Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[artyom.le.gall]

Dear @artyom.le.gall,

I always prefer Zegna Cashco, as cashmere makes all the difference.

They used to have a dark brown with red undertones, really nice IRL and far more versatile than dark rust. A mid-brown with an interesting shade might do the job as well.

Zegna CashCo - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

Zegna CashCo - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

Best,

Dimitris

Thanks Dimitris! Carmel it is! Had I had to pick one by myself (just with a suit in mind) I would probably be tempted for a more honey like color.
And oh.. just saw Tom Mahon video demonstrating that cords should be made against the grain. I say.. Live & Learn

 

[Sreezy36]

Already extended the shoulder an inch and dropped the buttoning point an inch compared to previous coats. It's really the camera angle this time! View attachment 1600985

Tbh, it’s difficult to critique restroom partial body mirror pics. And although I am no expert on bespoke tailoring or the characteristics of a perfect fit in reference to your body type, the shoulder and buttoning stance look fine to me. The only elements that are throwing me off are the smoke mop buttons. Mop buttons definitely wouldn’t be my first choice. However, they really aren’t an issue as buttons can always easily be changed.

 

[Despos]

Thanks! Indeed It looks like really dark is key. Which suggests a dark brown (here's a 8 wale Brisbane Moss) or maybe even a brown with orange melange from Dugdale's Flannel Traveler collection mentioned above may just work..? That kinds of creates an earthly autumonal split complementary, though somehow feel heavy to me. Maybe just a nappy dark jeans with brown flannel shirt or more elegantly a rollneck may just do with less of a headache. FYI..Adobe color web application at color.adobe.com has the capability to extract color theme, gradient, etc. I found it interesting and useful to my needs..
View attachment 1600373 View attachment 1600371

This pic on the left of Vox was taken from the MTM thread and is close to what I would advise.
There is a harmony between the jacket and trouser on the left and one part doesn't stand apart or contrast with the other. If you do a dark trouser with your plaid cloth you get a more contrasting, louder look in the jacket and a dark solid counter part with the trouser and lose the harmony. You want the trouser color to compliment/support the jacket and not compete with it. The eye is seeing two separate things. Close to this shade of brown as a trouser would compliment the jacket without emboldening it and give a softer harmonious/cohesive look. It works because the contrast is in the jacket pattern and not a second bold contrast with the trouser.
Submitting the second pic on the right as an example when it doesn't work. The jacket pattern is not a high contrast of colors and with the mid grey trouser it turns the look muddy.
No offense to the owner

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Well, since our eyes are above the bespoke microscope, here are a few comments on the left image posted by @Despos above:

a) the trousers are quite distressed, would suggest the gentleman to use them only in a more casual use, and not combined with a SC which, in its turn, seems OK.

b) although I understand the assorted tie rationale, I find it sub-optimal; a solid knit one, either silk, or wool, cashmere mix would be a far better choice.

c) the gloss, flashy crock belt has burned my eyes; a dark brown suede would be miles more tasteful and appropriate.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Despos]

Well, since our eyes are above the bespoke microscope, here are a few comments on the left image posted by @Despos above:

a) the trousers are quite distressed, would suggest the gentleman to use them only in a more casual use, and not combined with a SC which, in its turn, seems OK.

b) although I understand the assorted tie rationale, I find it sub-optimal; a solid knit one, either silk, or wool, cashmere mix would be a far better choice.

c) the gloss, flashy crock belt has burned my eyes; a dark brown suede would be miles more tasteful and appropriate.

Cheers,
Dimitris

Think he is considering using corduroy and should heed your observations. Cords would not be as cohesive a cloth choice. Agree with all your points

 

[circumspice]

The shirt + tie Vox is wearing there look a little more polished than the trousers. It may be that the shirt's texture has been lost to the .jpg gods, and it is kinda bleached out by the overhead light - perhaps it is some chambray with some texture. I think those trousers could work with the jacket with an OBCD and an askew knit tie, but the shirt + tie looks a bit too suit-friendly

 

[artyom.le.gall]

@Despos, @Dimitris,
It prove to be an immensely intriguing exercise.And while similar honey below the texture indeed comes into effect. Personally, I think Vox balance his costumes brilliantly. It seems, by common wisdom, having a darker jacket is easier; and the jacket color is neutral. The tie IMHO works as a perfect bridge connecting top/bottom parts into a story and the jacket just frames it. And while I find handkerchiefs to be dandy..it correspond rather nicely with the belt push it into the background. But I am not Vox so maybe I should just give up and go for something more natural along @Dieworker Sand proposal or just a blue that may just blend in..

