• We would like to welcome Pete and Harry as an official Affiliate Vendor. Pete and Harry, co-founded by Erik (EFV) one of our long time members and friends, offers a wide variety of products, clothes, watches and accessories, antique, vintage, “pre-loved” and new - all at unparalleled prices. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
7,136
Reaction score
1,268
Any ideas about fabric for a teba? Fox has had a few examples out there, and I took delivery on one in their midnight Fresco subsitute. I'm now talking to a London shirtmaker about making another, but haven't had much experience with these IRL.

Moving away from tropical worsted or linen, is there a successful solution for cooler weather? Gabardine? Hopsack? Worsted flannel? Any failures to record on this front?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
23,321
Reaction score
58,027
Any ideas about fabric for a teba? Fox has had a few examples out there, and I took delivery on one in their midnight Fresco subsitute. I'm now talking to a London shirtmaker about making another, but haven't had much experience with these IRL.

Moving away from tropical worsted or linen, is there a successful solution for cooler weather? Gabardine? Hopsack? Worsted flannel? Any failures to record on this front?
I've sorta stopped wearing the style. But when I did, I found that spongey tweed worked best. IMO, those shirt jacket things also work better when the coat has some kind of structure. Justo Gimeno makes theirs with a bit of fusing at the front and a very light shoulder pad. I think this helps create a better looking silhouette. But this may require factory production, rather than going through a tailor.
 

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
7,136
Reaction score
1,268
I shall take a harder look at the Gimeno when it comes back from alterations (the collar needed a little pulling down in the back). Somehow, I was only aware of lack of construction, but there is probably a reason that he's famous.
 

Noirkw

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
83
Reaction score
55
Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?
 

Sreezy36

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
154
Reaction score
105
Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?



This isn’t a wsl but you may want to consider it..haven’t tried this out myself. However, this is bunch that I am highly interested in for a midnight navy hopsack single breasted blazer. More than likely i will order a couple of samples of both the midnight mesh and hopsack from this bunch.
 

Sreezy36

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
154
Reaction score
105
Has anyone tried the 10/11oz whipcord from the Holland and Sherry “Dakota” book for trousers or suiting? Also, @Despos do you have any experience with tailoring the 10/11 oz Dakota whipcord? If so, can you elaborate on its tailoring qualities and it’s potential for suiting at that particular weight? It seems like a very intriguing prospect for suiting.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
23,321
Reaction score
58,027
Has anyone tried the 10/11oz whipcord from the Holland and Sherry “Dakota” book for trousers or suiting? Also, @Despos do you have any experience with tailoring the 10/11 oz Dakota whipcord? If so, can you elaborate on its tailoring qualities and it’s potential for suiting at that particular weight? It seems like a very intriguing prospect for suiting.
I have a couple of trousers in Dakota whipcord. Been thinking about using it for a suit.

Not sure what I can say about it besides the usual. It drapes well. This specific cloth has some nice mottling. I prefer it in the larger, more prominent twill (the smaller twill is nice too, but the larger twill looks sportier). My favorite fabric for trousers.
 

Sreezy36

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
154
Reaction score
105
I have a couple of trousers in Dakota whipcord. Been thinking about using it for a suit.

Not sure what I can say about it besides the usual. It drapes well. This specific cloth has some nice mottling. I prefer it in the larger, more prominent twill (the smaller twill is nice too, but the larger twill looks sportier). My favorite fabric for trousers.
If I’m not mistaken, I believe the larger more prominent twills are in the heavier weight whipcords. Also, the fabrics with beautiful motting effects are the earth tones and light/mid grays. More or less, I guess I was concerned about the lighter weight 10/11 oz being too much of compromise in terms of performance. Mainly because I usually see military twills in weights heavier than 370g.
 

The Chai

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
1,592
Reaction score
1,372
PSA. Standeven does summer tweeds now in mohair blends I believe
 

Sreezy36

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
154
Reaction score
105
I threw some out because covid but in rotation. 5. I am waiting on my three piece with db waistcoat which is getting altered rn
How many black tie events do you normally attend during the course of a typical year (typical year non-pandemic)?
 

The Chai

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
1,592
Reaction score
1,372
How many black tie events do you normally attend during the course of a typical year (typical year non-pandemic)?
Proper proper black tie? Maybe 3-4 but u rarely get people turning up to black tie to those. Events with an excuse to wear black tie like opera or ballroom? Maybe 3 - 4 a month
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How often do you get a haircut?

  • Every 2 weeks

  • Every 3 weeks

  • Once a month

  • Every 6 weeks or longer


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
464,162
Messages
10,025,903
Members
209,392
Latest member
bukenrabtneha
Top