Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[NewYorkIslander]



Looks fun! I wonder if 4 buttons might be better for that design. I also may make the bottom half of the lapel a bit wider, more like a pea coat. Speaking of pea coat, why not just go double breasted to make it uber warm?

4 Buttons might be the way to go. As far as peacoat, I've got a decent one I like already, and I think that the cloth will just be too warm (if you can imagine that)...thats how heavy it was.

NYR, I remember seeing you in a Phineas Cole overcoat in a post awhile back, which looked DOPE! However I'm sure it was very pricey...did you ever pull the trigger on it?

I was actually using that cut as the model for this bespoke piece, but the fabrics too thick for the fly front, so I think exposed buttons would not jive with the sleekness of the rest of the coat.

I like the look and prefer keeping my hands warm with straight pockets with flaps rather than slanted pockets.
Agree w/ Slewfoot that moar / smaller. Uttons might look better.
What sort of cloth? A thick melton?

The cloth is this super heavy piece made in England in the early 1930s. Real unique, I think its up further in the thread.

 

[Cantabrigian]



Overcoat:

Here's the styling (from Phineas Cole Fall 2012)

Asked for a lower button point (not much) and slightly lower peak lapels with roped shoulders. Fabric is Made in England, circa 1936, couldn't believe I found it. Weight is something like I've never felt before, heavier than anything I own or have ever handled. If I had to guess, i'd say it's well over 30oz.

I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

Are you going for something a little shorter than the Paul Stuart coat?

 

[GucciKid]

I'm looking for a tweed recommendation close to this fabric:

Any recommendations?

 

[RogerC]

Not tweed, but the Dugdale English Classics bunch has a 14oz fuzzy-finish brown houndstooth. Marling and Evans also has a few brown houndstooth patterns in their Lambswool Blend selection.

 

[Shirtmaven]

which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
and which one is $15 a shirt length

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Hundo on the right

 

[Cantabrigian]



which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
and which one is $15 a shirt length

It's easier to guess the cost of the camera than the cost of the cloth from that photo.

 

[Shirtmaven]

G C you are correct. the one on the left reminds me of the stuff i wore in high school from the family's army & Navy surplus store.
bought at the last remaining fabric store on orchard street. might even make one for myself.
we washed and dried it. it feels good.

Photo taken with my cell phone!

 

[emptym]

Ah, so the one on the right is the one you're making me from the old chambray you had lying around?

 

[Shirtmaven]



Ah, so the one on the right is the one you're making me from the old chambray you had lying around?

you will be much happier with the one on the left

 

[Slewfoot]

Anyone have any recommendations for a suiting fabric in a birdseye type pattern like GDL's below that breathes very well, but also drapes and holds its shape nicely? Probably around 12oz. Thinking a bright navy hopsack. I'd even be fine with the birdseye pattern being larger scaled.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

^ Dugdale Royal Classics (120z.) has a stunning navy birdseye.

 

[Slewfoot]



^ Dugdale Royal Classics (120z.) has a stunning navy birdseye.

Thanks! Is it somewhat like a hopsack in terms of breathability? Or are birdseyes in general similar to hopsacks in that regard? I just want anything too heavy since I'll generally be working in it. And when I say working that's not at a desk, but basically doing wine service and on my feet all the time which gets hot quickly.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

I'm afraid not - its a regular worsted, and not a hopsack. I don't believe I have ever seen a hopsack weave that incorporates a birdseye pattern, but perhaps someone else could chime in.

12oz. really isn't that heavy - maybe you could get it half-lined?

 

[Slewfoot]



I'm afraid not - its a regular worsted, and not a hopsack. I don't believe I have ever seen a hopsack weave that incorporates a birdseye pattern, but perhaps someone else could chime in.
12oz. really isn't that heavy - perhaps you could get it half-lined?

Yeah, I'd do half lining regardless most likely. I'll check out the book. You never know until you see it.