Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ppk]

Assuming you're thinking wool gabardine and not cotton (?), then i am in the same boat as you!
I saw Bryceland's do a RTW trouser in cream wool gabardine, but at £500 they are a little over-expensive (you could go bespoke at that price!) so i'm keen to see other members' suggestions here, too.

Yes, wool. Completely agree on the cost. It's cheaper to do MTM or even bespoke.

Here's a list of wool cloth via @Sreezy36 (thank you).

heavy Wool:
1. https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/8422200-classic-woollen-flannel-white-solid
2. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/invincible/product/inv022dug14529/colour/cream_twill/page/271/
3. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/fearno...14425/colour/buttermilk_cream_twill/page/269/

light wool:
1. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-...am-gabardine/colour/cream_gabardine/page/264/
2. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18019/
3. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18049/

I have a suit in chocolate brown in the Dugdale Invincible and I love it. It looks and feels amazing. I might go with the Invincible cream twill, though it is not gabardine. It drapes beautifully.

 

[camez_]

the invincible twill is great - @BespokeBeirut had some made up in cream or buttermilk and they looked fabulous!

 

[jonathanS]

Yes, wool. Completely agree on the cost. It's cheaper to do MTM or even bespoke.

Here's a list of wool cloth via @Sreezy36 (thank you).

heavy Wool:
1. https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/8422200-classic-woollen-flannel-white-solid
2. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/invincible/product/inv022dug14529/colour/cream_twill/page/271/
3. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/fearno...14425/colour/buttermilk_cream_twill/page/269/

light wool:
1. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-...am-gabardine/colour/cream_gabardine/page/264/
2. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18019/
3. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18049/

I have a suit in chocolate brown in the Dugdale Invincible and I love it. It looks and feels amazing. I might go with the Invincible cream twill, though it is not gabardine. It drapes beautifully.

Bespoke for 500£? I suppose, but that doesn’t factor the flight to Napoli, Hotel, etc.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Bespoke for 500£? I suppose, but that doesn’t factor the flight to Napoli, Hotel, etc.

Or i could just walk to my tailor up the road..!

 

[ppk]

Bespoke for 500£? I suppose, but that doesn’t factor the flight to Napoli, Hotel, etc.

There are also traveling tailors who visit locally which minimizes travel costs.

 

[jonathanS]

There are also traveling tailors who visit locally which minimizes travel costs.

Yes. But 500£? Seems a little low. Maybe mtm. But not bespoke. Also I think, generally there’s a misnomer that bespoke is always better. When bespoke is on, it’s better. But when it’s not, you could make an argument rtw is better. And there’s less chance involved. It takes longer. Etc.

 

[ppk]

Yes. But 500£? Seems a little low. Maybe mtm. But not bespoke. Also I think, generally there’s a misnomer that bespoke is always better. When bespoke is on, it’s better. But when it’s not, you could make an argument rtw is better. And there’s less chance involved. It takes longer. Etc.

Good point. MTM can be great. I've done a few and every project has been amazing.

 

[camez_]

Bespoke for 500£? I suppose, but that doesn’t factor the flight to Napoli, Hotel, etc.

you can get bespoke trousers for 200 euro in Europe, it still exists. you just need to know where

 

[SilenceoftheSamz]

you can get bespoke trousers for 200 euro in Europe, it still exists. you just need to know where

So? Where?
I want such things

 

[kevinh]

Does anyone have a suit made in Drapers Ascot 4 ply in 18506? It's a brown and blind commissioned a suit in the color and wanted to see if anybody had some examples of it

 

[stubbsj20]

I'm looking to commission a heavy(ish) dark navy mock leno sportcoat. I already own a mock leno blazer in Minnis 510243 (the lighter navy) and I'm looking for something darker and heavier.

I'm between Smith's Finmeresco (SW4143 or SW4141) and Dugdale Tropicalair (4613 midnight or 4612 dark blue).

Can anyone comment on the differences between these and whether one is better than the other?

And does anyone have experience with the swatches referenced above in each? I can't tell the difference between SW4143 and SW4141 online. Also, is 4613 the proper dark navy in the Dugdale bunch, or is it close to black?

The background jacket is Minnis 510244. The color is similar to SW4141. To me, the Finmeresco feels crisper/drier when compared to the Minnis. (The picture was taken using natural window light on an iPhone.)

 

[Concordia]

I'm thinking about getting a pair of gabardine cream or ivory trousers made. Do folks have some suggestions for fabric? Thanks in advance.

Consider barathea instead. It will drape beautifully and be more tolerant of commercial pressing.

 

[mktitsworth]

Anybody got any good examples of gun clubs they'd like to share? I'm finishing up my latest commision and I've always wanted a gun club jacket.

 

[Andy57]

I received this beautiful, dark RAF Blue flannel from Hardy Minnis via @kolecho

As you would expect, it is a simply beautiful cloth and it will go straight to my tailor to be converted into a DB 4x1 suit in time for Winter Pitti.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

The background jacket is Minnis 510244. The color is similar to SW4141. To me, the Finmeresco feels crisper/drier when compared to the Minnis. (The picture was taken using natural window light on an iPhone.)

Thanks. Super helpful. So SW4143 is proper midnight and SW4141 is dark navy I guess.

I may just go with the Dugdale 4613 in the end. I had a look today and didn't find it to be too dark/black.