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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Simon A

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Last edited:

TeddyHanoi

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Hi all,

I've been living in summer climes for pushing on 2 decades and usually wear sports jackets and trousers. I have a solid summer sports jacket collection using the following: hopsack, fresco, mesh, linen, linen and silk blends, lightweight merino.

I've now moved to Hanoi and am very much looking forward to building a autumn/winter clothing collection for use in Hanoi winter and for UK and Irish winters when returning home during those seasons. However, I am utterly clueless as to where to begin re winter jacketing and trousers in terms of weight and style of cloth to build the basics:

JACKETING and WEIGHT OF CLOTH:
I have no clue re most common autumn/winter weight. For summer I use anything between 8-10oz is ok for jackets, with slightly heavier if linen.

What are the winter equivalent weights (most common weight range)?

Do I go for Harris tweed? Donegal? What cloths are winter staples for the above climes and most importantly which is an all rounder weight that I can use indoors and outdoors (naturally if outrageously cold I'll be throwing an overcoat on - Western Europe and North Vietnam winter are the climes).

TROUSERS: Flannels get mentioned a lot on this thread and from what I can see it's basically a heavy wool/merino? What's a common weight range for winter? What is a good weight for trousers and apart from flannel are there any other cloth that is suitable? Regarding RTW I was looking at Cordings for cords and moleskins.

Any help or opinions most appreciated.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hi all,

I've been living in summer climes for pushing on 2 decades and usually wear sports jackets and trousers. I have a solid summer sports jacket collection using the following: hopsack, fresco, mesh, linen, linen and silk blends, lightweight merino.

I've now moved to Hanoi and am very much looking forward to building a autumn/winter clothing collection for use in Hanoi winter and for UK and Irish winters when returning home during those seasons. However, I am utterly clueless as to where to begin re winter jacketing and trousers in terms of weight and style of cloth to build the basics:

JACKETING and WEIGHT OF CLOTH:
I have no clue re most common autumn/winter weight. For summer I use anything between 8-10oz is ok for jackets, with slightly heavier if linen.

What are the winter equivalent weights (most common weight range)?

Do I go for Harris tweed? Donegal? What cloths are winter staples for the above climes and most importantly which is an all rounder weight that I can use indoors and outdoors (naturally if outrageously cold I'll be throwing an overcoat on - Western Europe and North Vietnam winter are the climes).

TROUSERS: Flannels get mentioned a lot on this thread and from what I can see it's basically a heavy wool/merino? What's a common weight range for winter? What is a good weight for trousers and apart from flannel are there any other cloth that is suitable? Regarding RTW I was looking at Cordings for cords and moleskins.

Any help or opinions most appreciated.
It's pretty warm in Vietnam, even in the winter. Not sure a winter cloth for UK is suitable for winter in Vietnam. I think your current rotation of summer fabrics is better.
 

ZRH1

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I love them. About 50/50 is a good blend, they are cool to wear and reasonably robust. Wrinkle a bit more than pure wool but that's fine, most wrinkles will fall out overnight on the hangar. About 10 oz is a good weight.

View attachment 1640633
thank you! I see that there are trousers there as well. Given the Fox offering is weaved in hopsack, how do you think a suit, ie. trousers specifically, will turn out? Thanks
 

JHWilliams

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This isn’t a wsl but you may want to consider it..haven’t tried this out myself. However, this is bunch that I am highly interested in for a midnight navy hopsack single breasted blazer. More than likely i will order a couple of samples of both the midnight mesh and hopsack from this bunch.
I just commissioned the Wellington green basket weave from this collection. Really looking forward to trying it on for a fitting.
 

JHWilliams

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Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?
i just commissioned the Fox Sport basket weave in Wellington green. Beautiful sample of cloth.
For years round weight, I would love to get my hands on some London Lounge Midnight Mistral Hopsack cloth. They are considering another run of it in the near future. Steven Hitchcock loved tailoring this cloth.
 

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JHWilliams

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Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?
i just commissioned the Fox Sport basket weave in Wellington green. Beautiful sample of cloth.
For years round weight, I would love to get my hands on some London Lounge Midnight Mistral Hopsack cloth. They are considering another run of it in the near future. Steven Hitchcock loved tailoring this cloth.
 

Simon A

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thank you! I see that there are trousers there as well. Given the Fox offering is weaved in hopsack, how do you think a suit, ie. trousers specifically, will turn out? Thanks
The mill mentions that it is a jacketing, you could contact their customer service people for advice.

Navy linen tends to fade over time, especially in trousers, so you have to consider whether that matters to you.
 

Sreezy36

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Proper proper black tie? Maybe 3-4 but u rarely get people turning up to black tie to those. Events with an excuse to wear black tie like opera or ballroom? Maybe 3 - 4 a month
Wow. Assuming that you are married or in a relationship, your spouse must be loving life 😂😂😂. They have the opportunity to play “dress up” 30+ times year.
 

circumspice

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Hanoi - I would wear summer weight stuff

Saigon / HCMC - I would contemplate nudity.

I am not sure if I had a day in HCMC where I didn't shower again before dinner. This is based on Oct/nov experiences a couple years ago

I dont think the English fabric mindset really maps to SE Asia - 80f/28c is a hot day in Britain, it is Tuesday is Vietnam
 

The Chai

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Wow. Assuming that you are married or in a relationship, your spouse must be loving life 😂😂😂. They have the opportunity to play “dress up” 30+ times year.
Nah I'm enjoying the great virtues of bachelorhood; -)
 

ZRH1

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re: Hanoi, what about Escorial 3-Ply Travel Suiting? Superlight and impossible to wrinkle. (Primavera bunch).
 

Noirkw

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i just commissioned the Fox Sport basket weave in Wellington green. Beautiful sample of cloth.
For years round weight, I would love to get my hands on some London Lounge Midnight Mistral Hopsack cloth. They are considering another run of it in the near future. Steven Hitchcock loved tailoring this cloth.
thank you. The LL mistral looks beautiful , but at 18oz its a bit too heavy for my climate (Singapore). Ill take a look at the fox sports, would definitely prefer a fabric with texture
 

acapaca

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Hi all,

I've been living in summer climes for pushing on 2 decades and usually wear sports jackets and trousers. I have a solid summer sports jacket collection using the following: hopsack, fresco, mesh, linen, linen and silk blends, lightweight merino.

I've now moved to Hanoi and am very much looking forward to building a autumn/winter clothing collection for use in Hanoi winter and for UK and Irish winters when returning home during those seasons. However, I am utterly clueless as to where to begin re winter jacketing and trousers in terms of weight and style of cloth to build the basics:

JACKETING and WEIGHT OF CLOTH:
I have no clue re most common autumn/winter weight. For summer I use anything between 8-10oz is ok for jackets, with slightly heavier if linen.

What are the winter equivalent weights (most common weight range)?

Do I go for Harris tweed? Donegal? What cloths are winter staples for the above climes and most importantly which is an all rounder weight that I can use indoors and outdoors (naturally if outrageously cold I'll be throwing an overcoat on - Western Europe and North Vietnam winter are the climes).

TROUSERS: Flannels get mentioned a lot on this thread and from what I can see it's basically a heavy wool/merino? What's a common weight range for winter? What is a good weight for trousers and apart from flannel are there any other cloth that is suitable? Regarding RTW I was looking at Cordings for cords and moleskins.

Any help or opinions most appreciated.
Have you scouted tailors yet in Hanoi?
 

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