Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

Also:

Tailors Supplies & Trimming Merchants - The Lining Company

Textile & Trimming Merchants and Tailors' Supplies. Bernstein & Banleys Est. 1953. Buy Online Today.

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Best,

Dimitris

I would usually recommend this but depending where you are and if you're ordering alot of stuff the shipping can be exorbitant for a few buttons!

 

[classicalthunde]

thanks! and 30L for the front and 22L for the cuffs is the standard, correct?

 

[The Chai]

thanks! and 30L for the front and 22L for the cuffs is the standard, correct?

Yeah. Maybe 32L if double breasted for front

 

[classicalthunde]

I would usually recommend this but depending where you are and if you're ordering alot of stuff the shipping can be exorbitant for a few buttons!

lol, you weren't kidding...45 GBP for 2 sets of buttons! gonna need to look elsewhere haha, maybe I'll just see what my alterations tailor has available

 

[The Chai]

lol, you weren't kidding...45 GBP for 2 sets of buttons! gonna need to look elsewhere haha, maybe I'll just see what my alterations tailor has available

O

Look at the two websites I recommended above

 

[FlyingHorker]

^ thanks. I remember your coat and like it.

I find the pattern of the M&E „fuzzier,“ if that makes any sense. The Fox one seems to have a bit crisper pattern, as if it were a higher resolution. I remember seeing a length of H&S in some shop in Naples a while back with a similar pattern to the Fox.

Yeah that makes perfect sense. The M&E is a lot more "tweedy" and relatively more rough, especially up close. It can be seen well in the houndstooth portion of the checks.

The Fox cloth looks much more refined.

You are both gentlemen, @FlyingHorker and @dan'l correct and very informative.

In my eyes the main difference is - as Dan pointed - that the Fox overcoating fabric has a very generous P-o-W check rendering the following effect: at any given overcoat length, due to the size of the check, the number of rows / checks will be less than, say, the ones of the excellent M&E, or other "normal"-sized overcoating P-o-W checks.

This is not something to be taken lightly; if a gentleman is not very tall, the less check rows will cause a negative visual effect and instead of elongating his figure, I am afraid that exactly the opposite will occur!

A tailor (SF members are rightfully excluded!) may not even bother to raise this issue, but innumerable examples that can be found online from images in Pitti, etc, cannot hide the truth.

Best,

Dimitris

Thanks Dimitris, always appreciate your input as well.

Definitely did not think about the widening effect of the Fox, if I understood correctly. I really dislike traditional windowpanes in sportscoats for that very reason.

I admit I'd probably still use that Fox cloth if I had it available, even with the negative visual effect. I'm a sucker for PoW in all scales. They're traditional, but also feel really fun.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thanks Dimitris, always appreciate your input as well.

Definitely did not think about the widening effect of the Fox, if I understood correctly.

You are very welcome!

Well, not actually "widening" but "shortening" (the silhouette) visual effect.

Best,

Dimitris


PS
This Fox cloth is a quite handsome fabric!

 

[CasuallyWorked]

Does anybody know if this Marling and Evans fabric is code S1635/15892/E5

 

[dan'l]

You are both gentlemen, @FlyingHorker and @dan'l correct and very informative.

In my eyes the main difference is - as Dan pointed - that the Fox overcoating fabric has a very generous P-o-W check rendering the following effect: at any given overcoat length, due to the size of the check, the number of rows / checks will be less than, say, the ones of the excellent M&E, or other "normal"-sized overcoating P-o-W checks.

This is not something to be taken lightly; if a gentleman is not very tall, the less check rows will cause a negative visual effect and instead of elongating his figure, I am afraid that exactly the opposite will occur!

A tailor (SF members are rightfully excluded!) may not even bother to raise this issue, but innumerable examples that can be found online from images in Pitti, etc, cannot hide the truth.

Best,

Dimitris

This is an excellent observation; thanks for that. I am also „vertically challenged“ and your post saved me £700!

Actually, I‘ve been looking for something like this for a few years now. No success so far.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

This is an excellent observation; thanks for that. I am also „vertically challenged“ and your post saved me £700!

Actually, I‘ve been looking for something like this for a few years now. No success so far.

View attachment 1667898

Indeed; we are on the same boat as far as this overcoating fabric is concerned.

This is exactly the same as the Andreas Weinas' one here below, and IMO it is the quintessential grey P-o-W balmacaan!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[jessnie1987]

Hi folks - been contemplating having a pair of gabardine pants made for upcoming fall to be worn with sport coats. Used to own a pair that drapes and flows beautifully, but cannot locate the bunch. Any recommendation as which mill/book I should be looking at? Much appreciated.

 

[reidd]

Hi folks - been contemplating having a pair of gabardine pants made for upcoming fall to be worn with sport coats. Used to own a pair that drapes and flows beautifully, but cannot locate the bunch. Any recommendation as which mill/book I should be looking at? Much appreciated.

Dugdale has a really nice gabardine bunch with a ton of colors in a decent weight if I recall. I haven't had it made up personally though.

 

[JHWilliams]

Dugdale has a really nice gabardine bunch with a ton of colors in a decent weight if I recall. I haven't had it made up personally though.

I just commissioned two pair of trousers made up from Dugdale’s royal pageant gab. I’m eagerly awaiting them. More of a summer, weight, though. HFW has a great gabardine bunch in s heavier weight.

 

[JHWilliams]

Hi folks - been contemplating having a pair of gabardine pants made for upcoming fall to be worn with sport coats. Used to own a pair that drapes and flows beautifully, but cannot locate the bunch. Any recommendation as which mill/book I should be looking at? Much appreciated.

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Super Gabardine bunch is 11/12 ounces. More of a year round weight. Dugdale’s Royal Pageant Gab bunch is beautiful but more of a summer weight

 

[jessnie1987]

Thank you so much, folks! Will def check out the HFW book, looks promising!