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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Markus W

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For me it get´s even worst. I love a jacket one day and hate it the other. One day it´s perfect and the next day I want the back longer and arms shorter and everything else is wrong, too. o_O I came to the conclusion that the perfect jacket/trousers does not exist.
 

Marshak

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Did any of you order something in the vintage Arthur Harrison 2080 flannel sold by Harrison's of Burley ? Seems very close in shade and texture to the flannel currently produced by Taylor and Lodge (who bought back Arthur Harrison).
 

Jmr928

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Had been thinking of having a jacket made up in this style that @UrbanComposition just posted. Cucinelli makes a similar one that had been the original inspiration.
Trying to decide on fabrics to grab some swatches from and wondering if any of you guys have any suggestions on a wool/cashmere blend or brushed jersey fabric that might have some stretch to it.

I do a fair number of one day trips for work so I’m envisioning a completely unstructured jacket I can kind of ball up on flights and then pull out and can bounce between looking like a sweater/jacket on days when all I fly with is my briefcase.
 

dieworkwear

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Had been thinking of having a jacket made up in this style that @UrbanComposition just posted. Cucinelli makes a similar one that had been the original inspiration.
Trying to decide on fabrics to grab some swatches from and wondering if any of you guys have any suggestions on a wool/cashmere blend or brushed jersey fabric that might have some stretch to it.

I do a fair number of one day trips for work so I’m envisioning a completely unstructured jacket I can kind of ball up on flights and then pull out and can bounce between looking like a sweater/jacket on days when all I fly with is my briefcase.
Why have that made and not get it off the rack? There are a ton of brands that do that sort of thing nowadays -- Canali, Barena, etc.
 

Jmr928

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Why have that made and not get it off the rack? There are a ton of brands that do that sort of thing nowadays -- Canali, Barena, etc.
Mainly customization - fabric/color. But fit also a factor - I nearly got the BC version but the fit just was wonky on me and my wife vetoed it based on the fit.
CF5AAEEB-A820-4C5F-8C47-0520B436EA8D.jpeg


Canali tends to fit me well OTR which is why I was encouraged by the one Peter posted but it appears they only make it in that shade - I was thinking something in a navy or a navy melange would be easier to pair with what I normally wear and for its intended use
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Mainly customization - fabric/color. But fit also a factor - I nearly got the BC version but the fit just was wonky on me and my wife vetoed it based on the fit. View attachment 1710720

Canali tends to fit me well OTR which is why I was encouraged by the one Peter posted but it appears they only make it in that shade - I was thinking something in a navy or a navy melange would be easier to pair with what I normally wear and for its intended use
This is an unusual style for a tailor, so you may want to see if they can produce such a thing. Similar to the idea of sticking to a house style.
 

UrbanComposition

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I think you can do bespoke @Jmr928 but if you want to step up from this and most others like it, I’d recommend getting it lined. The jersey knit is awesome but it catches on everything underneath and makes for unflattering bunchy rolls/wrinkles.

To your question, I saw both Drapers and Zegna jersey bunches when Salvo was out.
 

marmite

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Canali tends to fit me well OTR which is why I was encouraged by the one Peter posted but it appears they only make it in that shade - I was thinking something in a navy or a navy melange would be easier to pair with what I normally wear and for its intended use
Weber+Weber have really nice travel blazers. The quality is quite good, esp. for the price. I think it's an Austrian company, but the garments are made in Italy. I use an unlined 3 roll 2 Boglioli jacket the same way but it's obviously styled differently.

I'm looking for a bold plaid coating fabric. Any ideas where to look? Something like this peacoat from Todd Snyder.

 

dieworkwear

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Random fabric thought: it's amazing to me how little effort some mills and merchants put into representing their cloth online. I realize colors can come off differently on a screen, but the gap between what's represented on a website and the swatch you get in the mail is astounding. It's like they took photos with a potato camera.
 

emptym

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@Jmr928, Luxire made me a similar jacket out of boiled wool flannel.
IMG_2709 3.jpeg
IMG_7223.jpeg

Some more pics here.

It's great for travel: soft, wrinkle-resistant, breathes well, fairly wind-resistant. I got the flannel then washed it myself in scalding water. Navy would be neat.
 

UrbanComposition

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That looks great @emptym Dense navy boucle would be my travel fabric of choice: stretchy but unlike jersey it wouldn’t catch on everything…or maybe I’m kidding myself…

Actually, this would be a great option: @DavidLane and I noticed this Drapers fabric that is 100% wool, a good middle weight (330g), has a loose weave, wrinkle resistant, has a really pronounced twill, is naturally super stretchy/springy, isn’t shiny, is made in England…and ridiculously expensive. Like $350/m.

We’re wondering who the mill is; hopefully we can find it cheaper. It’s pretty much the perfect travel blazer cloth.

65544DCF-E33A-4DE0-93F3-51963D8D0204.jpeg
6A918001-86B7-4B3A-99AD-475438EFE516.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @UrbanComposition,

Since you mention Zegna on your previous post above, a very nice alternative, and far more economical than the Drapers one, is offered by Ermenegildo Zegna in their "Bielmonte" line: the fabrics (100% Wool, at 360grams) come from sheep living in Oasi Zegna, the Group's natural habitat. These fabrics are equivalent to Loro Piana "Sopra Viso" if you have ever handled them, and possess some of the properties that you mention above.

Here is what I have chosen for a similar project to yours:


1638052435282.png


Best,

Dimitris
 

bernoulli

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Does anybody have experience with fresco mohair from Hardy Minnis? Earlier, there has been an illuminating discussion on the pros and cons of mohair, but fresco is such a unique beast that I wouldn't mind picking the brains of the experienced members in the forum. This is a blue-grey that does not seem to have any sheen and feels similar to the other scratchy fabrics on the Fresco III book by Huddersfield (I am a big fan of the coarse and sturdy nature of fresco - https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55).

For context, I usually have 3-piece suits made out of fresco fabrics.

IMG_3931.jpg
 

The Chai

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Does anybody have experience with fresco mohair from Hardy Minnis? Earlier, there has been an illuminating discussion on the pros and cons of mohair, but fresco is such a unique beast that I wouldn't mind picking the brains of the experienced members in the forum. This is a blue-grey that does not seem to have any sheen and feels similar to the other scratchy fabrics on the Fresco III book by Huddersfield (I am a big fan of the coarse and sturdy nature of fresco - https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55).

For context, I usually have 3-piece suits made out of fresco fabrics.

View attachment 1711143
Think dormeuil tonik but more lightweight and slightly softer...and still as scratchy!
 

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