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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Aloysius16

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It would be really useful if we knew the actual width of the lapel; I have the impression, however, that this is an overcoating fabric, which makes it a no-go for me if this is a SC (the image is cropped so we cannot tell).

Cheers,

Dimitris
thanks for the suggestions everyone. I do admire the larger scale cloth, but I would probably not choose it for this commission.
 

classicalthunde

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Thinking about getting a brown suit and I'm between the two Standeven fabrics below. Wondering if I can get some feedback: do you prefer the darker brown with subtle mottling or the lighter brown with more mottling?



View attachment 1711555 View attachment 1711556



The lighter brown as a suit



I'd go dark brown, I prefer the subtle mottling and think if you're gonna go for a brown suit you should dive all in. I think the lighter shade seems like too much of a hedge between brown and tan. I also find the more pronounced grid pattern of the mottling to be kind of distracting.

alan see brown suit.jpg


Glenn Au brown suit.jpg


mark cho brown suit.jpg


Brown suit 3.jpg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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That looks great @emptym Dense navy boucle would be my travel fabric of choice: stretchy but unlike jersey it wouldn’t catch on everything…or maybe I’m kidding myself…

Actually, this would be a great option: @DavidLane and I noticed this Drapers fabric that is 100% wool, a good middle weight (330g), has a loose weave, wrinkle resistant, has a really pronounced twill, is naturally super stretchy/springy, isn’t shiny, is made in England…and ridiculously expensive. Like $350/m.

We’re wondering who the mill is; hopefully we can find it cheaper. It’s pretty much the perfect travel blazer cloth.

View attachment 1710880 View attachment 1710881
@UrbanComposition @DavidLane

W Bill Shetlands fit some of your descriptors: midweight, loose weave, slightly stretchy, pure wool, wrinkle-resistant, very matte finish. If you hold it up to the light, you can see through it, like your photo. I don't have swatches of the twills, but I have swatches of their other fabrics. May be worth contacting Kempt and Hewitt to see if they can send you swatches of the twill. I assume the cloth is less than $350/ meter


 

Markus W

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That looks great @emptym Dense navy boucle would be my travel fabric of choice: stretchy but unlike jersey it wouldn’t catch on everything…or maybe I’m kidding myself…

Actually, this would be a great option: @DavidLane and I noticed this Drapers fabric that is 100% wool, a good middle weight (330g), has a loose weave, wrinkle resistant, has a really pronounced twill, is naturally super stretchy/springy, isn’t shiny, is made in England…and ridiculously expensive. Like $350/m.

We’re wondering who the mill is; hopefully we can find it cheaper. It’s pretty much the perfect travel blazer cloth.

View attachment 1710880 View attachment 1710881
350 $ ????? :eek:
On the Drapers site it says 112,00 €.

I have a Drapers price list here with me but unfortunately that cloth is missing. But guessing from all the other cloth prices it will cost a tailor less than the mentioned 112 € here in Europe. Write me a PM if I should send someone a few meters at net cost. :cool:
 

TC11201

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Does anybody know if the source of the image is WW Chan Shanghai or HK? If Shanghai, I can pop in and ask the manager.
Pretty sure that’s HK. It’s the same background and set up they used when they put a piece they made for me on their Insta account. And I’ve only ever been a customer of the HK operation. Someone could email Patrick / the main email address and ask - they’re quite responsive.
 

UrbanComposition

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350 $ ????? :eek:
On the Drapers site it says 112,00 €.

I have a Drapers price list here with me but unfortunately that cloth is missing. But guessing from all the other cloth prices it will cost a tailor less than the mentioned 112 € here in Europe. Write me a PM if I should send someone a few meters at net cost. :cool:
Whoops! I misspoke; I meant to say it’s $350 for 2.5m, which is actually quite reasonable. Sorry for the poor translation @DavidLane
 

TC11201

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It would be really useful if we knew the actual width of the lapel; I have the impression, however, that this is an overcoating fabric, which makes it a no-go for me if this is a SC (the image is cropped so we cannot tell).

Cheers,

Dimitris
If it helps/is still relevant, this is the H&S fabric (or at least the current version of it) from Chan-made SC. The lapels are 4.25” according to Chan (although that’s apparently from memory as the piece was made 3 yrs ago).

1638283507754.jpeg
 

Bespoke DJP

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If it helps/is still relevant, this is the H&S fabric (or at least the current version of it) from Chan-made SC. The lapels are 4.25” according to Chan (although that’s apparently from memory as the piece was made 3 yrs ago).

View attachment 1712335

Well, indeed I do not know if this is still relevant, but it sure is helpful, and your contribution should be acknowledged Sir!

As far as my comment (the one that you quoted) is concerned, it had nothing to do with the H&S fabric used by WWChan (you may just go one page back & check), but to the Fox fabric posted by our fellow @undertheskin, as it was that particular herringbone that we had no information as to its width; the one of the H&S is crystal clear: what the company cites in its own page!

Best,

Dimitris
 

Marshak

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Funded this vintage Arthur Harrison worsted flannel in a dark navy tone. I made a pair of trousers in the version currently produced by Taylor and Lodge under the same brand and love it. Stiff and resilient with an iron drape.

PA270082-350x263.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wren

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Thinking about getting a brown suit and I'm between the two Standeven fabrics below. Wondering if I can get some feedback: do you prefer the darker brown with subtle mottling or the lighter brown with more mottling?



View attachment 1711555 View attachment 1711556



The lighter brown as a suit




I like the lighter one. It makes a fun suit. I think this is the heritage twist book (sorry if I missed you mentioning it)? There is a houndstooth of a similar colourway in the same book that makes an interesting suit too.
 

classicalthunde

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any recommendations for a mid-weight (10-13oz) mid-grey sharkskin cloth? I'm open to both wool or a wool-mohair mix but want to avoid it being too shiny for a work setting...

looking for something along the lines of this:
bond midgrey.jpg


midgrey.JPG
 
Last edited:

othertravel

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Hey everybody, would appreciate some advice on this cloth. Does it look like a fresco weave to you?
For context, it’s a wool/silk blend…

63E08140-D018-4CC2-ACD9-9465570A41AA.png

C3B8BF50-C44E-4B5C-9602-4146BCDF1A79.png
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Fresco is a branded name for a type of tropical wool. If you hold the fabric up to the light, you can see how much light pours through. This will tell you if the fabric has an open weave.
 

tim_horton

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any recommendations for a mid-weight (10-13oz) mid-grey sharkskin cloth? I'm open to both wool or a wool-mohair mix but want to avoid it being too shiny for a work setting...
Grey sharkskin is my favorite suiting fabric. I've had it made up in various shades from Lesser Golden Bale, Lesser 13 oz, and Drapers (Arrival, I think?). They were all great. It would really come down to the color, I went with Golden Bale the one time not because of any perceived quality difference but because it came in the exact light grey I was looking for. I'm sure Harrisons has a bunch among their books too, in various weights.
 

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