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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

ValidusLA

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@dieworkwear Unfortunately I’m one of those guys with an “unusual build”. 46/47 chest with a 33/34 inch waist. Rtw isn’t an option for me and I am terrified of mtm suits/jackets. It’s bad to the point where if I attempt to try rtw, jackets with un padded natural shoulders are the only passable option.
I started seeking bespoke about a decade ago for the same reason (back then i was 46-34, now I'm like 46-36 because age is a cruel mistress....and I've gotten lazy). A large drop is a legitimate reason.

However I think DWW's point is still somewhat salient. The risk of a "do whatever" "bespoke" tailor, where price is the only selling factor, is that without a guiding hand at the beginning I think its really easy to go astray and end up with either weird garments or garments that are incongruent to themselves.

I also think doing a DB as a first go with an unknown tailor isn't super optimal. Even looking beyond the fact that a SB jacket is going to be more versatile, I would want a pattern maker to dial in my SB before I gave them DB business.
 

ValidusLA

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I know you've been suggesting sportcoats w/ jeans more lately, DWW, and I'm usually like 2 years late to your things, but I'm gonna pass on on that. I don't even think I have what could be considered chinos, just a series of gray and cream to brown dress trousers in mostly wool, but some cotton and linen where appropriate. I'll be using Spier & Mackay, and their current SB peak lapel looks like this:
IMO that jacket is awful. Peak lapels. Patch pockets. White buttons. Choose a lane.
 

Sreezy36

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I started seeking bespoke about a decade ago for the same reason (back then i was 46-34, now I'm like 46-36 because age is a cruel mistress....and I've gotten lazy). A large drop is a legitimate reason.

However I think DWW's point is still somewhat salient. The risk of a "do whatever" "bespoke" tailor, where price is the only selling factor, is that without a guiding hand at the beginning I think its really easy to go astray and end up with either weird garments or garments that are incongruent to themselves.

I also think doing a DB as a first go with an unknown tailor isn't super optimal. Even looking beyond the fact that a SB jacket is going to be more versatile, I would want a pattern maker to dial in my SB before I gave them DB business.
Currently, I live in Houston and there are really only two viable local options. Both tailors I’m interested haven’t shown me anything super interesting in terms of the single breasted “house style.” However, the are highly recommended in the city and experienced high quality tailors. For my first bespoke suit I would rather not work with a traveling tailor because it’s easier to do unlimited fittings with a local tailor. As far as price, both tailors are comparable in price and are starting at around 4K.
 

Despos

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@dieworkwear and @Despos:

For a first time bespoke customer/client, which suit/jacket style or silhouette is the easiest to perfect in general. A double breasted or single breasted?... my initial thought is that a double breasted would be easier to get right on the first commission because the aesthetic has to “look right” or fit properly ONLY while the jacket is buttoned. In contrast, the single breasted aesthetic has to perfected BOTH while being buttoned and unbuttoned(open).
outcome related to proficiency of the tailor at executing either style.
 

Andy57

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I wouldn't call that a stub! But I just re-read your post about the doubly-odd jacket (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/02/22/the-doubly-odd-jacket/) and I'm wondering if I'd be better off making this my first double-breasted jacket. I'm sure @Andy57 has a thing or two to say about cream jackets in these various configurations.
I'm not sure what I'm expected to say. I like double-breasted jackets. I like cream/ivory jackets. I like cream/ivory double-breasted jackets. I also have a cream single-breasted jacket. I have a lot of double-breasted jackets. I recommend them.
 

circumspice

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How eye wateringly expensive is Loro Piana overcoating?


I have been kicking around outerwear as an idea, and this type of non-gold shade is one of the ideas I have percolating
 

jonathanS

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This thread is basically

1. Recommendations to Fresco or Mock Leno
2. Bickering about London Lounge or Fox Brothers prices
3. Telling people they should consult their tailor.

That's literally it.

Staying on topic, what do we recommend Fox Brothers Heritage Flannel? or LL's Flannel?
 

artyom.le.gall

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@artyom.le.gall I like the jacket but hate the pant selection. If you are trying to incorporate the rust color I would capture it in the pocket square or tie. Stick to the calvary twill.....

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I agree. The W. Bill cloth is fantastic and feel closest to slub denim. I do have a concern it is 21oz (imagine 15hrs transatlantic flight...well I guess ..) hence the H&S Dakota which is only 13Oz may be better fit and also more callers to pick from...and maybe a cavalry suit that I can use as separates as well :)
@artyom.le.gall I like the jacket but hate the pant selection. If you are trying to incorporate the rust color I would capture it in the pocket square or tie. Stick to the calvary twill.....

