Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    9,960
    Likes Received:
    5,493
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    

    4 Buttons might be the way to go. As far as peacoat, I've got a decent one I like already, and I think that the cloth will just be too warm (if you can imagine that)...thats how heavy it was.



    I was actually using that cut as the model for this bespoke piece, but the fabrics too thick for the fly front, so I think exposed buttons would not jive with the sleekness of the rest of the coat.



    The cloth is this super heavy piece made in England in the early 1930s. Real unique, I think its up further in the thread.
     


  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

    Are you going for something a little shorter than the Paul Stuart coat?
     


  3. GucciKid

    GucciKid Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    I'm looking for a tweed recommendation close to this fabric:

    [​IMG]

    Any recommendations?
     


  4. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    Not tweed, but the Dugdale English Classics bunch has a 14oz fuzzy-finish brown houndstooth. Marling and Evans also has a few brown houndstooth patterns in their Lambswool Blend selection.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012


  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,371
    Likes Received:
    321
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
    and which one is $15 a shirt length[​IMG]
     


  6. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,815
    Likes Received:
    333
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien


  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    It's easier to guess the cost of the camera than the cost of the cloth from that photo. :D
     


  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,371
    Likes Received:
    321
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    G C you are correct. the one on the left reminds me of the stuff i wore in high school from the family's army & Navy surplus store.
    bought at the last remaining fabric store on orchard street. might even make one for myself.
    we washed and dried it. it feels good.

    Photo taken with my cell phone!
     


  9. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,502
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    Ah, so the one on the right is the one you're making me from the old chambray you had lying around? :)
     


  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,371
    Likes Received:
    321
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    
    you will be much happier with the one on the left
     


  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Anyone have any recommendations for a suiting fabric in a birdseye type pattern like GDL's below that breathes very well, but also drapes and holds its shape nicely? Probably around 12oz. Thinking a bright navy hopsack. I'd even be fine with the birdseye pattern being larger scaled.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,815
    Likes Received:
    333
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    ^ Dugdale Royal Classics (120z.) has a stunning navy birdseye.
     


  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    Thanks! Is it somewhat like a hopsack in terms of breathability? Or are birdseyes in general similar to hopsacks in that regard? I just want anything too heavy since I'll generally be working in it. And when I say working that's not at a desk, but basically doing wine service and on my feet all the time which gets hot quickly.
     


  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,815
    Likes Received:
    333
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    I'm afraid not - its a regular worsted, and not a hopsack. I don't believe I have ever seen a hopsack weave that incorporates a birdseye pattern, but perhaps someone else could chime in.

    12oz. really isn't that heavy - maybe you could get it half-lined?
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012


  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    Yeah, I'd do half lining regardless most likely. I'll check out the book. You never know until you see it.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by