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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

sensuki

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The dark brown Dugdale 12oz Mock Leno is awesome (based on the swatch) if you can't get Smith's - really stood out for me from the other colors when I was flipping through the book last year.

I prefer the Smiths for Navy though
 

Bromley

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The Dugdale brown mock leno is really nice, and very similar to the other mills'/merchants' mock leno cloths.
 

classicalthunde

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@dieworkwear I’m curious what sort of factors play into your decision for sourcing cloth yourself vs. ordering it through your tailor?

is this for a potential future steed commission or someone else?
 

dieworkwear

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@dieworkwear I’m curious what sort of factors play into your decision for sourcing cloth yourself vs. ordering it through your tailor?

is this for a potential future steed commission or someone else?
In this specific case, I'm trying to help a friend find some sport coat fabric. They're looking at Fox Air and I told them I'd have some swatches send their way. Thought I'd add Mock Leno so they have choices.
 

classicalthunde

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Thanks! I sent an email to the US agent for Harrison's. Will see if they have that dark brown Smiths Mock Leno, and if I can get a swatch. If I'm not able to locate it, I'll let you know. Thanks again for your help.
Kent and Hewitt? If so, let me know if you get a response from them. I sent probably half a dozen emails this winter and didn't receive any responses...
 

DavidLane

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In this specific case, I'm trying to help a friend find some sport coat fabric. They're looking at Fox Air and I told them I'd have some swatches send their way. Thought I'd add Mock Leno so they have choices.
Derek, I might actually have the Dugdale book at home, I will check this afternoon. They were provided through a fabric merchant who's name I can't remember. Maybe Atlas.

-DL
 

classicalthunde

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What are peoples favorite spring/summer Loro Piana fabrics? I have jacket lengths of a navy hopsack from Caccioppoli and a brown/blue overcheck WSL from Caccioppoli (but I believe it is woven by Loro Piana) that I am looking to get made up this year from I Sarti, but am kicking around ideas for a third spring/summer jacket to be made in 2022
 

Jamesbond1

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Thanks! I didn't know that Dugdale offers mock leno. Do you happen to know if this has the same texture as the Minnis and Smith's versions? The swatch they show online looks smoother, but maybe it's just that they took a photo from further away.

Also, do you know how I can get a Dugdale swatch sent? Do you just contact Dugdale directly or do they have agents?
The dark brown Dugdale 12oz Mock Leno is awesome (based on the swatch) if you can't get Smith's - really stood out for me from the other colors when I was flipping through the book last year.

I prefer the Smiths for Navy though
109116D6-340E-4650-BDD2-DF64C444C164.jpeg

Yes I like it a lot
 

Jamesbond1

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It is and heavy too but it’s has a very open weave. Most definitely dry but I like it more than my VBC wool/ mohair which feels a bit more delicate than this tank. @dieworkwear do It!!
 

Concordia

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Harrisons Spring Ram has a few at the end that lean this general direction.
 

Concordia

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I just recieved spier and Mackays new solaro suit. Their version is with a newly developed solaro version from drago. The red yarns shine through and provides a proper iridiscent effect.

I have not handled solaro earlier and I was surprised with just how iridiscent the fabric is.

Those of you who own solaro suits, when and how do you wear and pair them? I Wonder if a plain gabardine suit would be much more wearable...?
Gabardine is a bit more fragile. Harder to work, shows wrinkles faster, etc. But with its plainer colors, it draws less immediate attention to itself.
I have one Solaro suit that I haven't worn for a while. I'm still not quite in suit-wearing mode, and if I will be, it will be more summer weights for a while. I think the main idea is to avoid too much bling in the shirt and tie. Plain midnight grenadine is a good place to start. Even there, I would think more about afternoon weddings or Sunday brunch than a board meeting. But that is very dependent on your personal style.
 

rjkabk

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So 2 questions.

1.My trusty solid Navy made to measure I got 12 years ago has finally worn out. While I could still wear it without embarrassing myself, it is clearly past its prime and in need of replacement. What do you all do with suits that worn out? Just throw them away?

2. I’m looking to replace it with a navy solid twill. I’m trying a new tailor out, and of the British Mills I like they only have access to Holland and Sherry. I’m considering 10-13 oz, so Target, Cape Horn, Intercity, and City of London books come to mind. I know the Cape Horn and Target have a little cashmere in the mix. Anyone have any recommendations based on those or other Holland and Sherry books for a solid navy? Thanks
 

dieworkwear

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So 2 questions.

1.My trusty solid Navy made to measure I got 12 years ago has finally worn out. While I could still wear it without embarrassing myself, it is clearly past its prime and in need of replacement. What do you all do with suits that worn out? Just throw them away?
There are a few organizations where you can donate professional clothing. The clothes are given to low income people who are looking for jobs.

 

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