Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[kolecho]

I don’t think prices of Il Vecchio Drappiere are particularly high for most if their cloth. They have a warehouse in the center of Milan (in not in an inexpensive area btw), provide extremely good service and have some unique cloths you cannot find anywhere else. For the type of business they are vs merchants located in huddersfield with way lower overhead costs, I think they are priced ok. Similar prices as at M.Cilento. I visited last month and they had some vintage lengths from F. Caraceni that were butter.

My own experience some Italian cloth merchants is that Vecchio is overpriced compared to Cilento. I find Cilento's prices to be fair. The real bandit is Dario from Magnifique.

 

[jonathanS]

I agree to most of it.

Just to remind our fellows who reside in the US, that they are eligible to buy anything from IVD at ex-VAT prices, whereas residents of the EU cannot, and the prices of the site are the final ones only for the latter. Mind you, Italian VAT on such products is not negligible at 22%!

As far as M.Cilento is concerned, I knew nothing about them when I visited Naples some years ago, so I have no IRL experience, but from their site, narrative, etc, one has to be prepared for a visit equivalent to one to an upmarket jewellery shop...


Best,

Dimitris

That’s a good point. M cilento, their fabrics are pricey. But good

 

[hitsuji]

I'm looking to commission a heavy(ish) dark navy mock leno sportcoat. I already own a mock leno blazer in Minnis 510243 (the lighter navy) and I'm looking for something darker and heavier.

I'm between Smith's Finmeresco (SW4143 or SW4141) and Dugdale Tropicalair (4613 midnight or 4612 dark blue).

Can anyone comment on the differences between these and whether one is better than the other?

And does anyone have experience with the swatches referenced above in each? I can't tell the difference between SW4143 and SW4141 online. Also, is 4613 the proper dark navy in the Dugdale bunch, or is it close to black?

Have heard Dugdale tropicalair is
identical to Fox Air (allegedly weaved by the same mill) so I’d vote them. My tailor showed me the finmeresco but I didnt like it too much

 

[jonathanS]

Have heard Dugdale tropicalair is
identical to Fox Air (allegedly weaved by the same mill) so I’d vote them. My tailor showed me the finmeresco but I didnt like it too much

I’ve compared them side by side. I’m inclined to agree they appear the same. However, I’ve also been told that they wear differently. So I’m not 100% sure.

Also, fox air released new Fox air fabrics in patterns which are quite nice. I don’t think tropical air has those

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Have heard Dugdale tropicalair is
identical to Fox Air (allegedly weaved by the same mill) so I’d vote them. My tailor showed me the finmeresco but I didnt like it too much

Alright. I'll take a look at the darker Dugdale and if it's not too dark will use that. Otherwise I may have to order some finmeresco swatches.

 

[Connemara]

Is there a widely accepted "best" flannel suiting out there? I hear about Minnis, VBC, and Fox the most. I'm interested in a hard-wearing flannel that maintains a crease and shape as much as possible.

 

[hitsuji]

Is there a widely accepted "best" flannel suiting out there? I hear about Minnis, VBC, and Fox the most. I'm interested in a hard-wearing flannel that maintains a crease and shape as much as possible.

I haven't made it up but heard good things about Harrisons universal. Heavy weight Worsted flannel; I believe?

Heritage flannel from Fox looks good too

I’ve compared them side by side. I’m inclined to agree they appear the same. However, I’ve also been told that they wear differently. So I’m not 100% sure.

Also, fox air released new Fox air fabrics in patterns which are quite nice. I don’t think tropical air has those

I haven't compared them side to side. Unless someone here has made up both into something.
Fox Air seems to commission nicer designs to their partners it seems. Although I believe they are basically the same price to tailors (About half the price incl. VAT from Fox's online store)

 

[yanagi]

I'm looking to commission a heavy(ish) dark navy mock leno sportcoat. I already own a mock leno blazer in Minnis 510243 (the lighter navy) and I'm looking for something darker and heavier.

I'm between Smith's Finmeresco (SW4143 or SW4141) and Dugdale Tropicalair (4613 midnight or 4612 dark blue).

Can anyone comment on the differences between these and whether one is better than the other?

And does anyone have experience with the swatches referenced above in each? I can't tell the difference between SW4143 and SW4141 online. Also, is 4613 the proper dark navy in the Dugdale bunch, or is it close to black?

I have a DB in Minnis Fresco III 510244 and an SB in Dugdale Tropicalair 4612. I went with 4612 because I wanted a "bright" navy blazer together with the conservative, true navy 510244.

But in your case, if you want the opposite (darker), 4613 is definitely closer to black than "proper dark navy."

 

[wozniak]

(Deleted)

 

[ZRH1]

My own experience some Italian cloth merchants is that Vecchio is overpriced compared to Cilento. I find Cilento's prices to be fair. The real bandit is Dario from Magnifique.

also, I think the Degliuomini sisters own the shop, so apart from taxes (which can be high in Italy for such real estate), they have a very low overhead as the staff seems to be otherwise only from the Indian subcontinent. This being said, I think that they might today appear "cheap" as I feel post-Brexit some UK fabrics have massively increased in price, leading to the perception that VD is in line.

 

[ppk]

I'm thinking about getting a pair of gabardine cream or ivory trousers made. Do folks have some suggestions for fabric? Thanks in advance.

 

[CLH03]

Is there a widely accepted "best" flannel suiting out there? I hear about Minnis, VBC, and Fox the most. I'm interested in a hard-wearing flannel that maintains a crease and shape as much as possible.

Minnis for sure. Standeven Oxbridge is good at a little lighter weight

 

[hitsuji]

Has anyone commissioned a Dormeuil Tonik (400g) suit? Opportunity to grab a length in light gray/silver for a reasonable price

 

[multiccy-csa]

I'm thinking about getting a pair of gabardine cream or ivory trousers made. Do folks have some suggestions for fabric? Thanks in advance.

Assuming you're thinking wool gabardine and not cotton (?), then i am in the same boat as you!
I saw Bryceland's do a RTW trouser in cream wool gabardine, but at £500 they are a little over-expensive (you could go bespoke at that price!) so i'm keen to see other members' suggestions here, too.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I'm thinking about getting a pair of gabardine cream or ivory trousers made. Do folks have some suggestions for fabric? Thanks in advance.

Minnis and Drapers offer both wool gabardine. I prefer the colours of the Drapers but the Minnis feel more substantial.