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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Personally think the quality of the tailor matters more than their ability to do unlimited fittings. If a tailor can nail your pattern with two fittings, why would you want more fittings?

In Texas, I know MyTailor and Steed visit. Steed's prices are roughly what you quoted. MyTailor is a bit less. I think both do good work.
 

rjkabk

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Personally think the quality of the tailor matters more than their ability to do unlimited fittings. If a tailor can nail your pattern with two fittings, why would you want more fittings?

In Texas, I know MyTailor and Steed visit. Steed's prices are roughly what you quoted. MyTailor is a bit less. I think both do good work.
Glad to see some more people from Texas. I live in the Dallas area, and have used Harper and Jones before. They are the closest to bespoke I can find (since apparently Chris Despos doesn’t work here anymore) but their silhouette is too modern for me. I got one suit from them, and while the shoulder/chest/neck hang and fit well (if a bit tight) they fight me on wanting a longer jacket and other styling points so I don’t plan on using them again. Still the construction quality was good, and the prices are good (start at $2k For a suit). Just not my favorite silhouette, but if you like a modern short jacket and tight suit they may fit you. As far as I can tell, and I’m no expert, the rest of the “custom“ suits are really just MTM from local tailors. I know Steed comes to Dallas, as does WW Chan so I’m thinking of giving one of them a try for my next suit when they start traveling again.If anyone knows of any other bespoke tailors in Dallas or that travel please share!
 

FlowableFill

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Eric Jensen with Sartoria Gallo is starting to make trips to Dallas. I think he's going to be there in June next.
 

lordsuperb

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I agree. The W. Bill cloth is fantastic and feel closest to slub denim. I do have a concern it is 21oz (imagine 15hrs transatlantic flight...well I guess ..) hence the H&S Dakota which is only 13Oz may be better fit and also more callers to pick from...and maybe a cavalry suit that I can use as separates as well :)

I agree. The W. Bill cloth is fantastic and feel closest to slub denim. I do have a concern it is 21oz (imagine 15hrs transatlantic ..unless United who freeze) hence the H&S Dakota which is only 13Oz may be better fit and also more colors to pick from...and maybe a cavalry suit that I can use as separates as well :)
My 21 oz trousers are from Dugdale and one of my most worn trousers to date.The 21 oz Calvary twill have a softer, spongier feel to the Dakota Calvary twill.

I’ve also worn them on a transatlantic flight and had no issues.
 

rjkabk

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Eric Jensen with Sartoria Gallo is starting to make trips to Dallas. I think he's going to be there in June next.
Hmm I like some of the pictures I am seeing on the internet. I think I could consider them. Outside of their website obviously, anywhere else I could go to find out more info?
 

FlowableFill

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Hmm I like some of the pictures I am seeing on the internet. I think I could consider them. Outside of their website obviously, anywhere else I could go to find out more info?
He's done a bunch of videos with Kirby Allison, they're on Kirby's youtube channel. They're pretty informative.
 

aristoi bcn

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Not to completely derail, but this pic of Mr. Ferry is a prime example where "rules" or more specifically SF "rules" are not hard and fast. He looks great, but he has no shirt cuff showing, his lapels look to be pressed flat, and he looks to have a good amount of things stuffed into his pockets, plus his breast pocket is sagging. Yet he still looks great. Then again, the accessory of a magnum of Moet doesn't hurt.....
That's because those rules are incidental. That coat has a perfect shoulder and lapel width, it sticks to the neck, the button position is where it should be, lengths is proper for a man of his height, etc.
 

bdavro23

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How eye wateringly expensive is Loro Piana overcoating?


I have been kicking around outerwear as an idea, and this type of non-gold shade is one of the ideas I have percolating
I have an overcoat in the blue version of this cloth. Current prices are around $300/ yard.
 

dieworkwear

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That's because those rules are incidental. That coat has a perfect shoulder and lapel width, it sticks to the neck, the button position is where it should be, lengths is proper for a man of his height, etc.
I think it might be because he's a legendary British musician who founded one of the most influential rock bands.
 

Sreezy36

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collar gap
Lol, I noticed that too on his Fresco suit made by Sartoria Gallo nyc. Tbh, Sartoria Gallo Nyc seems very passionate and I am sure he is very capable of doing quality work. However, I really don’t care for his silhouette nor was I impressed with the work he did for Kirby Allison. Kirby’s mytailor and despos suits look much better.
 

lordsuperb

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Lol, I noticed that too on his Fresco suit made by Sartoria Gallo nyc. Tbh, Sartoria Gallo Nyc seems very passionate and I am sure he is very capable of doing quality work. However, I really don’t care for his silhouette nor was I impressed with the work he did for Kirby Allison. Kirby’s mytailor and despos suits look much better.
His work will improve as he gets more clients.
 

aristoi bcn

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I think it might be because he's a legendary British musician who founded one of the most influential rock bands.
To be honest, I think I never heard any music from him that I know, I'm more into classical music.

But the suit looks great, albeit he's a tall and thin man, which helps.
 

dieworkwear

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To be honest, I think I never heard any music from him that I know, I'm more into classical music.

But the suit looks great, albeit he's a tall and thin man, which helps.
Would you have the same assessment of this photo?

Cool, unwavering style? Or a guy who needs to have his suit pressed and show some shirt cuffs?

(Imagine this photo not taking place against a backdrop of a fancy Moet event. Imagine he's just hanging out in his apartment).


tumblr_mfjnqp55xj1ri8xzao1_1280.jpeg
 

Sreezy36

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Personally think the quality of the tailor matters more than their ability to do unlimited fittings. If a tailor can nail your pattern with two fittings, why would you want more fittings?

In Texas, I know MyTailor and Steed visit. Steed's prices are roughly what you quoted. MyTailor is a bit less. I think both do good work.
Traveling tailor is eventually the route I would like to go. Tailors such as Steven Hitchcock, Steed, and Redmayne (Tom Mahon) are my preferences. However, I have a couple of concerns. My first concern pertains to availability. Generally, traveling tailors may visit once or twice a year to my area at a maximum. With my unusual body type I may require an abnormal amount of fittings initially. With the tailors traveling schedule, multiple fittings seem like they can become more complicated. My second concern is in regards to maintenance. Very underestimated aspect of bespoke. Adjustments and refittings also seem like they can become more complicated due to the lack of availability from the traveling tailor.
 

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