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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

aristoi bcn

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Would you have the same assessment of this photo?

Cool, unwavering style? Or a guy who needs to have his suit pressed and show some shirt cuffs?

(Imagine this photo not taking place against a backdrop of a fancy Moet event. Imagine he's just hanging out in his apartment).


View attachment 1602395
Yes. of course. The basic elements of a good and masculine suit are still there: shoulder width, swelled chest, perfect width lapel, not too bellied (although I prefer a true 3 button), button stance in the waist, proper length...sure, a bit of cuff shown but be nicer but wouldn't make a big difference.

I have linen and cotton suits and sportcoats and I press them once per season, I don't mind at all the wrinkles with these cloths.
 

Despos

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Traveling tailor is eventually the route I would like to go. Tailors such as Steven Hitchcock, Steed, and Redmayne (Tom Mahon) are my preferences. However, I have a couple of concerns. My first concern pertains to availability. Generally, traveling tailors may visit once or twice a year to my area at a maximum. With my unusual body type I may require an abnormal amount of fittings initially. With the tailors traveling schedule, multiple fittings seem like they can become more complicated. My second concern is in regards to maintenance. Very underestimated aspect of bespoke. Adjustments and refittings also seem like they can become more complicated due to the lack of availability from the traveling tailor.
Legitimate concerns.
 

circumspice

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I have an overcoat in the blue version of this cloth. Current prices are around $300/ yard.
Are you happy with it?

I am trying to figure out what I need on the conservative to casual spectrum, and whether I'll end up with something that doesn't work with jeans
 

JFK_88

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Hello Fellas!

I was thinking for the first time ever to go down the bespoke and or MTM route, however with my own preferred fabric. There was this special Chestnut windowpane Foxdrop run from Fox Brothers late last year and I was stupid not to buy any fabric when I had the chance, I did not realize how much I actually liked the material until it was too late. I asked Fox Brothers whether they had any left and or would be making any more of it and unfortunately they don't have and won't be making any more of it.

Anyhow I am curious if any of you know if there is any of this fabric available anywhere else in the world and or whether there might be a good alternative to be had somewhere else. I'd appreciate any leads. I am a 191 cm 120kg guy so I figure a sportcoat for me would be something like 3 or 3,5 meters?
 

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Simon A

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The London Lounge TW12 cloth is similar in appearance, and probably cheaper. Great dense Shetland, it's my go-to cool weather jacket. London Lounge are talking about another remake of it, plus a lighter coloured tan version.

50305431371_e61c859974_c.jpg
51143400390_799683f4d8_b.jpg
 
Last edited:

Bespoke DJP

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Hello Fellas!

I was thinking for the first time ever to go down the bespoke and or MTM route, however with my own preferred fabric. There was this special Chestnut windowpane Foxdrop run from Fox Brothers late last year and I was stupid not to buy any fabric when I had the chance, I did not realize how much I actually liked the material until it was too late. I asked Fox Brothers whether they had any left and or would be making any more of it and unfortunately they don't have and won't be making any more of it.

Anyhow I am curious if any of you know if there is any of this fabric available anywhere else in the world and or whether there might be a good alternative to be had somewhere else. I'd appreciate any leads. I am a 191 cm 120kg guy so I figure a sportcoat for me would be something like 3 or 3,5 meters?

Hi,

This is a picture from last September, posted in the tumblr of Jean-Manuel Moreau, a men's boutique in Paris. I understand that they do MTM with Orazio Luciano and although I believe that they order specific fabrics following a client's order, things may happen, like a greater-than-needed quantity bought, based on a (ex-post proved-to-be) false market estimate, or just a cancelled jacket's order.

If you have an instagram account, you may drop them a line; they are not in the re-selling fabrics' business, but should they have a length, who knows, they may be willing to accommodate you!

1619866103560.png



Best,

Dimitris
 

Marshak

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Hello Fellas!

I was thinking for the first time ever to go down the bespoke and or MTM route, however with my own preferred fabric. There was this special Chestnut windowpane Foxdrop run from Fox Brothers late last year and I was stupid not to buy any fabric when I had the chance, I did not realize how much I actually liked the material until it was too late. I asked Fox Brothers whether they had any left and or would be making any more of it and unfortunately they don't have and won't be making any more of it.

Anyhow I am curious if any of you know if there is any of this fabric available anywhere else in the world and or whether there might be a good alternative to be had somewhere else. I'd appreciate any leads. I am a 191 cm 120kg guy so I figure a sportcoat for me would be something like 3 or 3,5 meters?
If there is a demand no doubt they'll reweave it and sell it twice the initial price. Agree it's a very nice fabric. I also hesitated to buy it. After reflection, I think it's really bold and not easy to Wear.
 

