Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    youre probably thinking too much about it if youre torn between spring and autumn.
     


  2. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Yes it is reviera. I wonder its cheaper due to quality or if it's really on discount.

    Also, Is it hard for a tailor to match checks fabric when it's thin? Im pretty new to this bespoke process
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  3. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Hah you're right..i've been spending quite some times looking at fabric sites
     


  4. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    It was 50+ pounds per meter IIRC. And you are right, it is difficult to control the fabric if it is thin.
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I have a minnis flannel 0300 suiting that I would like to sell, pm if there is interest. It is 4 meters.

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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  7. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Lychyrychy
    HFW were discontinuing riviera and it was heading out at 17 GB pounds per metre. In my opinion, not the best offering from HFW and they do have a few very respectable horses in the stable and I am not sorry to see it go. They had a suiting which they also discontinued that is going at a discount what is left called crown classic and it makes up beautifully and performs well. 340 g 11 1/2 -12 oz 100's and cashmere.If you decide on spring for you Riviera,get your tailor to use a lightweight canvas and if autumn.. I can't believe I am saying the F word but I would probably Fuse the riviera rather than a canvas front as this would give it some strength and the ability of moisture to travel through the garment that a canvas gives will be less necessary in the autumn so it may benefit from this, bearing in mind the compromise of less shape in the chest with fuse. If I get a vote, I would recommend spring.
    Ronald Regan was wearing a HFW clotth called Rangoon when he was shot. I hope you have better luck with your HFW cloth.
    Go well
    Brendon
     


  8. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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  9. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    I'd like to offer a contrary opinion. I have one jacket in Riviera and like it very much. It obviously doesn't have the body of a 16oz Cheviot, but I wear very warm, and the Riviera gets me through the shoulder season very well. The designs, on the whole, were very good as well. In fact,if anyone has a length of it left, I might be very interested.

    That said, you may also consider the Glorious 12th from Porter and Harding, which has a couple of beautiful Gun Club checks as well, or the Worsted Alsport from Hardy's. Both are a bit heavier but they are beautiful cloths.
     


  10. TTO

    TTO Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Heavy navy linen and leftover herringbone tweed.
    [​IMG]
    Superfine worsted, grey pick & pick (?) with a crimson overcheck.
    Eventually the worsted will be made up in a three-piece, the linen I plan on making my own trousers and waistcoat with (when I start sewing again) and may even attempt some sort of jacket?
     


  11. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Thank you both for your insightful knowledge.

    Brendon: was the riviera cloth selling at even lower price than 17GB at one point? I must have missed out on that. HFW is selling it at 28GB right now and I thought it's a pretty decent deal. I think my perception of cloth prices is skewed since I'm still trying to gain adequate experience in buying suit/jacket clothes.

    RogerC: thanks for introducing me to the Glorious 12th, I will be evermore less productive at work for the next few hours! haha.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Riviera is decent cloth and would guess I've made 50 jackets in this cloth since it was introduced. There are variations of weaves and textures through the book and I prefer some over others but overall I would use any cloth in the book. Cloth has good body for the 8.5 ounce weight and the colors and patterns were good. It's not a luxe type of cloth, pretty basic but I wouldn't say it is thin and I haven't had problems with it shifting. Of all the jackets we made, never had a complaint and many reordered from the book.

    And Brendon, Reagan was wearing a 100% cashmere suit on that occasion, not Rangoon.
     


  13. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    HI Despos
    are you sure about that? You may be right? But I was shown a letter in rhe HFW JJ Minnis showroom in Berwick St London from Ron Regan's PA or tailor, can't remember which ( almost a decade ago) after more cloth but wanting for one of his favourite suits as a surprise to him. If you are dealing direct with them they will be able to confirm this better I am sure. I am in London in September and will ask again if I remember that is if they have new rooms yet? Last year not.
    As for Riviera, I have not made 50 and I won't be . HFW have some lovely cloths and I prefer others than Riviera. If a client is buying a sports coat then I am more likely to get them in to a 100's on that weight. my reason for comment was on the few occasions I used it I found it shifted a bit. However you get what you pay for and that cut length is at the lower end . So no complaints really. I live in a country where sheep outnumber people 8 to 1( used to be 20 to 1) ,so here's to them.
    Go well
    Brendon
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    His tailor was a friend of mine and I would visit him 2 or 3 times a year around that time period. On one visit while hanging around his shop he shows me a cashmere suit he is making and said it is the replacement suit for President Reagan. Said President Reagan wanted the same suit remade. That's all I know.

    Riviera isn't the best cloth in the world but it's much better than other cloths in that weight range. I think it is easy to tailor, holds a press well and travels well. I have a couple jackets for myself from this book. Wouldn't discourage anyone from wearing this cloth.
     


  15. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Mariani of Beverly Hills?

    http://books.google.com/books?id=C1kvsToagGEC&pg=PA36&hl=en

    The shooting happened in March, so wearing cashmere seems more likely than a tropical wool such as Rangoon.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2012


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