Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[oldworldelegance]

Hi, has anybody used Acorn shirt fabrics? Any thoughts on them?

 

[multiccy-csa]

Could anyone please suggest where I can find a dark brown/ ecru glen check cloth with a blue window pane, similar to this gentleman's sport jacket?
Looks merino (rather than tweed), 14/15oz-ish and quite a small repeat, and looks really good.
Fox do something similar, but not quite right.
Any suggestions please?
Thank you vm.
[Edit: think this cloth is by Kiton, but no idea where to source it and/or whether it's their own]

 

[WhereNext]

Could anyone please suggest where I can find a dark brown/ ecru glen check cloth with a blue window pane, similar to this gentleman's sport jacket?
Looks merino (rather than tweed), 14/15oz-ish and quite a small repeat, and looks really good.
Fox do something similar, but not quite right.
Any suggestions please?
Thank you vm.
[Edit: think this cloth is by Kiton, but no idea where to source it and/or whether it's their own]

Perhaps Standeven Oxbridge Flannel? Looks very similar to a cloth in that book I’ve been eyeing for a suit. It’s a worsted-woolen mix flannel and weighs 13 ounces, so sounds close to what you’re describing and is the same brown with blue over check pattern.

 

[CLH03]

Perhaps Standeven Oxbridge Flannel? Looks very similar to a cloth in that book I’ve been eyeing for a suit. It’s a worsted-woolen mix flannel and weighs 13 ounces, so sounds close to what you’re describing and is the same brown with blue over check pattern.

The glenesk bunch from Standeven also has something similar

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Could anyone please suggest where I can find a dark brown/ ecru glen check cloth with a blue window pane, similar to this gentleman's sport jacket?
Looks merino (rather than tweed), 14/15oz-ish and quite a small repeat, and looks really good.
Fox do something similar, but not quite right.
Any suggestions please?
Thank you vm.
[Edit: think this cloth is by Kiton, but no idea where to source it and/or whether it's their own]

Dear Sir,

You haven't mentioned season, please do so the next time that you're seeking suggestions.

If you're looking for a Spring/Summer-weight fabric, Caccioppoli is your friend; W/S/L at 240gr:

Best,

Dimitris


Edited to add:
If it is a Fall/Winter-weight fabric that you are after, the suggestion of our fellow above will fit the bill.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Perhaps Standeven Oxbridge Flannel? Looks very similar to a cloth in that book I’ve been eyeing for a suit. It’s a worsted-woolen mix flannel and weighs 13 ounces, so sounds close to what you’re describing and is the same brown with blue over check pattern.

Thank you, just popped to the tailor to see it. It's good, but too pale. The Kiton jacket is a dark brown, the Standeven is much paler.
But thank you for the suggestion.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Dear Sir,

You haven't mentioned season, please do so the next time that you're seeking suggestions.

If you're looking for a Spring/Summer-weight fabric, Caccioppoli is your friend; W/S/L at 240gr:

Best,

Dimitris


Edited to add:
If it is a Fall/Winter-weight fabric that you are after, the suggestion of our fellow above will fit the bill.

Thanks Dimitris, this is for Autumn/Winter. (I don't/can't wear a jacket in Summer!)

 

[WhereNext]

Thank you, just popped to the tailor to see it. It's good, but too pale. The Kiton jacket is a dark brown, the Standeven is much paler.
But thank you for the suggestion.

Fair enough. It’s always hard for me to tell in social media or “style” shoots actual colors and darkness because the lighting and processing can do weird things. CLH03’s suggestion above might be closer (I have looked at that book, but can’t remember if it’s much darker).

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thank you, just popped to the tailor to see it. It's good, but too pale. The Kiton jacket is a dark brown, the Standeven is much paler.
But thank you for the suggestion.

Thanks Dimitris, this is for Autumn/Winter. (I don't/can't wear a jacket in Summer!)

Dear @multiccy-csa,

You are welcome!

