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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

bdavro23

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Here are two DBs I have from separate tailors. The green I think has a good buttoning point, and while I like that tan I think it's probably too high. Thoughts?
View attachment 1839474 View attachment 1839475
I'd agree with your assessment and I remember seeing the green blazer before. I think it looks good on you and you wear it well. Hard to tell in that pose, but I'd guess you could probably lower the green as well and help bring a little better balance to it.

The tan I would lower a full 2 inches on you. On DBs a buttoning point not far above the top of the trousers is a reasonable starting point. A lot of it depends on the shape of the lapels and how high the overlap is because that largely defines the visual weight of the jacket. A high buttoning point typically makes people look bottom heavy as theres so much jacket beneath the buttons. Lowering the buttoning point rebalances the jacket and elongates the lapel, which visually broadens the upper half of the jacket and slims the hip.
 

Concordia

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I advise my clients to steer away from waistcoats. Doubly so if they are under 40 as its very difficult to not have it come across as an affectation at this point. I also dont think it would solve the issue if he is slightly thick through the middle. The higher rise can be an issue as well, rather than a cure depending on the person. A lot of times guys with a bit of a belly will end up wearing the trousers under their stomach and the higher rise will actually contribute to things fitting worse and bunching up at the crotch.

Lots of variables here and as always, you are buying the fitter. Best of luck!
He does a lot of swing dancing, so a waistcoat would be a good possibility for dressing down and getting a bit cooler while staying dressed.

And braces will be obvious additions to the trousers. He's not actually dumpy-- just has enough of a love handle that he's not ripped, and feels self-conscious about that. Trousers that go up to the navel and stay there will allow the jacket to do its job in making him look elegant.
 

Concordia

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Fearnought is a lovely suiting cloth (no cavalry twill, though). However, the colors were very disappointing, so I’ve only had one grey suit made up.

Dugdale Invincible has some lovely cavalry twills in multiple weights (but nothing holds a candle to LL QUCT, in my opinion.
Thinking of doing the light navy (steel blue, not quite RAF) from the Fearnought book.

QUCT is very good, but much woollier than normal CT. There is plenty of room for the other kind.
 

Sreezy36

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Here are two DBs I have from separate tailors. The green I think has a good buttoning point, and while I like that tan I think it's probably too high. Thoughts?
View attachment 1839474 View attachment 1839475
the tan DB is definitely higher with more overlap as well. I prefer the tan on you.
As far as a buttoning point I believe that it depends on a lot of variables such as: lapel shape, lapel width, gorge height, and button overlap. The button stance is something that you have to play around with and may vary depending on the cut of the garment.
 

Marshak

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Thinking of doing the light navy (steel blue, not quite RAF) from the Fearnought book.

QUCT is very good, but much woollier than normal CT. There is plenty of room for the other kind.
What is QUCT? It sounds like a SM term.
 

reidd

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Edwin Woodhouse 6ply Dark Navy for a double breasted jacket. Gold buttons or normal horns? Being made by Zizolfi for a proper Neapolitan doppio petto.
Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?
 

camez_

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Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?
you can buy it from taylor and lodge. it still is produced

for a proper naval db blazer i would recommend something more like cav twill / heavy weight serge
 

Crispyj

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Tough decision. Gold would be great as long are you are happy to lean into the very nautical/preppy connotations. I have gold buttons on a single bested blazer and I love it but in DB, the look will be even more extreme. Not that that's a bad thing. Horn will blend in more and tone down the overall blazery effect.

Out of curiosity, what's the weight of that Woodhouse 9ply and how did you come across it?
you can buy it from taylor and lodge. it still is produced

for a proper naval db blazer i would recommend something more like cav twill / heavy weight serge
I don't recall the T&L 6ply feeling the same as the vintage Edwin Woodhouse 6ply. Woodhouse 6ply feels probably 550-600grams? It was available through Gianluca / Zizolfi.

PXL_20220517_201600751.jpg _0040_WoolPly_BL394_C3.jpg
 

reidd

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I confirm it's the same. Edwin Woodhouse is a subbrand of T&L. Their 6ply is impressive but a bit rough compared with the one of Draper's/VBC.
Possibly. Although unless I am badly mistaken, the Edwin Woodhouse mill is not longer in operation. The brand may still exist under T&L and the product might be mostly the same, but it is certainly made in a different plant at minimum.
 

Crispyj

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T&L 6ply feels dryer than Draper's 6ply and slightly more heavy. The vintage Edwin Woodhouse 6ply feels like a 12ply compared to Drapers 6ply
 

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