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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

WhereNext

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any recommendations for a mid-weight (10-13oz) mid-grey sharkskin cloth? I'm open to both wool or a wool-mohair mix but want to avoid it being too shiny for a work setting...

looking for something along the lines of this:
View attachment 1713540

View attachment 1713541
I got a couple of swatches recently from H&S in grey sharkskin that I quite liked (had a hard time choosing) from their Target, Intercity, and Cape Horn books that would all fall in your description of weight and look.
 

Concordia

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And Minnis, and several others. Dormeuil (Very expensive, perhaps for no reason)?

I recently located a dark blue sharkskin suit that was made over 20 years ago and barely worn. I think it came before business school, and between different locales, different jobs, and changes (ahem!) in size, I never got around to wearing it. Probably Golden Bale, and gorgeous! In my UK closet now, in case I find reasons to dress up in London without going as far as black tie.
 

dieworkwear

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Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


gettyimages-179360677-2048x2048.jpeg
gettyimages-769106065-2048x2048.jpeg
gettyimages-980694196-2048x2048.jpeg
gettyimages-769105865-2048x2048.jpeg
 
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kolecho

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Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


View attachment 1715395 View attachment 1715394 View attachment 1715399 View attachment 1715396
Try Caccioppoli also. They have Irish linen and I find they understand colours better than English merchants.
 

FlowableFill

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Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


View attachment 1715395 View attachment 1715394 View attachment 1715399 View attachment 1715396
Solbiati art du lin?
 

ZMEH

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Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


View attachment 1715395 View attachment 1715394 View attachment 1715399 View attachment 1715396
Hey Derek,

Perhaps the Oyster colour in Spence Bryson's Tropical in case you missed it? It appears light beige on their website but IRL it's the "yellowest" white linen I've seen amongst the usual suspect mills. Pictured middle one in between White and Light Grey. Hope this helps!

IMG_1945.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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Try Caccioppoli also. They have Irish linen and I find they understand colours better than English merchants.
Solbiati art du lin?
Hey Derek,

Perhaps the Oyster colour in Spence Bryson's Tropical in case you missed it? It appears light beige on their website but IRL it's the "yellowest" white linen I've seen amongst the usual suspect mills. Pictured middle one in between White and Light Grey. Hope this helps!

View attachment 1715522
Thanks, everyone! All of these are promising leads.

I must have missed that tropical linen from Spence Bryson. Do you know how to order a swatch of that in the United States?
 

Wren

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Thanks, everyone! All of these are promising leads.

I must have missed that tropical linen from Spence Bryson. Do you know how to order a swatch of that in the United States?
The one from art du lin is not as yellow, more like whipped cream than thickened cream :-D, even though it's still a nice colour.

Let us know when you find the right colour!
 

FlowableFill

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Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.
I haven't. I saw this video from the Armoury and the cloth seemed nice, so I put it on my list. I'll definitely get a swatch of it before I pull the trigger. The Armoury made a suit out of it and they said it turned out good fwiw.
 

ZRH1

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Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.
yes, I confirm. Definitely too light.

EDIT: this seems to be heavier than the W. Bill stuff as it is over 400gr. Am I wrong?
 
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Wren

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yes, I confirm. Definitely too light.

EDIT: this seems to be heavier than the W. Bill stuff as it is over 400gr. Am I wrong?
Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.
I think it is heavier. I saw a fellow customer in a pair of trousers made from the art du lin. It hangs very well. But it doesn't feel as robust as W.Bill despite the weight, so it's difficult to tell its durability.
 

The Chai

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Anyone ever had a dress shirt made with a raglan shoulder? Curious to test it out
 

ericgereghty

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I have a suit in the Art du Lin. Have only worn it a few times, so can’t speak to bagging/durability thoughts, but the above is mostly correct. It is objectively heavy, but FEELS a good deal softer than the Irish ones of similar/slightly lighter weight. If Minnis/W Bill can be considered crisp, the Solbiati is probably best described as fluid.
 

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