I haven't seen IRL the said Standeven offering, but there are occasions where tailors have in their atelier a different version of the current bunch; on-line, the fabric close to your query is cited as "Dark Brown" and it really looks like one! Mind you, it has a different code (19064) than the one in the posted image, and this is their site!

Luxury Lambswool/Cashmere Jacketing - British Cloth - 19064

Stock supported, cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 - the tailor's mill, weaving lambswool/cashmere cloth in England for luxury jackets.

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

Perhaps, requesting a sample directly from them?


Best,

Dimitris

 

[multiccy-csa]

Dear @multiccy-csa,

You are welcome!

I haven't seen IRL the said Standeven offering, but there are occasions where tailors have in their atelier a different version of the current bunch; on-line, the fabric close to your query is cited as "Dark Brown" and it really looks like one! Mind you, it has a different code (19064) than the one in the posted image, and this is their site!

Luxury Lambswool/Cashmere Jacketing - British Cloth - 19064

Stock supported, cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 - the tailor's mill, weaving lambswool/cashmere cloth in England for luxury jackets.

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

Perhaps, requesting a sample directly from them?


Best,

Dimitris

Thank you very much - yes, have seen this, but it is dark brown with black rather than dark brown with ecru (which obviously comes out much lighter) - but thank you.
I found this at the tailor's while flicking (can't recall the mill) and is close...but has a purple deco/window pane (rather than blue), which is a bit weird.
Anyone else any ideas?

 

[Connemara]

I ordered swatches from Fox so that I can see and handle the cloth before commissioning a jacket. This one caught my eye. It may be on the reddish end of the spectrum…it’s hard to tell on a screen, as always. But it’s intriguing. https://foxflannel.com/products/autumn-brown-prince-of-wales-check-tweed

This solid green tweed looks quite nice too. https://foxflannel.com/collections/fox-tweed/products/forest-green-twill-tweed

 

[jonathanS]

looking form opinions on this: what do you all think of a 10oz (300-320g) worsted for summer? It’s a London shrunk. Typically, I’d think of that type of fabric for shoulder season, maybe even winter. But, I drive to work in ac, & enter ac office.

The other day, I had a w. Bill Irish linen, and sweat so much because it was so heavy & it’s not like I was outside to take advantage of the breezy-ness of linen

 

[FlyingHorker]

looking form opinions on this: what do you all think of a 10oz (300-320g) worsted for summer? It’s a London shrunk. Typically, I’d think of that type of fabric for shoulder season, maybe even winter. But, I drive to work in ac, & enter ac office.

The other day, I had a w. Bill Irish linen, and sweat so much because it was so heavy & it’s not like I was outside to take advantage of the breezy-ness of linen

Honestly, I think CM is awful for summer. I ditched it for the summer months.

I realized no amount of fabric'ing around would change the fact I'm wearing multiple layers. It's insanity.

I also started wearing my "Summer suits" in winter time and feel a lot more comfortable.

 

[jonathanS]

Honestly, I think CM is awful for summer. I ditched it for the summer months.

I realized no amount of fabric'ing around would change the fact I'm wearing multiple layers. It's insanity.

I also started wearing my "Summer suits" in winter time and feel a lot more comfortable.

Oh 100%. In the summer, if you walk around outside with shorts and a tshirt, you will sweat and be gross.

I agree with you to a large extent about wearing summer suits in the winter (eg. Drapers ascot, I like to call it the perfect winter suiting fabric - if I’m too cold, I’ll put on a coat).

But the question is, a 10oz London shrunk worsted. Yes, peak summer, it’s probably too hot to walk around outside (what isn’t?) but is it manageable if you’re just going from car to office? And do you line it? Or half line? I suspect half line wouldn’t do much inasmuch as, the fabric doesn’t breath to begin with

 

[epsilon22]

Wouldn't ascot be too cold/breezy for the winter? I feel like the winds would murder my legs if I tried it.