Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

Could start a new thread, but this group will be on the answer faster. Is there a MTM outfit that can be trusted to do long rise pleated trousers and a waistcoat for a 3-piece? Daughter's fiance isn't badly built but feels self-conscious about not being rail-thin, so she thinks that a waistcoat will hide the goods usefully. And a good jacket on top will further reduce stress.

 

[ericgereghty]

Could start a new thread, but this group will be on the answer faster. Is there a MTM outfit that can be trusted to do long rise pleated trousers and a waistcoat for a 3-piece? Daughter's fiance isn't badly built but feels self-conscious about not being rail-thin, so she thinks that a waistcoat will hide the goods usefully. And a good jacket on top will further reduce stress.

You're in Europe somewhere, right? I'd imagine Steed would do the job well. If in the States, Divij Bespoke is plenty good and flexible. My favorite trousers (and going back for more now that actual office life beckons for '23) are from him/MyTailor.

 

[Concordia]

Prospective son-in-law is in Minneapolis. Will pass along the MyTailor rec.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Prospective son-in-law is in Minneapolis. Will pass along the MyTailor rec.

I can’t recommend any of the local MTM guys in Minneapolis.

If travel is an issue - I convinced Sartoria Pastena to add Minneapolis to their trunk show schedule - They’ll be back sometime this winter.

If travel isn’t an issue - Steed hits Chicago as does Divij.

 

[Concordia]

Pastena doesn't mention travel on their website. How many times a year do they get to the US? Any quirks or QC issues that plague them?

 

[fabricateurialist]

Just out of curiosity, what is it that you didn’t like about the Foxair?

it felt incredibly rough in comparison to others - maybe it was the batch ?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Pastena doesn't mention travel on their website. How many times a year do they get to the US? Any quirks or QC issues that plague them?

It’s relatively new to them and their website is meh. They hit Milan and Paris with some regularity. They just started adding the US in May. He visited Minneapolis in May and then July.

He’s back in the US this weekend and next week trying out New York then LA but not Minneapolis this time. I expect he’ll be back in January to hit MSP, NYC and LA and then probably again April-ish.

Quirks: Neapolitan. It’s a slightly longer/fuller Neapolitan cut compared to some of the other young Neapolitans (but still short and with a high gorge by SF standards). His trousers aren’t my favorite - That would be my biggest knock on him but after an in person fitting and some guidance we got across the finish line.

QC issues I’ve heard of are mostly along the lines of asking for something different from his normal cut and it not going far enough type deal. Requests for a lower gorge where it gets lowered but not as much as the person wanted, longer jacket but wasn’t long enough, etc. As far as I know (small sample size of what I’ve seen from guys on here and the 15 IRL friends I got to try him in May) anyone who had an issue had their concerns addressed and Antonio has been receptive and eager to make sure everyone was happy. The make itself is very neatly done.

I think Pastena has fit a pretty diverse batch of bodies that I’ve seen from SF guys. I’d expect Steed to be the safer bet for a one-and-done if Chicago is doable. I think they’re there tomorrow though so not sure when they’ll be back. Wish I had more options to suggest but Minneapolis is a bit of a desert when it comes to trunk shows. Divij does have Minneapolis on their list but no dates so I’m not sure what they have coming. I know they visit Chicago.

 

[JHWilliams]

Have heard good things, but likely going to opt for the beefier stuff. Will inquire when I go get sized up.

For better or worse, pants are not what comes to mind when I say that aloud
That said, what is the weight of those? I want to say I recall them in the ~15oz range.

I was going to say Harrison's P&B, but I guess that one fell by the wayside. I recall someone (was it @JHWilliams ?) touting Dugdale's Fearnought book.

Is the process still the same (read: arduous) getting an account set up at LL? I had one once upon a time, but I guess it fell off when they changed servers or whatever it was Michael did with the update.

Fearnought is a lovely suiting cloth (no cavalry twill, though). However, the colors were very disappointing, so I’ve only had one grey suit made up.

Dugdale Invincible has some lovely cavalry twills in multiple weights (but nothing holds a candle to LL QUCT, in my opinion.

 

[JHWilliams]

Answering for the heavyweight worsted range, since the offering is very limited in this area and the current trend is dominated by effeminate midweight cloths.