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I agree. The W. Bill cloth is fantastic and feel closest to slub denim. I do have a concern it is 21oz (imagine 15hrs transatlantic ..unless United who freeze) hence the H&S Dakota which is only 13Oz may be better fit and also more colors to pick from...and maybe a cavalry suit that I can use as separates as well :)
 

artyom.le.gall

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Going from jeans and black t-shirts to tailored clothing is quite a contrast.
Suggest backtracking and find/determine the silhouette and cut of jacket that you want. This should complement your physique and personality. Best for you to learn your preferences and be able to articulate your preferences when you work with a tailor.
Tailors are known for the silhouette they make. Knowing your preferences will help you identify what tailor to choose.
It's optimal that details of the cut and style of a jacket compliment your body type and your personal aesthetic.
Do you look best with soft shoulders or do you have sloping shoulders that would look better with structure and padding?
Do you have posture issues or an athletic build that are difficult to fit?
Are you comfortable in a fitted, close to the body jackets or prefer ease and drape?
Do you feel comfortable with the details and lines of the jacket or does it feel like the jacket is wearing you?
Do you want a formal attitude to the cut or slouchy, relaxed?
Do you want everything in the same silhouette and does it reflect your life style?
Is what you pick appropriate for the social or business situations you are dressing for?
All this can be communicated in the silhouette you prefer. When you establish these points then picking the cloth becomes easier.
Do you need suits? How dressy or casual should they be?
Do you want a collection of odd jackets that work for multiple social situations?
What you wear should be appropriate to the mood of the event.
If you want a slouchy or relaxed look, bold plaids in worsteds is not compatible.
If you need a professional look, tweeds and cords aren't right.
How much time and effort do you want to apply to dressing?
Know your style and purpose of dressing and the decisions become easier. Know your body type and fitting issues and you will discover the silhouette that works for you and your lifestyle.
Trying to lessen the learning curve so you get where you want to go and avoid too many regrets.
@Despos many thanks!!
 

stuffedsuperdud

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I know you've been suggesting sportcoats w/ jeans more lately, DWW, and I'm usually like 2 years late to your things, but I'm gonna pass on on that. I don't even think I have what could be considered chinos, just a series of gray and cream to brown dress trousers in mostly wool, but some cotton and linen where appropriate. I'll be using Spier & Mackay, and their current SB peak lapel looks like this:
View attachment 1601903
I wouldn't call that a stub! But I just re-read your post about the doubly-odd jacket (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/02/22/the-doubly-odd-jacket/) and I'm wondering if I'd be better off making this my first double-breasted jacket. I'm sure @Andy57 has a thing or two to say about cream jackets in these various configurations.

Also thanks everyone for their advice about Marling & Evans. Ordered a couple swatches and wasn't terribly impressed the netherton and other basketweave clothes were not as knit-like as I'd hoped. I ended up MTM-ing a navy seersucker suit w/ Minnis cotton instead
I think a cream SBPL jacket would look too much like a warm-weather dinner jacket. At the risk of seeming boring or cowardly, this might be a good time for your standard 2-button notch lapel with soft shoulders and patch pockets. Linen jackets will already stand out because in this day and age, 60 years after the orgy of Riviera Chic depicted in The Talented Mr. Ripley, if you're in a linen sportcoat situation, odds are everyone around you is wearing t-shirts, shorts, and disgusting flipflops. Better to keep things subtle and boring than to get too adventurous and make up a costume garment that you end up not liking, especially since it sounds like you're keeping your wardrobe relatively lean.
 

aristoi bcn

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Cream linen odd jacket is a summer classic but I would always advise to get a shade darker linen suit that can wear as separates. Plain or patterned (houndstooth or PoW) in a biscuit shade is more versatile imo.

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hpreston

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Cream linen odd jacket is a summer classic but I would always advise to get a shade darker linen suit that can wear as separates. Plain or patterned (houndstooth or PoW) in a biscuit shade is more versatile imo.

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Not to completely derail, but this pic of Mr. Ferry is a prime example where "rules" or more specifically SF "rules" are not hard and fast. He looks great, but he has no shirt cuff showing, his lapels look to be pressed flat, and he looks to have a good amount of things stuffed into his pockets, plus his breast pocket is sagging. Yet he still looks great. Then again, the accessory of a magnum of Moet doesn't hurt.....
 

losrockets

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Appreciate all the input everyone. I have swung back and forth on the cream jacket thing. I think I'll wait a few years, maybe let some gray hairs come in, and see if life takes me someplace where such a garment wouldn't raise as many eyebrows as in Houston. @artyom.le.gall I don't think highly of the tailors here based on visits to their stores to see the house cut -- I considered going to Dallas to meet w/ a traveling tailor (and you just missed MyTailor/Hemrajani in Houston!) because I have a 42/32 drop, but wound up flying to Toronto a few years ago to get fitted for MTM by Spier & Mackay because their OTR was a close enough fit. If you can find a company that has a decent fitting OTR and also offers MTM, I would recommend that route.
 

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