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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

bernoulli

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Thank you. Very useful. In the past, I have had a tailor quote Minnis as almost the same price as Zegna, and much more than VBC, for instance. Negotiations in China are a pain in the ass, and the only way to learn the approximate range that a piece of fabric should cost is to flat out state that one will not pay more than a certain amount and walk away if the tailors say they can't do it. It is time-consuming and frustrating. Learning that Minnis should be a bit cheaper is really helpful as an anchor for price negotiations.

Tailoring oddities aside, I think, at least when speaking retail rates, you can bank on Minnis being a decent bit cheaper than others. Fox is an extreme outlier, though that is priced to dissuade retail buyers, I do believe. They're drastically more expensive.
On the whole, unless there is some real fuckery afoot with your tailor's prices, the difference, going strictly off retail, should not be enough to force your hand one way or the other. Get what most appeals to you.
 

mactire

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Is the price of the Finmeresco comparable to Hardy Minnis Fresco? By now, I know what to expect when ordering a suit with the latter but have never tried Finmeresco.
Ask your tailor his pricing for cut, make and trim and that'll give you an idea of the spread in pricing across tailoring bunches.
 

Despos

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Does anyone (@Despos maybe) have views on the quality of the current Lessers 13 oz book? I like the color of their plain navy cloths better than any others I've seen, but I seem to recall some griping about post-acquisition quality.
I agree about depth of color with Lesser cloth. Don't think the cloth is what it used to be and stopped using it.
 

Mr. Pink

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I agree about depth of color with Lesser cloth. Don't think the cloth is what it used to be and stopped using it.
Anything you could recommend that matches the quality of Lesser's depth of color?
 

Despos

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Anything you could recommend that matches the quality of Lesser's depth of color?
Nothing I'm aware of. But I don't intentionally make that comparison.

Use Lesser if you like the color and pattern.

I don't elevate the quality of Lesser cloth as I once did. It was like prime beef and now it's choice.
Friend had a conversation with a Lesser family member and was told the same thing. Too many obstacles and expenses; mills don't finish the cloth as they perviously did or maybe just not to the standards Lesser expected.
 

JHWilliams

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Is this a flannel, worsted, twill or whipcord?Or is the book a combination of a few weaves?

-DL
The bunch wasn't complete when I was able to secure the cloth. There will be a few different weaves when complete. This is a worsted twill. Dry handle, lovely cloth.
 

Crispyj

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Anyone seen Drago Skyfall bunch yet? My tailor said it's double faced and his machine might not be heavy duty enough.
 

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