Dugdale's Fearnought is trendy: old fashioned sturdy cloth at 18 Oz/500 gr/m. Colors lack a bit of depth. I have a suit in the dark navy herringbone I'm very fond of.

Harrison's P&B: same beast with deeper colors but insane prices (my tailor was quoted 160 euros/m).

Fearnought color definitely lacks depth. However, it is still a lovely cloth!!

P&B Universal:
I just had two double breasted suits made from the back of the book (19/20 ounces-I have attached photos). I have my final fitting this month. The cloth is a beast with amazing drape. Traditional English dry handle (beautifully woven)

I will definitely order from this book again.
Now, if we could only get Fox Bros. to bring back the Alden Collection.

 

[bdavro23]

Gonna get tailor started tomorrow on a 6x2 DB suit in Fox City glencheck with red deco as such tomorrow:

View attachment 1838423

Thoughts on ticket pockets on DB suits? I never have before - I'm a large person and generally feel like my DB jackets have enough going on. Alternate viewpoints?

Just make sure they lower the buttoning point at least an inch from your SB pattern. That seems to get overlooked alarmingly frequently these days when people get DBs made.

 

[bdavro23]

Could start a new thread, but this group will be on the answer faster. Is there a MTM outfit that can be trusted to do long rise pleated trousers and a waistcoat for a 3-piece? Daughter's fiance isn't badly built but feels self-conscious about not being rail-thin, so she thinks that a waistcoat will hide the goods usefully. And a good jacket on top will further reduce stress.

I advise my clients to steer away from waistcoats. Doubly so if they are under 40 as its very difficult to not have it come across as an affectation at this point. I also dont think it would solve the issue if he is slightly thick through the middle. The higher rise can be an issue as well, rather than a cure depending on the person. A lot of times guys with a bit of a belly will end up wearing the trousers under their stomach and the higher rise will actually contribute to things fitting worse and bunching up at the crotch.

Lots of variables here and as always, you are buying the fitter. Best of luck!

 

[Crispyj]

Edwin Woodhouse 6ply Dark Navy for a double breasted jacket. Gold buttons or normal horns? Being made by Zizolfi for a proper Neapolitan doppio petto.

 

[ValidusLA]

Just make sure they lower the buttoning point at least an inch from your SB pattern. That seems to get overlooked alarmingly frequently these days when people get DBs made.

Here are two DBs I have from separate tailors. The green I think has a good buttoning point, and while I like that tan I think it's probably too high. Thoughts?

 

[bdavro23]

Here are two DBs I have from separate tailors. The green I think has a good buttoning point, and while I like that tan I think it's probably too high. Thoughts?
View attachment 1839474 View attachment 1839475

I'd agree with your assessment and I remember seeing the green blazer before. I think it looks good on you and you wear it well. Hard to tell in that pose, but I'd guess you could probably lower the green as well and help bring a little better balance to it.

The tan I would lower a full 2 inches on you. On DBs a buttoning point not far above the top of the trousers is a reasonable starting point. A lot of it depends on the shape of the lapels and how high the overlap is because that largely defines the visual weight of the jacket. A high buttoning point typically makes people look bottom heavy as theres so much jacket beneath the buttons. Lowering the buttoning point rebalances the jacket and elongates the lapel, which visually broadens the upper half of the jacket and slims the hip.

 

[Concordia]

I advise my clients to steer away from waistcoats. Doubly so if they are under 40 as its very difficult to not have it come across as an affectation at this point. I also dont think it would solve the issue if he is slightly thick through the middle. The higher rise can be an issue as well, rather than a cure depending on the person. A lot of times guys with a bit of a belly will end up wearing the trousers under their stomach and the higher rise will actually contribute to things fitting worse and bunching up at the crotch.

Lots of variables here and as always, you are buying the fitter. Best of luck!

He does a lot of swing dancing, so a waistcoat would be a good possibility for dressing down and getting a bit cooler while staying dressed.

And braces will be obvious additions to the trousers. He's not actually dumpy-- just has enough of a love handle that he's not ripped, and feels self-conscious about that. Trousers that go up to the navel and stay there will allow the jacket to do its job in making him look elegant.