 

[dieworkwear]

Given the cost of bespoke, if I was this unsure of how to wear a jacketing, I would just move on to a different cloth. There are many fabrics out there that don't require this kind of thinking.

I have a couple of jackets that are very specific and require very specific trouser pairings. I sometimes wear them because I want to get the most out of my purchase and/ or I want to wear something different that day. But most of the time, I just reach for my easier coats.

 

[Despos]

Given the cost of bespoke, if I was this unsure of how to wear a jacketing, I would just move on to a different cloth. There are many fabrics out there that don't require this kind of thinking.

I have a couple of jackets that are very specific and require very specific trouser pairings. I sometimes wear them because I want to get the most out of my purchase and/ or I want to wear something different that day. But most of the time, I just reach for my easier coats.

Yep, thats a hard jacket to wear especially if you only have a few To choose from.

 

[The Chai]

This pic on the left of Vox was taken from the MTM thread and is close to what I would advise.
There is a harmony between the jacket and trouser on the left and one part doesn't stand apart or contrast with the other. If you do a dark trouser with your plaid cloth you get a more contrasting, louder look in the jacket and a dark solid counter part with the trouser and lose the harmony. You want the trouser color to compliment/support the jacket and not compete with it. The eye is seeing two separate things. Close to this shade of brown as a trouser would compliment the jacket without emboldening it and give a softer harmonious/cohesive look. It works because the contrast is in the jacket pattern and not a second bold contrast with the trouser.
Submitting the second pic on the right as an example when it doesn't work. The jacket pattern is not a high contrast of colors and with the mid grey trouser it turns the look muddy.
No offense to the owner

None taken. It is my first ever patterned commission and I'm still learning

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Yep, thats a hard jacket to wear especially if you only have a few To choose from.

Well..the cloth seem to be remarkably charming in its purchased digital representation. I am waiting my next trip to Europe to make it. However I am not sure I am ready to give up and make it a table cloth, not yet at least. It does teaches teaches me a lesson on the limitations of digital in this new environment.

Last but not least, I am not limiting my search to cords...so all advises are welcome...though I rather go casual and whites are well so Rosh Hashana..

 

[classicalthunde]

However I am not sure I am ready to give up and make it a table cloth, not yet at least. It does teaches teaches me a lesson on the limitations of digital in this new environment.

All in all, I'd rather spend $200-300 on a fabric length that I realize doesn't quite work and still be able to sell it on B&S and recoup some of my losses rather than spend $2-3K on a bespoke jacket in that fabric that doesn't quite work that I really wont be able to offload for anything close to its cost.

I always need to find my impulse demons, and I feel that sometime purchasing a fabric length is an effective hedge against that vs. picking some out their pattern when visiting a tailor amidst the excitement of getting something made that I realize in after a couple of wears doesn't quite work for me...

 

[reidd]

Given the cost of bespoke, if I was this unsure of how to wear a jacketing, I would just move on to a different cloth. There are many fabrics out there that don't require this kind of thinking.

I have a couple of jackets that are very specific and require very specific trouser pairings. I sometimes wear them because I want to get the most out of my purchase and/ or I want to wear something different that day. But most of the time, I just reach for my easier coats.

I agree. I'm to the point in my wardrobe where I have pretty much all the basics and would really like to get some more interesting/exciting cloths but am still finding it hard to justify the wearability opportunity cost vs another blue/brown plain option. Wardrobes are like martinis; your ratio of exciting patterns to boring solids/textures should be something like your vermouth to gin ratio. I.e. at most 1/4.

 

[lordsuperb]

You people have no vision.

 

[reidd]

You people have no vision.

To be clear, I love that Fox cloth. That one definitely makes the exciting pattern cut.

I would wear that with: cream, grey and brown trousers. And depending on the cut of the jacket, I would probably rock it with jeans also.