Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Yay for gray donegal!
     


  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Yea - second to the blue blazer, that is the classic winter SC.
     


  3. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    119
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    Also, I have a length of mid grey/dark grey PoW Johnston cashmere with a blue overcheck that is as yet unfunded.
     


  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    That's definitely part of it.

    The other thing is that it's too sedate. Not enough interest in the grey (unlike a Donegal) and too soft (unlike a heavy tweed). The pattern is way too much for a suit butnot quite enough for a SC.

    I think Matt had posted (a long while ago) a cashmere SC that looked like TV static - I recommend something like that for cashmere.
     


  5. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,672
    Likes Received:
    6,127
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Gray is not the problem of that fabric.
     


  6. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    

    It's sometimes difficult to pair up a tie with a grey sportscoat and get some kind of congruence with your trousers. The contrast is usually too jarring.

    Looking back through some of my old posts in WAYWN I can see a few failed attempts. Difficult to explain but trousers and tie usually end up forming a "colour block". Does that make sense?

    I've found that dark grey Donegal tends to be a little easier to match up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2012


  7. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

    Messages:
    10,251
    Likes Received:
    4,458
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2008
    Location:
    The Old North State
    I understand that all won't like grey coats, and I accept that. I also appreciate the comments. So it seems, excluding those who categorically reject grey jackets, seem to not like it because of the light purple checks being a spring color but the cashmere being a winter/fall fabric?
     


  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,004
    Likes Received:
    19,357
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    That's my objection, yes. I think someone also thought it was too bold for a suiting and not bold enough for an odd jacket. I don't think I agree with that.
     


  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    There isn't enough contrast. Lite grey with white and pale lilac all gets washed out.

    To put it another way, what will you pair it with? Dark grey or navy pants will overpower the jacket and make it look even more like a solid (and I don't think anyone could love a solid grey SC).

    So you're left with white / cream (or lilac if you're into matching like that...). That will look pretty good but it's distinctive enough to be an 'oh, you're wearing that again' sort of outfit.

    I think you'd get ore mileage out of a grey flannel suit with a white windowpane. Or even an SC like this that permanent style highlighted--

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v5M7NtPKnZA/UFHh91w5uYI/AAAAAAAADns/Q0-apoxOlIU/s1600/ps-f12_p7.jpg

    From
    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/09/paul-stuarts-wondrous-autumn-colours.html

    But I'm boring to a fault and even if I weren't, my opinion won't and shouldn't diminish your enjoyment of that SC-to-be.
     


  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,895
    Likes Received:
    8,132
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009


  11. Dib

    Dib Senior member

    Messages:
    198
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    

    Do you have details of the fabric in the first picture, on right? It looks fantastic.
     


  12. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    9,940
    Likes Received:
    5,456
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    Looking for some thoughts on this:

    I had originally planned to do my winter overcoat s/b, peak lapel, fly front and hacking pockets with a ticket. I just got a call, and my tailor said that the fabric was so thick, that a fly front would not look clean on it. So, I was thinking something like this instead:

    [​IMG]

    It will be cut as a casual coat, to be worn without a sport jacket underneath...
     


  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Looks fun! I wonder if 4 buttons might be better for that design. I also may make the bottom half of the lapel a bit wider, more like a pea coat. Speaking of pea coat, why not just go double breasted to make it uber warm?
     


  14. tlfactor

    tlfactor Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 19, 2011
    NYR, I remember seeing you in a Phineas Cole overcoat in a post awhile back, which looked DOPE! However I'm sure it was very pricey...did you ever pull the trigger on it?
     


  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    I like the look and prefer keeping my hands warm with straight pockets with flaps rather than slanted pockets.

    Agree w/ Slewfoot that moar / smaller. Uttons might look better.

    What sort of cloth? A thick melton?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by