JFK_88

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Hi,

This is a picture from last September, posted in the tumblr of Jean-Manuel Moreau, a men's boutique in Paris. I understand that they do MTM with Orazio Luciano and although I believe that they order specific fabrics following a client's order, things may happen, like a greater-than-needed quantity bought, based on a (ex-post proved-to-be) false market estimate, or just a cancelled jacket's order.

If you have an instagram account, you may drop them a line; they are not in the re-selling fabrics' business, but should they have a length, who knows, they may be willing to accommodate you!

View attachment 1602697


Best,

Dimitris
Thanks so much for the kind responses and advice so far! I'll contact them and see maybe they have something for me.
 

JFK_88

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If there is a demand no doubt they'll reweave it and sell it twice the initial price. Agree it's a very nice fabric. I also hesitated to buy it. After reflection, I think it's really bold and not easy to Wear.
If there is a demand no doubt they'll reweave it and sell it twice the initial price. Agree it's a very nice fabric. I also hesitated to buy it. After reflection, I think it's really bold and not easy to Wear.
You are right, this is certainly not that easy to wear, but there are options for sure. It sure is bold, then again it can be worn conservatiely without being too much of an italian insta-influencer street shrek look if you catch my meaning :) Casual would be with a simple light blue chambray/denim shirt like Simon Compton often wears and with jeans and lighter suede, brogued oxfords. More elegant would be either dark chocolate brown, dark navy or charcoal flannel pants with a light blue, thin striped poplin or oxford shirt and a navy blue grenadine tie, a dark forest green and or a burgundy colored woven tie. Those would go together nicely in my view with brown cordovan penny loafers and or wingtips.
 

artyom.le.gall

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FYI...Johnston of Elgin Saxony
Width: 150cm.
Weight: 550gms per metre
Vertical Repeat - 7cm
Horizontal Repeat - 5.5cm
Not Treated.
100% Pure New Wool.

1620148344324.png
 

Crispyj

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Hello Fellas!

I was thinking for the first time ever to go down the bespoke and or MTM route, however with my own preferred fabric. There was this special Chestnut windowpane Foxdrop run from Fox Brothers late last year and I was stupid not to buy any fabric when I had the chance, I did not realize how much I actually liked the material until it was too late. I asked Fox Brothers whether they had any left and or would be making any more of it and unfortunately they don't have and won't be making any more of it.

Anyhow I am curious if any of you know if there is any of this fabric available anywhere else in the world and or whether there might be a good alternative to be had somewhere else. I'd appreciate any leads. I am a 191 cm 120kg guy so I figure a sportcoat for me would be something like 3 or 3,5 meters?
I sold my 2meter length to another forum user. Went with Porter and Harding tweed, very similar. Not as tobacco orange, more tan yellow shade. Kind of regret selling it and should have saved it for a future jacket :blush:
PXL_20210308_181402584~2.jpg 1620151283315.png
 

artyom.le.gall

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I sold my 2meter length to another forum user. Went with Porter and Harding tweed, very similar. Not as tobacco orange, more tan yellow shade. Kind of regret selling it and should have saved it for a future jacket :blush:
View attachment 1604487 View attachment 1604488
Compliments on your jacket style, clean execution & tailor choice. Florentine I presume or at least inspired...whose work if I may ask?
 

Crispyj

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Compliments on your jacket style, clean execution & tailor choice. Florentine I presume or at least inspired...whose work if I may ask?
Neapolitan actually haha. Sartoria Pastena. If you look closely, the line is the dart 😂 I asked for the jacket to be cut specifically like that. Credit/Inspiration goes to Sartoria Raffaniello.
 

artyom.le.gall

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None taken.. :) I did miss the dart..and the waist line is very close..still the broad lapels & slightly extended shoulders made me think it’s Florentine inspired. Actually the good Japanese tailors always seem to me Florentine inspired. And it’s not just for the wedge pockets. Great work!
 

Crispyj

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None taken.. :) I did miss the dart..and the waist light is very close..still the broad lapels lapels & slightly extended shoulders make me think it’s Florentine inspired. Actually the good Japanese tailors always look to me Florentine inspired. And it’s not just for the wedge pockets. Great work!
Yea I asked for regular shoulders for that jacket. Here's a Neapolitan shoulder that they normally do and my usual preferred lapel width 😂 12cm
PXL_20201209_023857380~3.jpg
 

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