• We are thrilled to welcome Capra Leather to the Styleforum family of official Affiliate Vendors.They are a hand crafted, made to order leather goods family company. Their products have unique designs with a aesthetic that blend minimalism, tradition and functionality. Focused on sustainability they offer a lifetime warranty on every piece.

    Give Capra a warm welcome on their Official Affiliate Thread

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

reidd

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
984
Reaction score
909
The proportions are off on this suit. Large lapels and flap pockets with skimpy gauntlet cuffs, sleeves, and pants. No thank you.
The cut is actually quite good and I like the lapels. But alas, flaps to the ruin once again. Luckily they can just be tucked into the pockets so no real problem. The turn back cuffs are not my favorite but would probably look better if the pockets were jetted. Turnback cuffs always tough to really nail.
 

SimonC

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
2,356
Reaction score
2,270
The lapel width would conventionally support some extravagance, but the buttoning point means they are truncated and whilst wide their overall area is insufficient. The cuffs are forgivable, but it’s the depth of the pocket flaps rather than their angle that stands out as lacking proportionality.
 

ericgereghty

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2013
Messages
6,861
Reaction score
10,202
Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.
 

te0o

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2020
Messages
704
Reaction score
2,488
Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.
Holland & Sherry Dakota bunch. Got a 13oz cav twill and it's been a good performer, nice colours there as well.
 

brax

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
2,211
Reaction score
2,549
linens? I also have a pair of LP trousers in “summertime” or something like that which are super light and cool on hot days
I really enjoy wool/linen blends for hot days. Leave out the silk.
 

brax

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
2,211
Reaction score
2,549
Do y'all have particular books you seek out for Cav Twills?
Looking at W. Bill, Standeven, and various Dugdales. Preferences amongst those books?
Horribly impractical, but would be fascinating to try Dugdale's "Keeper Tweed' as a pair of trousers.
It’s all in the name: QUCT
 

fabricateurialist

Senior Member
Joined
May 12, 2022
Messages
106
Reaction score
63
Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance
 

brax

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
2,211
Reaction score
2,549
Why leave out the silk?
Add a bit of sheen that I don’t want in trousers. And also adds a bit of warmth. When DWW replicated a raw silk suiting, he left out all silk. Seems a bit incongruous but it worked.
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2019
Messages
2,045
Reaction score
6,334
Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance
I have a suit in the light gray 11oz (27030) and it's a fantastic fabric. But it's pretty coarse, which takes a little getting used to. Drapes well and is very wrinkle resistant and breathable.
 

Sreezy36

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
452
Reaction score
558
Has anyone experience with Standeven's Explorer bunch ? specifically the "heavier" 10oz 27034 et al

I have a few Zegna High Performance ones, but am I'm looking for a high twist cloth that's not as light as 8oz, got some Fox Air samples in the mail but that wasn't it - so hit me with suggestions/pros and cons of other mills

thank you all in advance
Just out of curiosity, what is it that you didn’t like about the Foxair?
 

Featured Sponsor

What do you normally wear on Mondays at work?

  • Suit, shirt, and tie

  • Suit and shirt, no tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, jacket or sport coat, tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, jacket or sport coat, no tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, no tie or jacket

  • Casual trousers and shirt (polo, t-shirt, etc.)


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
483,617
Messages
10,290,599
Members
216,307
Latest member
BostownMA
Top