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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

classicalthunde

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I just commissioned the Wellington green basket weave from this collection. Really looking forward to trying it on for a fitting.
I have some navy hopsack swatches from them that I really like and am considering using for an upcoming sport coat if the price...is their basket weave basically analogous to the mock leno weave?
 

JHWilliams

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I have some navy hopsack swatches from them that I really like and am considering using for an upcoming sport coat if the price...is their basket weave basically analogous to the mock leno weave?
Yes! Their basketweave is a mock Leno. If you are looking for navy, I highly recommend the dugdale tropical air navy mock Leno. I’m having a blazer made from that cloth. It’s beautiful and much less expensive than fox.
 

JHWilliams

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I have some navy hopsack swatches from them that I really like and am considering using for an upcoming sport coat if the price...is their basket weave basically analogous to the mock leno weave?
this photograph doesn’t do the cloth justice.
I would imagine your are commissioning this jacket for spring/summer ? The fox and the dugdale are both open weave options.
 

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JHWilliams

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thank you. The LL mistral looks beautiful , but at 18oz its a bit too heavy for my climate (Singapore). Ill take a look at the fox sports, would definitely prefer a fabric with texture
check out dugdale tropical air mock leno Perfect for your climate.
 

classicalthunde

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this photograph doesn’t do the cloth justice.
I would imagine your are commissioning this jacket for spring/summer ? The fox and the dugdale are both open weave options.
Actually, this will be more of a F/W jacket...I already have a 280g hopsack from Caccioppoli with a noticeable texture that I am waiting to have made up in a relaxed Italian style.

For this idea, I'd like to have a slightly heavier hopsack with a finer texture to have made up in an English drape style
 

Hoogstraten

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Hope this is the right place to ask! Has anyone about 1m of this fabric (300215) from Caccioppoli's spring/summer collection 2020 left? I got the last order, but sadly there's a manufacturing error right at the end of the roll so it is not enough to finish the project.
Here is a picture of the fabric as well:
300215.jpg


Thanks for the help!
Cheers!
 

Despos

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Hope this is the right place to ask! Has anyone about 1m of this fabric (300215) from Caccioppoli's spring/summer collection 2020 left? I got the last order, but sadly there's a manufacturing error right at the end of the roll so it is not enough to finish the project.
Here is a picture of the fabric as well:
View attachment 1641237

Thanks for the help!
Cheers!
Did they find the flaw before or after cutting the cloth? Did they try to cut around the flawed area?
 

Despos

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Coming to a tailor shop near you...
Received a new F/W 2021 Scabal sample book, Sonata.
320 gram in three weaves. Herringbone, honeycomb and twill. Good colors, great weight and hand. Looks promising. Photos exaggerate the weaves and are a poor representation of the colors.
Honeycomb.JPG
Twill.JPG
Sonata.JPG
 

Despos

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I cannot decide if that moss green is the greatest jacketing I've seen in months or an indoor putting green.
It's a darker olive than what you may be seeing in this pic.
There is a similar cloth, olive with brown accents in a Drapers book that I can't locate at present.
@UrbanComposition just had it made up. Maybe he can post a pic of the jacket.
 

JHWilliams

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I’m new to Scabal cloth. Has anyone had experience with “Big Ben” ? Classics?
 

TeddyHanoi

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Have you scouted
Have you scouted tailors yet in Hanoi?

Yes I have. I scouted about 6. Opted for one of the older families and used my own criteria in that the tailor has to be actually in the store cutting. I have one shoulder a little shorter but significantly lower than the other, and they couldn't get the cut right and eventually abandoned the job, refunding my outlay on material (Powder blue Basketweave from Fox merchants). This was quite a sum but they refunded no bother and asked for a second chance, admitting their mistake and insisting it won't happen again and to give a second chance. I have handed over holland and sherry mesh blazer material and am firmly holding fingers crossed.

The tailors here respond more to what you tell them rather than taking you in hand and guiding you through the best materials to use etc.

It took 5-6 experiments with different tailors in HCMC until I found a competent one but unfortunately he has been in the USA since just before the pandemic and I'm hitting 18 months now with cloth in the wardrobe still with no sign of regular tailor returning to vietnam so am back to experimenting - this time in my new location - Hanoi.
 

TeddyHanoi

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re: Hanoi, what about Escorial 3-Ply Travel Suiting? Superlight and impossible to wrinkle. (Primavera bunch).
Hi I'm actually looking for autumn and winter cloth. But thanks for the tip if I need to get a summer suit made.
 

TeddyHanoi

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Hanoi - I would wear summer weight stuff

Saigon / HCMC - I would contemplate nudity.

I am not sure if I had a day in HCMC where I didn't shower again before dinner. This is based on Oct/nov experiences a couple years ago

I dont think the English fabric mindset really maps to SE Asia - 80f/28c is a hot day in Britain, it is Tuesday is Vietnam
Hi,

I really wish now I hadn't mentioned Hanoi because I seem to be getting recommendations about summer cloths for Hanoi but my question is about autumn and winter cloths that I can use in Ireland and UK and winter in Hanoi - I spent last winter in Hanoi and visited Hanoi during winter before that, it can get very cold indeed - it can get below 10 degrees.

I spent 2 years in HCMC and you can comfortably use a semi-lined linen blazer or fresco blazers. Just so everybody knows, my wardrobe is a summer wardrobe it does not need updating I have the suitable clothing for summer. I'm looking for cold weather weight and types of cloth recommendations.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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@TeddyHanoi The 14oz flannels in the Dugdales flannels book are my favorite, if you have access to it. Warm and cozy, and not as heavily milled as say, the Fox Bros stuff that everyone loves, so it wears harder too. It's also relatively affordable compared to very similar stuff from cloth merchants who are more aggressive about marketing.

VBC doesn't get much love but I have some suits from their flannels and coverts book (jump to the woollen subsection). Feels exactly like what I imagined a woolen should feel like, with a warm soft hand and a satisfying drape, like wearing your favorite old sweater.
 
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