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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    No I didn't order it... I wear suits far more than sports coats and he only had 2.5 meters. Even if he had a suit length I would have passed, I have something similar, and I tend to prefer darker suits so my next few commissions will be in that direction. He showed it to me when I asked about heavyweight worsteds (I waslooking for something a bit heavier.) But it looked very, very nice. I'm sure it will make for a great suit.
     
  2. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Its Barbera for Lesser - gorgeous stuff - 13oz.
     
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    So WW Chan is on tour... anyone have any navy wool (preferably fresco)? I'd love to take it off your hands.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2012
  4. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Grammaton and Tim_Horton, does this look like it? I've seen so many swatches I can't remember what I ordered! :embar: See NYR and courty posts below:
     
  5. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Chan does not accept fabric from its clients. If you want fresco, Chan will have it.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Won't do you much good if you're using Chan.

    They're incredibly strict about the no CMT rule. I ask every 12 months just for fun and they always write me a serious email back saying they won't do it as a matter of policy.
     
  7. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Yes that's the fabric I was thinking of. If it was darker I'd have been all over it like an SF poster on special-run fabric.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Oh shit, I think I read that once before. Totally lame.
     
  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Chan used to accept CMT but I suspect that there was an event that pushed them to create their current policy of no-CMT.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2012
  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    gopherblue - yes, that is the one!
     
  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I suspect it was a forumer. From what I can gather something went wrong with a CMT job, as can happen, but then the valued customer tried to get them to compensate him for what he decided was a priceless / irreplaceable piece of cloth.

    But yes - they will have Minnis and Crispaire books with them. If they don't bring the Harrison's fresco they can at least order it.
     
  12. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    It's real shame about Chan policy on CMT. I dearly would love them to work on some of my London Lounge Cloths.
     
  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Hi guys - can anyone tell me the size of the tattersall check on the 571 in the Minnis Fresco II ?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    For future issues, can't you get them to order the cloth from Lovat for you?
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I tried that and they weren't too keen on it / kinda refused to do it. I didn't try too hard though.
     
  16. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    They may do it if they get enough request, certainly more doable for the Fox flannel since there is a flannel book out by Alden.

    Meanwhile I've taken most of my LLC to Gordon Yao and I know a few of LL members are doing the same.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2012
  17. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I've read that as well, but I'm convinced that their decision not to accept CMT is also motivated (if not in full, then at least partially) by their mark-ups on the fabrics. I know, for a fact the cost price of two fabrics I was interested in. When I inquired with Chan about the prices of two coats, the price differential was not the 20 pounds per meter X say, 3 meters (60 pounds). It was more along the lines of a mark up of 350 pounds (555 USD).

    And this is just on the price differential of 20 GBP/M.

    The earnings from three fabrics = a suit. At no additional labor.

    But, they do a good job.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2012
  18. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Gordon Yao has always been very nice about accepting cloth from me. Although, they've expanded their cloth selection significantly in the past year or two, making sourcing my own stuff much less of an issue.
     
  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    There's a pretty simple way around that though. Just add the cloth markup to the CMT price. It's still a lower number than labor + cloth and I'm sure there are two dozen fanboys here who would gladly pay it to get their LL or Top Tip treasures made up.

    The last time I asked them about it, I propsed some rules so there'd be no confusion - anything goes wrong with the cloth and I just eat the cost of that. I'll order something else paying for the new cloth out of the book. Still weren't interested.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2012
  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    That is true, but you don't know how much they'd charge for CMT since they don't do CMT. Hence you can't really add the cost of the fabric to their 'non-existent' CMT price.

    You proposed to eat the cost if anything goes wrong, and they refused to bite. Kind of eliminates that excuse as being the reason for them not accepting CMT doesn't it. Bolsters the point about the earning on cloth,

    But hey, that's their business model - they probably have too much business to handle, hence that's their way of 'choosing their clients'.
     

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