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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

classicalthunde

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I'm currently in upstate New York, looking to move to northern Virginia in the next year or so. I suppose I'm looking for something that I can handle most days of the year, but sturdiness and drape are more important to me than being able to wear it comfortably on a hot summer day.
Maybe check out Lovat Bard 3-ply high twist, its similar to Drapers Ascot and Finmeresco. Would be good for hot and humid VA

I think that Lovat is a mill that Frank typically works with…
 

hpreston

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Are you looking for something in a year round weight? What is your climate?

Fox Air is sturdy as Hell, but is extremely scratchy on the legs. I wouldn’t be able to wear it.
I'm currently in upstate New York, looking to move to northern Virginia in the next year or so. I suppose I'm looking for something that I can handle most days of the year, but sturdiness and drape are more important to me than being able to wear it comfortably on a hot summer day.
I have two suits in Fox Air, while it certaly not soft and smooth like flannel, I never notice while wearing it, it’s perfectly comfortable to me. Note, trousers are half lined to the knee. It is definitely sturdy, holds a crease well, and stays relatively cool on all but the hottest days.
 

Crispyj

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Can someone identify this fabric?

Fox Tweed maybe?

View attachment 1795655
I think it's this one. I saw it at the trunkshow.
I can ask to confirm for you if you'd like.
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Hi everyone! I'm very new here, getting my first ever bespoke suit started with Frank Shattuck. He thought I should take a look at Fox Air or Standeven Explorer. I'm liking the look of the Standeven 27031 DARK GREY PLAIN (11oz / 310gms), but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has thoughts about the fabric?

This would basically be my only suit (for now). I don't need a suit for work, but I'd be wearing it for my brother's wedding, maybe for a job interview, and whenever I can find an excuse (weddings, date nights, symphony concerts, etc.).
I'm awaiting a suit in the light gray 11oz Explorer (27030) that should be ready this weekend. From what I've felt so far it's a super resilient fabric and drapes beautifully. I'll report back after wearing the final product.
 

kolecho

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Hi everyone! I'm very new here, getting my first ever bespoke suit started with Frank Shattuck. He thought I should take a look at Fox Air or Standeven Explorer. I'm liking the look of the Standeven 27031 DARK GREY PLAIN (11oz / 310gms), but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has thoughts about the fabric?

This would basically be my only suit (for now). I don't need a suit for work, but I'd be wearing it for my brother's wedding, maybe for a job interview, and whenever I can find an excuse (weddings, date nights, symphony concerts, etc.).
Fox Air drapes much better than Standeven Explorer. See if you can find Dormeuil Tonik Wool. It's similar in weight and drape to Fox Air but a bit less scratchy.

Lovat Bard is a lot warmer to use compared to the above and had some pilling issues with it. At that weight, I'd try out Drapers Ascot 4 ply. Much smoother, more airy and none of the pilling issues that came with Bard. The Scots are great with tweed but less so with warm weather cloths.
 

JHWilliams

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Fox Air drapes much better than Standeven Explorer. See if you can find Dormeuil Tonik Wool. It's similar in weight and drape to Fox Air but a bit less scratchy.

Lovat Bard is a lot warmer to use compared to the above and had some pilling issues with it. At that weight, I'd try out Drapers Ascot 4 ply. Much smoother, more airy and none of the pilling issues that came with Bard. The Scots are great with tweed but less so with warm weather cloths.
I think it’s time for another run of Rangoon!!! Perhaps a plain weave navy or medium grey!!!
 

Marshak

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Gents, welcoming tips for the following;

1. Mid-grey woolen flannel suiting, around 350-400 grams (aside from the obvious ones i.e. Fox, VBC etc.)

2. Navy wool (hopsack or similar) for a sports coat, around 300-350 grams, hard wearing/ solid wrinkle resistance.

Many thanks
I ordered a 3 patched sport coat in the BlueFeel dark navy hopsack from Drago. It's crispy, dry, very airy, heavily textured and it has some technical values as being stain and liquid repellent.

Screenshot_20220517-211517__01.jpg
 

Concordia

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Are you looking for something in a year round weight? What is your climate?

Fox Air is sturdy as Hell, but is extremely scratchy on the legs. I wouldn’t be able to wear it.
Line the front of the trousers.
 

LittleDab

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I'm awaiting a suit in the light gray 11oz Explorer (27030) that should be ready this weekend. From what I've felt so far it's a super resilient fabric and drapes beautifully. I'll report back after wearing the final product.
Oh that's great! I'd be very interested in hearing what you think of it
 

JHWilliams

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Line the front of the trousers.
I usually do. I have the heaviest fresco in the bunch for a two piece suit. It wears like iron, but I hate wearing it. Bespoke commissions should be a pleasure to wear, in my opinion. I tip my hat to anyone with legs of steel who can tolerate the fox air or traditional scratchy fresco.
 

Concordia

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The 15oz Fresco takes some getting used to. But the 9-10 when lined is a very different animal, as rustic as it can look relative to fine tropical worsteds.
 

Polo Collar

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I ordered a 3 patched sport coat in the BlueFeel dark navy hopsack from Drago. It's crispy, dry, very airy, heavily textured and it has some technical values as being stain and liquid repellent.
IMG_0258.jpg


Ordered a jacket in Drago Bluefeel this year as well, with triple patch pocket and swelled edges.
 

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