Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    the 20 difference is VAT, which you can get out of, but I can't ;)
     
  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Ahhh yes. But I guess we do pay for shipping so it almost balances out anyway when I think about it!
     
  3. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    +1:happy:
     
  4. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Can anyone steer me in the right direction in regard to the following:

    1.) Best weight wool for a 3 season navy sportcoat. Super 120's? 10oz? I want another go to workhorse.
    2.) Best weight for a Prince Of Wales fall/winter DB. Does thread count matter here?

    There is a local shop here that I am planning to use for my first MTM commission to be executed by Samuelsohn based on the fact their Globe and Gable coats fit about 90% correctly OTR. I considered buying off the rack and doing alterations (as I have done on my current Sammys jackets) but I want a wider lapel and to improve the fit of the chest & sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012
  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Can you actually change the size of the lapel with MTM? I remember talking to Samuelsohn folks and they said that it was not possible..
     
  6. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Yes, I believe it is only a 40.00 charge. That is what I was told by a trusted friend who carries their brand exclusively @ his shop. I believe he consulted with his Sammy rep on the subject prior to letting me know.
     
  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    - I try to stay away from super numbers. Some of the best books don't have super numbers, and the fabric will be more durable. If the coat is going to be a workhorse, that might be worth considering. Also: where do you live? Texas 10 months isn't Vermont 10 months. For a temperate climate, I'd be looking at 12oz at least, as heavier wool drapes better and therefore looks better.

    - For the winter, I'd consider flannel. A flannel PoW DB is a timeless classic, and Fox does a great PoW with a blue and red overcheck.
     
  8. Renton

    Renton Senior member

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    I had a sportcoat made this spring with larger lapels. It took Samuelsohn two tries to get the details right, but I eventually got what I asked for.
     
  9. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Yeah, I'd say 11-12 oz would be most versatile for the former.
     
  10. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Thanks for the tips. I'm in Boston soon to be NYC, so perhaps a 12 oz would in fact work? I want something tough but still refined enough to wear as an odd jacket with proper trousers @ more casual meetings and such. I could go flannel POW, or go with a three season blend on the DB also. I am still building my wardrobe. Thoughts on something in a three season weight?
    Nice. Would you mind pming me a photo of it? I will likely start with the globe as a base. Any tips that would maximize my chances of things working out on the first try?
    Ah ok. So main point, weight and drape rules of thread count. I figured a super 100 might work.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2012
  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I don't think I've ever bought a fabric base on Super count. Not because I'm against it, but just that the more unique fabrics out there don't seem to follow that rule.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    100's is not thread count but references the diameter of the yarns used to weave the cloth. It is related to the micron count measurement of the size of the threads.

    Quality supers are just as durable as any other cloth but there are many variables to make a cloth of quality. Not all cloths are created equal.
     
  13. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Any particular wool you would endorse for the navy coat I am looking to do?
    Got it. Any tips you might be able to offer based on my points listed above? Looking for a 11-12oz navy work horse.
     
  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    You should take a look at the H.Lesser 13 oz and 11/12 oz books. My HL 13 oz are what I would call "workhorse" suit fabrics
     
  15. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Thank you!
     

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