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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks guys!

    KJ - look at the Donegals from W. Bill and Molloy if you can. Good stuff.
     
  2. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Can anyone recommend a good waterproof fabric for making into a trench coat?
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Molloy + Sons has some great navy donegals. Priced reasonably as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Eustace, where do you see swatches of the donegals?
     
  5. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Bookster has some. Molloy also has a Flickr gallery with stock tweeds.
     
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Thank you RogerC. Much appreciated.
     
  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    The only time I've seen one done bespoke was in Corvato's shop. He said he took a regular cotton drill and Scotchguarded it.

    I asked how waterproof it was and he just shrugged his shoulders.

    Maybe the Loro Piana storm system farbics? Though I've never seen those in a book, only made up as RTW coats.

    Given that they usually have raglan sleeves, I'm not sure a trench coat is the sort of thing that really lends itself to bespoke. Certainly not at a price similar to that of a canvassed coat with set in shoulders.
     
  8. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    How about Ventile? It is cotton and very weatherproof. It can be purchased directly from the factory. It comes in a variety of weights and colours. It is all but waterproof when its in double form. Only drawback is that it is difficult to hand sew. It also requires a specific thread and double lapped seams. But, it will last forever, is relatively light, breathes and is also windproof.
     
  9. KayJay85

    KayJay85 Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice on Donegals
    I visited the respective websites and the images are limited so if anyone has a recommendation other than going to source (which I hope to do with W Bill in Jan) please do chime in
     
  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is awesome stuff. I have it on a non-bespoke Invertere jacket.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Interesting. Did you buy direct from their website? If so, what weight / color?
     
  12. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Corvato actually made a topcoat for me out of LP Storm System cashmere. It has set shoulders and looks and performs very well, especially in the rain. I got the cloth from Tip Top, which also used to carry a similar fabric from Zegna.

    Ventile is great but I've only seen it sold as stand-alone fabric a couple of times over the years.
     
  13. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Barbour, Lost World and Orvis also have sold items made out of ventile. Ebay and ebay uk usually list a few ventile pieces.
     
  14. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Grenfell cloth also served much the same purpose as ventile.
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Looks like it comes in a nice selection of colors.

    This one could make a cool, though somewhat different, raincoat--

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012
  16. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    I wonder if they sell retail to the public.
     
  17. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    But yea...

    I still can't see a reason to bespokify a trenchcoat.
     
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Yes, but I was wondering if I could buy the cloth direct from the website and provide it to my tailor.

    The Cinnamon is a bit aggressive for my taste - the Stone looks quite nice.
     
  19. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It was NOS . . .from my Invertere museum
     
  20. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    I believe you can buy directly from them; they have a contact form on the website. In the U.S., Wiggy's sells Ventile directly but he has a limited selection of colours. I have purchased from him before. Just call him and he usually answers the phone.

    http://www.wiggys.com
     

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