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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

zr3rs

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I appreciate your knowledgeable contribution. Baird McNutt clothes seem very affordable but don't have the thickness (around 11oz) that I want for this jacket. I might use cloth of them later for other pieces.
Keep in mind that they specify weight as g per square meter (and not running meter), if I remember correctly. You have to multiply by 1.5. I have Glenariff (at approx 400g per running meter) and I can recommend it.
 

bdavro23

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Keep in mind that they specify weight as g per square meter (and not running meter), if I remember correctly. You have to multiply by 1.5. I have Glenariff (at approx 400g per running meter) and I can recommend it.
Just to be pedantic, you have to multiply by the width of the cloth, which isnt necessarily 150 cm.
 

paborden

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IMG_8301.PNG


Anyone by chance know where I could source something like this? Love it, but prefer to work with my regular tailor.
 

SimonC

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Anyone by chance know where I could source something like this? Love it, but prefer to work with my regular tailor.
Let me check later today, I think I have something similar.
 

ChasingStyle

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View attachment 1591510

Anyone by chance know where I could source something like this? Love it, but prefer to work with my regular tailor.
Check out Dashing Tweeds, they have a similar ochre herringbone



 

SimonC

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Clearing out my excessive fabric stash to make some space if anyone here is keen! International/local (Singapore) shipping at cost.

Details and pricing info is tagged for each photo if you click on info (top right corner):
That Wain D'Or is amazing. As well as sounding like a provincial nightclub bouncer...
 

WhereNext

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Looping back to some questions I asked earlier: ahhhh, the benefits of being able to get swatches delivered quickly! I'm looking to get some summer stuff and was able to get some swatches from Fox Air and City and Minnis Fresco III.
1) Found out the scale of the windowpane on a Fox Air cloth I was looking at for a sportscoat is about 50% bigger than any other windowpane cloth I currently have. Colors are great, and the scale isn't bad by any means, but it would have been a bit of surprise if the jacket came made up in that without seeing the cloth first.
2) Another point on scale: the differences in the patterns in the Minnis vs. Fox cloths is something that becomes immediately apparent when you have them in hand. As with the windowpane, the scale of the Fox glen plaid is much bigger than the Minnis (as shown in the picture). I'm going with a Fox City suit to be made up for Autumn (not one of the two in the picture) because I actually liked the larger scale, buy wouldn't have known that from online swatches.
3) It's crazy how PoW/glen plaids can be simultaneously incredibly similar and yet noticeably different....swatches helped here, but it can drive you a bit batty trying to pick based on the smallest differences.
Anyway, successful haul of swatches as picked out a light to mid-grey chalkstripe Fox Air and a blue + black PoW for the next two summer suits, as well as a nice mid-grey glen plaid in Fox City for Autumn.

IMG_0948.jpg
 

Concordia

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The Air and City have pretty similar write-ups on their site. Do you feel a difference?
 

WhereNext

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The Air and City have pretty similar write-ups on their site. Do you feel a difference?
Well, I'll slap a big ol' disclaimer here to the effect that I'm far from the most sophisticated of cloth examiners, but....
The City cloth is slightly less transparent when held up to the light than the Air cloth and seems to have a slightly smoother texture. The Air and Fresco seemed to have about the same amount of opacity, with the City being the most opaque (but still showing some light through).
The Fresco III, Fox Air, and Fox City are roughly the same weight, but I would say that there Fresco is the roughest, then the Air, then the City; the difference between the Air and City is slight, but the difference between the City and Fresco is fairly clear.
My two other Fresco suits (made in/from 2012 versions of Fresco, not the Fresco III) seem to be stiffer and scratchier than the Fresco III in the same weight, though that's off of memory as those two suits are currently on a big boat on its journey from South Africa to the US, so others may feel differently (and be right!).

Hope that's useful!
 

artyom.le.gall

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Hi,
I am wondering about Piazenca1773, in particular books targeting spring/summer . It seems approach is premium e.g. very lightweight Cashmere mixes for summer cloth...their Summer Verve wool/silk more common for Italian fabric mixes..at any rate any experience with any of Piacenza books ?

thanks!
 

GaiusM

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Two questions, not sure if this is the proper thread to ask them.

Trying to decide on Tweed or Flannel for the next sport coat. Three season wear in a fairly cold climate. I already have one tweed jacket and it works well at keeping me warm and dry. How does flannel fare comparatively, particularly heavier ones (i.e. Fox 350g+), in the cold? Aside from softness/roughness what are the qualitative differences? Any flannel recommendations aside from Fox Brothers? I like tweed plenty but the few flannels I tried on and felt have seemed like being wrapped in a big fluffy blanket, seems great for the cooler times of year.

Second (unrelated) question. Does the following fabric seem like it would be appropriate for a lightweight sport coat or should it be strictly used for suits? Smith Woolens Abacus SW6201 for those interested. Posting a few pics as it seems to change hue in various lights.
abacus6201 1.jpgabacus6201 5.jpgabacus6201 4.jpgabacus6201 2.jpg
 

classicalthunde

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Two questions, not sure if this is the proper thread to ask them.

Trying to decide on Tweed or Flannel for the next sport coat. Three season wear in a fairly cold climate. I already have one tweed jacket and it works well at keeping me warm and dry. How does flannel fare comparatively, particularly heavier ones (i.e. Fox 350g+), in the cold? Aside from softness/roughness what are the qualitative differences? Any flannel recommendations aside from Fox Brothers? I like tweed plenty but the few flannels I tried on and felt have seemed like being wrapped in a big fluffy blanket, seems great for the cooler times of year.

Second (unrelated) question. Does the following fabric seem like it would be appropriate for a lightweight sport coat or should it be strictly used for suits? Smith Woolens Abacus SW6201 for those interested. Posting a few pics as it seems to change hue in various lights.
View attachment 1595127View attachment 1595136View attachment 1595137View attachment 1595138
Don't have any flannel jackets, but I reflexively think of of flannel as better for suits and trousers, and tweed as better for an odd jacket. I would also assume that a heavy tweed is probably a bit more durable than a similar weight woolen flannel

Have you considered Harrisons Moonbeam? It has a soft hand like flannel but is more durable I believe. There are a few blue overchecks in there that would be great for a sport coat.

My understanding is that SW Abacus is suiting rather than jacketing fabric
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Two questions, not sure if this is the proper thread to ask them.

Trying to decide on Tweed or Flannel for the next sport coat. Three season wear in a fairly cold climate. I already have one tweed jacket and it works well at keeping me warm and dry. How does flannel fare comparatively, particularly heavier ones (i.e. Fox 350g+), in the cold? Aside from softness/roughness what are the qualitative differences? Any flannel recommendations aside from Fox Brothers? I like tweed plenty but the few flannels I tried on and felt have seemed like being wrapped in a big fluffy blanket, seems great for the cooler times of year.

Second (unrelated) question. Does the following fabric seem like it would be appropriate for a lightweight sport coat or should it be strictly used for suits? Smith Woolens Abacus SW6201 for those interested. Posting a few pics as it seems to change hue in various lights.
View attachment 1595127View attachment 1595136View attachment 1595137View attachment 1595138
As others have said, I think of flannel as better for suits and trousers, not sport coats. The blue fabric you posted looks like suiting to me.

If you really want to use a flannel-like cloth, you can check out doeskin, which is sort of like flannel without the nap. I think it works better for odd jackets.

A friend of mine, who's very well dressed, has a couple of flannel sport coats. I've seen him in them and think he looks great. But he has such a massive wardrobe. A flannel sport coat isn't something I'd recommend to someone just starting to build a wardrobe.
 

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