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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Marshak

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Thanks. I designed a travel jacket with my tailor to fit my needs how I want. It’s not a sport coat and I don’t care if it’s shapeless, bags or anything else. I asked about the jersey knit suggestions for on purpose.
Don't know if it's what you're looking After but Antonio made a jacket in this insane wool jersey fabric from Ariston . It gave an impressive effect. Very louch and textured. Surely perfect to sleep in during a flight.

IMG_20221005_092024.jpg
 

fabricateurialist

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Those with dinner jackets...midnight versus black? Why opt for the former? Is it more interesting, even if it reads formal? Curious how you would describe the difference or why one for you was more appealing, aesthetically.
got a dinner jacket made from Zegna's Trofeo in midnight blue, personally I found blue to have more depth in evening/low light settings, it has a lushness that black fabrics cannot replicate - also, staff will often wear black these days as opposed to white, witnessed this just recently at a ball and it made for some amusing interactions
 

double00

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Thanks. I designed a travel jacket with my tailor to fit my needs how I want. It’s not a sport coat and I don’t care if it’s shapeless, bags or anything else. I asked about the jersey knit suggestions for on purpose.
idk what the garment is ( now i'm curious if you don't mind can you describe ? ) but you could also think about something like a synchilla fleece ( which is more or less a napped knit ) , or maybe find a wool fleece that is similar if you want a natural fiber ... maybe also a terry could work here .
 

Jmr928

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idk what the garment is ( now i'm curious if you don't mind can you describe ? ) but you could also think about something like a synchilla fleece ( which is more or less a napped knit ) , or maybe find a wool fleece that is similar if you want a natural fiber ... maybe also a terry could work here .
If you’re familiar with the Flusser slack jacket it’s adjacent to that as a starting point
483F5115-174A-4367-A490-1802B2EC0524.jpeg


But then we came up with some tweaks to make it my own with regard to the style and make and incorporate some of my tailors style into it.

We also modified the details to make it more practical for my intended use and drew some additional inspiration from a travel sport coat I use most often on short trips abroad.
 

BlueSteel

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All the talk of green last week inspired me to order this to make a sport coat with, not sure on yeh details maybe three patch pockets 1/2 lines going to give it some thought now that I have the cloth
Looks like a heavier and more upscale version of this one from Spier & Mackay:

 

Concordia

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Re Flusser: https://alanflusser.com/product-profiles/the-slack-jacket

I've found a shirtmaker in London willing to make something like the unlined Teba jacket/shirt from Spain, sold from time to time by Fox.


Essentially, she copied the one I bought from Fox and added an inch or so on the chest.

Similar idea as the Flusser, and I now have summer and fall weights largely covered. Time now to think about winter fabrics that won't be too heavy and won't stick to shirt sleeves.
 
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JHWilliams

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Those with dinner jackets...midnight versus black? Why opt for the former? Is it more interesting, even if it reads formal? Curious how you would describe the difference or why one for you was more appealing, aesthetically.
this is Midnight blue smith woolens under the lights. I think it looks pretty darn black!
 

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bernoulli

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I had a DB in a similar fabric and donated it last year. The large-scale houndstooth looks tacky IRL and I couldn't get past the ugly contrast (of course, to my eyes).

And regarding a tax, here is my midnight blue under artificial light in the evening.

IMG_E2226.jpg IMG_2819.jpg IMG_2893.jpg

I believe @Burzan actually had the identical fox cloth made up using S&M's MTO:

 

emptym

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@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:
IMG_2416.jpeg

I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:
IMG_2419.jpeg


I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.
 

Bespoke DJP

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@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:
View attachment 1840848
I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:
View attachment 1840850

I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.

Something like this, save the windowpanes?

1665122674029.png




Best,

Dimitris


PS
Its full herringbone width is 2.4cm, a proper jacketing herringbone size!
 

Sreezy36

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@Jmr928, I second @Marshak's Ariston rec. At least, a few years ago when I had a jersey jacket made, they had a good selection.

Back to my quest for a brown tweed with overcheck, I received a few samples from the Harris Tweed Shop:
View attachment 1840848
I was mainly interested in the Sumburgh. It turned out lighter and warmer than I'd prefer. Though it is very nice, as are all the swatches they sent.

But I decided to order the undyed grey/brown from Yorkshire, shown here in the middle:
View attachment 1840850

I'd been wanting a cool, dark brown herringbone with a subtle blue and red overcheck for a while, but I think this will get more wear.
something like this? Although it is a cashmere tweed
DFC8C11F-C15A-425D-8BD7-CAC64A6C1497.jpeg
 

calypso

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Hi,
does anyone here have experience with W.Bill's Donegal? I'm thinking of making a jacket out of it for my next project.
It looked and felt amazing but I was a bit surprised by how heavy it was.
 

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classicalthunde

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Hi,
does anyone here have experience with W.Bill's Donegal? I'm thinking of making a jacket out of it for my next project.
It looked and felt amazing but I was a bit surprised by how heavy it was.
Just ordered a jacket in the dark green tweed (#34623) from Hemrajani, waiting for it to come in a couple of weeks! The navy blue tweed was a close second choice.

Seems to be a nice medium ground between heavy and rugged Harris Tweeds and the lighted Shetlands, I was surprised how porous it was when I held it up to the light
 

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