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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

classicalthunde

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So 2 questions.

1.My trusty solid Navy made to measure I got 12 years ago has finally worn out. While I could still wear it without embarrassing myself, it is clearly past its prime and in need of replacement. What do you all do with suits that worn out? Just throw them away?

2. I’m looking to replace it with a navy solid twill. I’m trying a new tailor out, and of the British Mills I like they only have access to Holland and Sherry. I’m considering 10-13 oz, so Target, Cape Horn, Intercity, and City of London books come to mind. I know the Cape Horn and Target have a little cashmere in the mix. Anyone have any recommendations based on those or other Holland and Sherry books for a solid navy? Thanks
I used one of the Cape Horn navy twills for my trad blazer, it arrived just after lockdown started so I've only gotten 1 wear at it for my niece's christening, but I like the fabric. I'll see if I can dig up the reference number, there is a navy and a dark navy, I got the latter.
 

Mr. Six

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Has anyone tried anything from Harrison's Indigo book? I'm concerned about the weight (8oz), but the fabrics look nice.
I started to write a reply but realized you asked about Indigo, not Icarus. The jacket that I got from Solito was from the Icarus book, so no first-hand info. But I seem to recall that Andreas Seoul or Prologue showed at least one jacket on IG from the Indigo bunch.
 

rjkabk

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There are a few organizations where you can donate professional clothing. The clothes are given to low income people who are looking for jobs.

Thank you. My spare bedroom closet is full of sport coats I received from my wife’s grandfather. Really nice stuff but only about a quarter of them fit me. I had tried to donate locally but the local charities, which are all part of larger organizations all had strict rules that the clothing articles had to be machine washable. They wouldn’t take anything that had to be dry cleaned.
 

rjkabk

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I used one of the Cape Horn navy twills for my trad blazer, it arrived just after lockdown started so I've only gotten 1 wear at it for my niece's christening, but I like the fabric. I'll see if I can dig up the reference number, there is a navy and a dark navy, I got the latter.
I would appreciate it.
 

artyom.le.gall

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I started to write a reply but realized you asked about Indigo, not Icarus. The jacket that I got from Solito was from the Icarus book, so no first-hand info. But I seem to recall that Andreas Seoul or Prologue showed at least one jacket on IG from the Indigo bunch.
I actually would like to lean from your Icarus experience. I digitally looked at the bunch and some of them looks good and I assume should be good for hot / humid weather, right ? is that a jacket only or suiting ?
 

norMD

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Gabardine is a bit more fragile. Harder to work, shows wrinkles faster, etc. But with its plainer colors, it draws less immediate attention to itself.
I have one Solaro suit that I haven't worn for a while. I'm still not quite in suit-wearing mode, and if I will be, it will be more summer weights for a while. I think the main idea is to avoid too much bling in the shirt and tie. Plain midnight grenadine is a good place to start. Even there, I would think more about afternoon weddings or Sunday brunch than a board meeting. But that is very dependent on your personal style.

Thank you! I never attend board meetings and sunday brunch or day time parties was my intention when I ordered the suit. I am getting used to the fabric and think i will be less aware of the spotlight effect. I thinking burgundy grenadine tie and Brown suede loafers. Probably a white shirt even if luce advises against it.

 

reidd

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I don't think Solaro wears particularly loud. I find mine quite versatile in fact.
 
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Thinking about pulling a trigger on this cloth. It is a vintage Holland & Sherry circa 1980s. 60% Summer Kid Mohair and 40%Worsted Cashmere & Vicuna which costs around $700 for 3 meters. I'm thinking double breasted suit should do the trick with this. What's your opinion?


Screen Shot 2021-06-22 at 10.51.31 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-06-22 at 10.51.37 PM.png
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Thinking about pulling a trigger on this cloth. It is a vintage Holland & Sherry circa 1980s. 60% Summer Kid Mohair and 40%Worsted Cashmere & Vicuna which costs around $700 for 3 meters. I'm thinking double breasted suit should do the trick with this. What's your opinion?


View attachment 1628806
View attachment 1628807
40% seems very high cashmere content for a summer suit. I'd be worried about how it wears and if the trousers will bag
 
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40% seems very high cashmere content for a summer suit. I'd be worried about how it wears and if the trousers will bag
I think it would be like a 9 months round wear, not specifically for Summer. Probably March to November sort of thing. But I also don't know if the trousers will bag with the high content of cashmere vicuna blend. But wouldn't a 100% Cashmere trousers also bag?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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But wouldn't a 100% Cashmere trousers also bag?
I believe so. I was at a tailor's shop once and he offhandedly mentioned that someone ordered cashmere trousers. I asked, "won't cashmere trousers bag?" He said yes, and that he tried to warn this person, but the customer insisted.
 
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I believe so. I was at a tailor's shop once and he offhandedly mentioned that someone ordered cashmere trousers. I asked, "won't cashmere trousers bag?" He said yes, and that he tried to warn this person, but the customer insisted.
Hmm, interesting. Otherwise I might hold on and buy this fabric from Fox Brothers instead.

BrownPrinceofWalesCheck-CBT9L-A1288-66-FoxBrothers_1_1400x.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hmm, interesting. Otherwise I might hold on and buy this fabric from Fox Brothers instead.

View attachment 1628811
The London Lounge used to have a book with Fox. I was going to use one of their brown glen plaids for a double-breasted suit about eight or nine years ago. It's a walnut color with a faint chestnut-colored overcheck. I don't know if they still have that book -- it's not online -- but might be worth checking out.
 

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