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classicalthunde

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Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:


agreed, I have a 30oz USN pea coat and that thing has held up against a tough Maine winter
 

Spaghettimatt

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How heavy do you want to go?
Not sure how to answer that. 300-400g?

I already have a summer Mockleno in 510243, which is 280/310 and a bright navy. I'm looking for something heavier and darker in color for year-round use that is more conservative.
 

yanagi

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Not sure how to answer that. 300-400g?

I already have a summer Mockleno in 510243, which is 280/310 and a bright navy. I'm looking for something heavier and darker in color for year-round use that is more conservative.

I have a brown serge DB from the Bateman Ogden Apollo book (415/430g). It has a dark navy in hopsack, serge, and barathea.
 

reidd

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Speaking of Bateman and Ogden, has anyone seen or used their Juno book? They are tropical weight suitings which may not sound that interesting but the color range is really good.

 

Baked Potato

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Yeah I'd be looking at these Fox vintage military reproduction patterns:


The first midnight one looks great. So you'd think it work as a chesterfield/covert coat, without looking too out of place as the fabric is rather heavy (just under 1kg)? I saw that they had one in navy too, that's just a tad bit lighter. Might prefer that as midnight looks nearly black.

I'll check with my MtM place if they can order the fabric.

EDIT: Seems like I've found a whole new world checking out Fox's website. I thought I'd be rather bound to the fabric swatches I've seen, but if they'll let me order fabrics outside their regular range, then I'll probably go crazy ordering new stuff.

Might I also ask where to look for I searching for camel fabrics suitable for overcoats? The fabric sample I was shown was around 490g, which is rather light.
 
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bjhofkin

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Thanks! I'll order a swatch and compare with the Fox Sport hopsack.
Love the T&L archive blazer and probably prefer it to the Fox – but it's definitely on the heavy side, not a summer blazer. The Fox is light and open enough for warmer weather, albeit not as much so as a mock leno or whatnot.
 

Spaghettimatt

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Love the T&L archive blazer and probably prefer it to the Fox – but it's definitely on the heavy side, not a summer blazer. The Fox is light and open enough for warmer weather, albeit not as much so as a mock leno or whatnot.
Got it, thanks. So Fox is more of an all-season? It works for both winter and summer?
 

Fad P

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The first midnight one looks great. So you'd think it work as a chesterfield/covert coat, without looking too out of place as the fabric is rather heavy (just under 1kg)? I saw that they had one in navy too, that's just a tad bit lighter. Might prefer that as midnight looks nearly black.

I'll check with my MtM place if they can order the fabric.

EDIT: Seems like I've found a whole new world checking out Fox's website. I thought I'd be rather bound to the fabric swatches I've seen, but if they'll let me order fabrics outside their regular range, then I'll probably go crazy ordering new stuff.

Might I also ask where to look for I searching for camel fabrics suitable for overcoats? The fabric sample I was shown was around 490g, which is rather light.

Cacciopolli have a 530g pure camel that’s really nice. But not a big difference from the 490 one you’ve seen.

Or check Standeven:
Never seen that one IRL however.
 
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bjhofkin

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Got it, thanks. So Fox is more of an all-season? It works for both winter and summer?
I guess it depends on what you mean by *working* for winter.

On the one hand it's definitely a very open-weave and relatively lightweight hopsack. So in a technical sense, the Fox Sport hopsacks are definitely warm-season cloths – even if they're not the absolute lightest-weight you can find.

But would I actually find myself getting COLD wearing it in cooler weather? Probably not, unless it's cold enough to wear a coat – in which case, you know, you'd be wearing an overcoat. 😂

And in terms of aesthetics, it's definitely substantial enough not to look odd in cooler seasons.
 

classicalthunde

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I love in the northeast USA and frequently find myself in the colder New England areas.

The T&L hopsack is 420g/m and is intended to be a 3-season blazer for Fall/Winter/Spring. I'm leaning toward machine stitched swelled lapels, patch and flap hip pockets, and a patch breast pocket.

I have a lighter Caccioppoli hopsack that is 280g/m that I use for late Spring/Summer/early Fall and is made up in an Italian style (open patch pockets, spalla camicia, etc)
 

ericgereghty

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I love in the northeast USA and frequently find myself in the colder New England areas.

The T&L hopsack is 420g/m and is intended to be a 3-season blazer for Fall/Winter/Spring. I'm leaning toward machine stitched swelled lapels, patch and flap hip pockets, and a patch breast pocket.

I have a lighter Caccioppoli hopsack that is 280g/m that I use for late Spring/Summer/early Fall and is made up in an Italian style (open patch pockets, spalla camicia, etc)
In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.
 

classicalthunde

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In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.

I'm shooting for a more sport-y blazer look, like these examples below. I think its been a pretty common traditional American style since the mid-20th century.

Tailor Caid Trad Blazer 1.JPG


tailor caid tweed.jpg


trad ex 1.jpeg
 

hpreston

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In how I'm envisioning it, triple patches w/two flapped pockets seems awkward to me. I think I'd be more inclined to a straight (is that the right term?) breast pocket.

I think "welted" breast pocket is the term you're looking for?

On that note, patch hip pockets (with or without flaps) and welted chest pocket is a classic look.

I'm shooting for a more sport-y blazer look, like these examples below. I think its been a pretty common traditional American style since the mid-20th century.

View attachment 1862161

View attachment 1862162

View attachment 1862164

This can work too. I particularly like Daniel's blazer (first pic). If you're going trad, then go all the way!
 

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