Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:

Fox Military Issue Midnight

Fox Military Issue Midnight CODE: CT24 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating The set of the cloth is taken from Fox's extensive historic, military archive. This classic dark navy cloth will look splendid made in to British Reefer or classic duffle coat. Heavily set weighing 30/31...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox's Great Coat

Fox's Great Coat CODE: CT25 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Miles of this cloth was woven by Fox Brother's to dress our soldiers in The Great War. Commemorating it's centenary, this cloth using the original recipe where there is no compromise in ingredients, as used 100...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox Natural Slate Twill

Fox Natural Slate Twill CODE: CT19 WEIGHT: 760/790 grm (27/28oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Fox Brother's 100% Lambswool twill in charcoal, olive and straw. This cloth has a natural, closer to loom state finish. With a more country feel this cloth will look superb teamed with solid brown brogues...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

agreed, I have a 30oz USN pea coat and that thing has held up against a tough Maine winter

 

[Spaghettimatt]

How heavy do you want to go?

Not sure how to answer that. 300-400g?

I already have a summer Mockleno in 510243, which is 280/310 and a bright navy. I'm looking for something heavier and darker in color for year-round use that is more conservative.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Just ordered a length of the Taylor and Lodge archive blazer in a dark navy hopsack and am pretty pleased with it, has some heft to it and a nice texture

Thanks! I'll order a swatch and compare with the Fox Sport hopsack.

 

[yanagi]

Not sure how to answer that. 300-400g?

I already have a summer Mockleno in 510243, which is 280/310 and a bright navy. I'm looking for something heavier and darker in color for year-round use that is more conservative.

I have a brown serge DB from the Bateman Ogden Apollo book (415/430g). It has a dark navy in hopsack, serge, and barathea.

 

[camez_]

i have the navy hopsack on hand. dm if you want pics

 

[reidd]

Speaking of Bateman and Ogden, has anyone seen or used their Juno book? They are tropical weight suitings which may not sound that interesting but the color range is really good.

Bateman & Ogden - Juno

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

 

[Baked Potato]

Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:

Fox Military Issue Midnight

Fox Military Issue Midnight CODE: CT24 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating The set of the cloth is taken from Fox's extensive historic, military archive. This classic dark navy cloth will look splendid made in to British Reefer or classic duffle coat. Heavily set weighing 30/31...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox's Great Coat

Fox's Great Coat CODE: CT25 WEIGHT: 840/870 grm (30/31 oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Miles of this cloth was woven by Fox Brother's to dress our soldiers in The Great War. Commemorating it's centenary, this cloth using the original recipe where there is no compromise in ingredients, as used 100...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Fox Natural Slate Twill

Fox Natural Slate Twill CODE: CT19 WEIGHT: 760/790 grm (27/28oz) TYPE: Fox Overcoating Fox Brother's 100% Lambswool twill in charcoal, olive and straw. This cloth has a natural, closer to loom state finish. With a more country feel this cloth will look superb teamed with solid brown brogues...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

The first midnight one looks great. So you'd think it work as a chesterfield/covert coat, without looking too out of place as the fabric is rather heavy (just under 1kg)? I saw that they had one in navy too, that's just a tad bit lighter. Might prefer that as midnight looks nearly black.

I'll check with my MtM place if they can order the fabric.

EDIT: Seems like I've found a whole new world checking out Fox's website. I thought I'd be rather bound to the fabric swatches I've seen, but if they'll let me order fabrics outside their regular range, then I'll probably go crazy ordering new stuff.

Might I also ask where to look for I searching for camel fabrics suitable for overcoats? The fabric sample I was shown was around 490g, which is rather light.

 

[bjhofkin]

Thanks! I'll order a swatch and compare with the Fox Sport hopsack.

Love the T&L archive blazer and probably prefer it to the Fox – but it's definitely on the heavy side, not a summer blazer. The Fox is light and open enough for warmer weather, albeit not as much so as a mock leno or whatnot.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Love the T&L archive blazer and probably prefer it to the Fox – but it's definitely on the heavy side, not a summer blazer. The Fox is light and open enough for warmer weather, albeit not as much so as a mock leno or whatnot.

Got it, thanks. So Fox is more of an all-season? It works for both winter and summer?

 

[Fad P]

The first midnight one looks great. So you'd think it work as a chesterfield/covert coat, without looking too out of place as the fabric is rather heavy (just under 1kg)? I saw that they had one in navy too, that's just a tad bit lighter. Might prefer that as midnight looks nearly black.

I'll check with my MtM place if they can order the fabric.

EDIT: Seems like I've found a whole new world checking out Fox's website. I thought I'd be rather bound to the fabric swatches I've seen, but if they'll let me order fabrics outside their regular range, then I'll probably go crazy ordering new stuff.

Might I also ask where to look for I searching for camel fabrics suitable for overcoats? The fabric sample I was shown was around 490g, which is rather light.

Cacciopolli have a 530g pure camel that’s really nice. But not a big difference from the 490 one you’ve seen.

Or check Standeven:

28020 Camel Plain – Standeven Fabrics

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www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

Never seen that one IRL however.

 

[bjhofkin]

Got it, thanks. So Fox is more of an all-season? It works for both winter and summer?

I guess it depends on what you mean by *working* for winter.

On the one hand it's definitely a very open-weave and relatively lightweight hopsack. So in a technical sense, the Fox Sport hopsacks are definitely warm-season cloths – even if they're not the absolute lightest-weight you can find.

But would I actually find myself getting COLD wearing it in cooler weather? Probably not, unless it's cold enough to wear a coat – in which case, you know, you'd be wearing an overcoat. 😂

And in terms of aesthetics, it's definitely substantial enough not to look odd in cooler seasons.

 

[classicalthunde]

I love in the northeast USA and frequently find myself in the colder New England areas.

The T&L hopsack is 420g/m and is intended to be a 3-season blazer for Fall/Winter/Spring. I'm leaning toward machine stitched swelled lapels, patch and flap hip pockets, and a patch breast pocket.

I have a lighter Caccioppoli hopsack that is 280g/m that I use for late Spring/Summer/early Fall and is made up in an Italian style (open patch pockets, spalla camicia, etc)

 

[ericgereghty]

I love in the northeast USA and frequently find myself in the colder New England areas.

The T&L hopsack is 420g/m and is intended to be a 3-season blazer for Fall/Winter/Spring. I'm leaning toward machine stitched swelled lapels, patch and flap hip pockets, and a patch breast pocket.

I have a lighter Caccioppoli hopsack that is 280g/m that I use for late Spring/Summer/early Fall and is made up in an Italian style (open patch pockets, spalla camicia, etc)

In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.

 

[classicalthunde]

In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.

I'm shooting for a more sport-y blazer look, like these examples below. I think its been a pretty common traditional American style since the mid-20th century.

 

[hpreston]

In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.

I think "welted" breast pocket is the term you're looking for?

On that note, patch hip pockets (with or without flaps) and welted chest pocket is a classic look.

I'm shooting for a more sport-y blazer look, like these examples below. I think its been a pretty common traditional American style since the mid-20th century.

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This can work too. I particularly like Daniel's blazer (first pic). If you're going trad, then go all the way!