- Oct 7, 2015
- Reaction score
Mostly for leisure here as I dislike wearing suits for work. I veer towards mohair or silk these days as I find those fabrics have character and dont look out of place in winter or summer (discounting extreme winters here where cold can be countered with sweaters and overcoats) plus I'm obsessed with textures, drape and slubs. Most standard worsteds bore me. I like the idea I can wear crewnecks, turtlenecks, knitted tees, oxfords or linen shirts with all these configurations and they will look at home.Question for this fun crew: you can only have 3 suits and 3 sport coats for a four season geographic....what fabrics do you choose and why?
1. Midnight blue mohair bateman ogden barathea 320-340g dj shawl lapel sb with black shantung facings cause and cocktail cuffs because I love my black tie. The bateman ogden mohair barathea drape is better than most of the other baratheas I've tried. There's alot of heft and volume.
2. Navy/midnight blue slubby silk herringbone from edmorel or bennetts silk 260-300g in 3 roll 2 notch 2 patch neapolitan styled suit because its boss and looks at home in winter or summer and can wear jacket as separates. Dark mop buttons and roping
3. Whatever the grey in between light grey and mid grey 280-320g (charcoal just looks too wintery for me) in a halstead kid mohair or dormeuil tonik. Something for business or summer weddings. Looks boss and understated. 3 roll 2 with notch or Parisian lapel, roping, flapped pockets and dark grey mother of pearl buttons. Think 90s brioni power suit cut. Who doesn't want to look like Sean Connery's bond or Michael corleone in godfather part 2...funnily enough this is the only suit configuration on this list missing from my wardrobe. I do not currently own a grey suit....
1. Dark navy dormeuil traveller heavy mohair hopsack/fresco 450g 3 roll 2 triple patch with notch lapel, green grey corozo or dark mother of pearl buttons and roped shoulders as blazer/sports coat
2. Cream silk/mohair sbpl or 6x2 db in hopsack or herringbone weave 280-320g with roped shoulder. Scabal, dormeuil, halsteads or bennett silks for fabric source. Surprisingly versatile piece. Can wear with virtually any color trousers. Navy for formal black tie. Jean's for smart casual. Light grey or white linen for summer beach parties. As much as I love a full cream suit, the jacket or trousers individually get more use.
3. Dark brown/chocolate heavy linen with big herringbone 450-480g from ulsters. The heavy linen herringbone weave ensures it does not look or feel out of place in winter. 3 roll 2 neapolitan styled triple patch with dark brown horn, lapel tabs and western action back hybrid.