Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Not a chance. Mid winter would be more appropriate. I do wish I was kidding fwiw.

-DL

Sarcasm conveyed poorly. I don't doubt that for a second. It's hardly even hot, and I've been sweating through linen (shirts) all week.

Damn near broke out in shivers when I woke up to sub-70 this morning

 

[DavidLane]

Sarcasm conveyed poorly. I don't doubt that for a second. It's hardly even hot, and I've been sweating through linen (shirts) all week.

Damn near broke out in shivers when I woke up to sub-70 this morning

Bad read on my part too. I will say it looks nice with denim and chambray.

-DL

 

[classicalthunde]

Received some flannel

View attachment 2225979

dude, how much did you get?! stocking up for the foreseeable future?

I received my trouser length order of grey yesterday and love it, looking forward to having it made up in Fall '25. Kind of a shame I have no need for a flannel suit...

 

[jessnie1987]

Hi folks, looking for a flannel like this that has really pale/faded stripes. Any recommendation which bunch I should be looking at?

 

[Despos]

They have very few vintage lengths if that's what your friend wants. Their English cloth offerings are expensive, which is typical for buying such cloths in Italy.

Store is closed for vacation.
looked at their website, prices were outrageously high.

 

[jonathanS]

Store is closed for vacation.
looked at their website, prices were outrageously high.

Yes, prices are wild - outrageously high, as you put it. That’s almost an understatement. But, they have some really nice stuff. Just depends on what you value.

 

[P-K-L]

dude, how much did you get?! stocking up for the foreseeable future?

I received my trouser length order of grey yesterday and love it, looking forward to having it made up in Fall '25. Kind of a shame I have no need for a flannel suit...

just 5.2 for myself, one suit and two extra trousers. the rest is for friends who do not have internet yet

 

[ZRH1]

Is there a store in Milan like Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers in Paris?

know of any shops to find cloth?

Asking for a friend who is in Milan this week.

Vecchio Drappiere is way better than LSD, at least some years ago when I went they had lots of incredible vintage cloth. I didn't quite like the story behind how they got them (bought by kg from closed tailor shops) and I found their markups a bit steep considering that, but given that for vintage quality cloth they where (are) unique, perhaps it makes sense.

On a side note, I liked VD as they show you the full length of the cloth. My experience with cloth samples, even the larger ones, say half a A4 page large, have the issue that once made up I feel they are different.

My favourite way of choosing cloth is from a tailor that has the full cut cloth, as then it can be draped over me to simulate the final result. I barely have any regrets with cloth bought this way, whereas with cloth bought from samples, I more often have.

 

[kid1002]

Would someone happen to have Dormeuil's 'Tonik Wool' bunch lying around?

Beams doesn't explicitly say this is from the Tonik collection, but I suspect this navy chalk stripe is in there somewhere...
https://www.beams.co.jp/item/beamsf/suit/21170340015/

 

[aristoi bcn]

I don’t think prices of Il Vecchio Drappiere are particularly high for most if their cloth. They have a warehouse in the center of Milan (in not in an inexpensive area btw), provide extremely good service and have some unique cloths you cannot find anywhere else. For the type of business they are vs merchants located in huddersfield with way lower overhead costs, I think they are priced ok. Similar prices as at M.Cilento. I visited last month and they had some vintage lengths from F. Caraceni that were butter.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I'm looking to commission a heavy(ish) dark navy mock leno sportcoat. I already own a mock leno blazer in Minnis 510243 (the lighter navy) and I'm looking for something darker and heavier.

I'm between Smith's Finmeresco (SW4143 or SW4141) and Dugdale Tropicalair (4613 midnight or 4612 dark blue).

Can anyone comment on the differences between these and whether one is better than the other?

And does anyone have experience with the swatches referenced above in each? I can't tell the difference between SW4143 and SW4141 online. Also, is 4613 the proper dark navy in the Dugdale bunch, or is it close to black?

 

[CLH03]

I'm looking to commission a heavy(ish) dark navy mock leno sportcoat. I already own a mock leno blazer in Minnis 510243 (the lighter navy) and I'm looking for something darker and heavier.

I'm between Smith's Finmeresco (SW4143 or SW4141) and Dugdale Tropicalair (4613 midnight or 4612 dark blue).

Can anyone comment on the differences between these and whether one is better than the other?

And does anyone have experience with the swatches referenced above in each? I can't tell the difference between SW4143 and SW4141 online. Also, is 4613 the proper dark navy in the Dugdale bunch, or is it close to black?

Just order the swatches. Dugdale are easy to get.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Just order the swatches. Dugdale are easy to get.

Fair point. It doesn't seem straightforward to get Smith's though?

 

[classicalthunde]

Fair point. It doesn't seem straightforward to get Smith's though?

Harrisons swatches aren't easy to get...I had to bug the US agent a couple of times to get some. My advice would be to request the swatches through your tailor

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I don’t think prices of Il Vecchio Drappiere are particularly high for most if their cloth. They have a warehouse in the center of Milan (in not in an inexpensive area btw), provide extremely good service and have some unique cloths you cannot find anywhere else. For the type of business they are vs merchants located in huddersfield with way lower overhead costs, I think they are priced ok. Similar prices as at M.Cilento. I visited last month and they had some vintage lengths from F. Caraceni that were butter.

I agree to most of it.

Just to remind our fellows who reside in the US, that they are eligible to buy anything from IVD at ex-VAT prices, whereas residents of the EU cannot, and the prices of the site are the final ones only for the latter. Mind you, Italian VAT on such products is not negligible at 22%!

As far as M.Cilento is concerned, I knew nothing about them when I visited Naples some years ago, so I have no IRL experience, but from their site, narrative, etc, one has to be prepared for a visit equivalent to one to an upmarket jewellery shop...


Best,

Dimitris