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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Bespoke DJP

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A couple informational questions Re double-sided overcoating cloths:

- Apart from the optionality of using one side or the other, are there any *other* perks/uses of a double-sided cloth?

- So long as both colors are either dark or light, are there any *downsides* of a double-sided cloth (other than forcing one to have to make a tough decision)?


Not something within your chosen Ulster territory, but one may use a double-sided overcoating cloth for a double-face balmacaan overcoat.

Otherwise, you just use the internal color in lieu of lining.

Best,

Dimitris
 

bjhofkin

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Not something within your chosen Ulster territory, but one may use a double-sided overcoating cloth for a double-face balmacaan overcoat.

Otherwise, you just use the internal color in lieu of lining.

Best,

Dimitris
Very interesting – especially considering a bespoke Balmacaan from Caid is the other coat I'm planning at the moment…
 

brax

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A couple informational questions Re double-sided overcoating cloths:

- Apart from the optionality of using one side or the other, are there any *other* perks/uses of a double-sided cloth?

- So long as both colors are either dark or light, are there any *downsides* of a double-sided cloth (other than forcing one to have to make a tough decision)?
I’ve been thinking of something like this:
E8403578-51CC-4E0C-B07D-9B04A86512B4.png
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Not something within your chosen Ulster territory, but one may use a double-sided overcoating cloth for a double-face balmacaan overcoat.

Otherwise, you just use the internal color in lieu of lining.

Best,

Dimitris
I’ve been thinking of something like this:
View attachment 1737665
Don't think you need a double-faced cloth for that, and if you used one, no one would know that it's double-faced. The inside and outside of a coat are made from separate pieces of cloth, which are then folded over on the edge and stitched together.

I don't know the answer to @bjhofkin's original question. I've also sometimes wondered why mills don't weave a double-faced cloth more often. If it doesn't change the set-up time, then presumably they can sell through a bolt quicker.
 

brax

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Don't think you need a double-faced cloth for that, and if you used one, no one would know that it's double-faced. The inside and outside of a coat are made from separate pieces of cloth, which are then folded over on the edge and stitched together.

I don't know the answer to @bjhofkin's original question. I've also sometimes wondered why mills don't weave a double-faced cloth more often. If it doesn't change the set-up time, then presumably they can sell through a bolt quicker.
Probably not necessary but certainly a better option. Why stitch two pieces together on the seams when you can use one integrated piece?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Probably not necessary but certainly a better option. Why stitch two pieces together on the seams when you can use one integrated piece?
I think you need something to hide the structure inside. Otherwise, the fabric will drape like a cape.

Perhaps @Despos can clarify and answer @bjhofkin's original question (what are the upsides and downsides of using a double-faced cloth).
 
Last edited:

Bespoke DJP

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Don't think you need a double-faced cloth for that, and if you used one, no one would know that it's double-faced.

I really do not understand your first remark. So, you are saying that one can create a double-face garment without using a double-face cloth?

Us, as end customers we do not need to care about any "separate pieces of cloth folded over..." notion, as - in CMT cases - all we do is buy the whatever double-faced cloth of our liking! Nothing more, nothing less.

About your second remark,..., who cares? One would end up having two distinct garments from one piece of cloth, one tailor's commission, and a single cost!

Best,

Dimitris
 

Bespoke DJP

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Ermenegildo Zegna RTW wool-blended double-faced raglan coat; this is actually a raincoat, but the basic design of a raglan balmacaan overcoat is practically the same:

1642330456993.png


1642330495818.png


1642330524645.png


Best,

Dimitris
 

Bespoke DJP

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And two very nice double-face WO-WS overcoating fabric options, not suitable for quasi-arctic conditions:

1642331080835.png


1642331114972.png


Best,

Dimitris
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I really do not understand your first remark. So, you are saying that one can create a double-face garment without using a double-face cloth?

Us, as end customers we do not need to care about any "separate pieces of cloth folded over..." notion, as - in CMT cases - all we do is buy the whatever double-faced cloth of our liking! Nothing more, nothing less.

About your second remark,..., who cares? One would end up having two distinct garments from one piece of cloth, one tailor's commission, and a single cost!

Best,

Dimitris
When you look at your coats, the inside and outside of the lapels (or the front edge, if your coat doesn't have lapels) are made from separate pieces of cloth. This is what people pinch when they do the "pinch test."

In the photo you posted, that coat is made from two pieces of material. I don't think you would be able to create that design if that was a double-faced fabric. It may be that the coat is made with double-faced fabrics, but no one would know.
 

JHWilliams

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anyone have experience with these 19/20 ounce cloths from P & B Universal?

I am strongly considering three double breasted suit commissions.

Any experience with drape, cloth handle?
 

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corpseposeur

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anyone have experience with these 19/20 ounce cloths from P & B Universal?

I am strongly considering three double breasted suit commissions.

Any experience with drape, cloth handle?
I have a pair of trousers in P&B Universal. I think the fabric I have is 18oz. It's a great cloth, feels bulletproof and very substantial and warm in the colder months. It drapes very well, no shine whatsoever, and my trousers have kept a great line after about a year of use. It's exactly what one expects for a robust heavyweight British cloth.

However I would say they're probably best suited for colder weather.
 

ericgereghty

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anyone have experience with these 19/20 ounce cloths from P & B Universal?

I am strongly considering three double breasted suit commissions.

Any experience with drape, cloth handle?
Those things would outlive you, in all likelihood. I’ve seen the lighter weight stuff made up, and they are hardcore in their own right. I’d expect the heavier weight feels like armor.
 

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