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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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  2. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Details and pics?
     
  3. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Is rangoon just a lightweight worsted or does it have high-twist fibers like fresco? I've heard of the fabric, but never had a chance to see it
     
  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Lt worsted
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a book of pretty standard tropical weight patterns for business suits. No patterns or colors out of the ordinary, but very well executed especially if that's the texture you like.
     
  6. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    So Will's got some Riva cotton-linen shirtings, and they are ridiculously expensive at almost $300 for cloth for one shirt. Nevertheless, any thoughts on their quality and longevity, especially compared to SIC Tess, which is cheaper and more available? I've seen shirts made from it a few years ago, but they were being worn, so I couldn't exactly go and feel it up.
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Didn't foo's end up shredded pretty quickly?
     
  8. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I remember that but I don't remember if it was the cloth that died or the construction.
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    AY,

    I have 3-4 Riva shirts (2 of which are cotton / linen). While the cloth is certainly nice, I never found it to be worth the significant upcharge vs. SIC Tess, G&R etc. $300 for just the cloth is very steep, and I wouldn't be tempted at half the price.

    ET
     
  10. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    How do you figure $300 per shirt? Isn't it 3 yards at $50 per yard?
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, no, the construction is still perfectly intact. No loose or broken stitches--astoundingly.

    The cloth is what died. Awful (beyond the realm of sprezzatura) fraying at the edges and points of the collars and cuffs. On all 20 or so shirts. I will never buy Riva shirting again. The mystique dies after you have to live with it.

    That said, my Riva is 100% cotton. Maybe the blend is more durable? No idea.
     
  12. quar

    quar Senior member

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    It was the fabrics. Riva Cotton Twill and Poplin.

    AY, what about G&R? I just had Ascot Chang CMT some Cotton-Linen from them for me. Great stuff and much cheaper than Riva and DJA.
     
  13. badsha

    badsha Senior member

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    +1. If you want to go fancy try the G&R Sole Oro cotton/linen. Some of their most expensive fabric. The other G&R cotton/linen is the Zevi.

    Sole Oro Blue C/L

    [​IMG]

    Top to bottom - Alumo Supraluxe 120/2, G&R Sole Oro 170/2, Alumo Salvatore Triplo 160/3

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    +2 on the G&R - love the stuff!
     
  15. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Oops my mistake. At $50 per 1/2 yard, the price is outrageous.
     
  16. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestions and info, guys. Given Foo's experience with it, and the exorbitant price, it's too much for a fun experiment. My local shirtmaker does carry G&R, and I'll have to check that out the next time I'm down there. I'm pretty happy with the SIC Tess cotton/linens, and they are pretty hard-wearing.
     
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Wait, you had your tailor order your fabrics from G&R, and they charged you CMT?
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    ^ Doesn't read that way to me at all. I think he's saying that he had AC make up the GR fabrics that he brought to them.
     
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    And it is 90 cm wide rather than the usual 150 cm wide. That's why you need 3 meters per shirt rather than the typical 2 meters. Last time I spent $100/yard on shirting was for Loro Piana 100% cashmere from Tip Top which I thought was pricey. Well, that is until I got to Charvet where sky's the limit.:fu:
     
  20. quar

    quar Senior member

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    I ordered from G&R, and get G&R to deliver direct to Ascot Chang. Ascot Chang have no issues with that arrangement.
     

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