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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

The Chai

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Question for this fun crew: you can only have 3 suits and 3 sport coats for a four season geographic....what fabrics do you choose and why?
Mostly for leisure here as I dislike wearing suits for work. I veer towards mohair or silk these days as I find those fabrics have character and dont look out of place in winter or summer (discounting extreme winters here where cold can be countered with sweaters and overcoats) plus I'm obsessed with textures, drape and slubs. Most standard worsteds bore me. I like the idea I can wear crewnecks, turtlenecks, knitted tees, oxfords or linen shirts with all these configurations and they will look at home.
Suits
1. Midnight blue mohair bateman ogden barathea 320-340g dj shawl lapel sb with black shantung facings cause and cocktail cuffs because I love my black tie. The bateman ogden mohair barathea drape is better than most of the other baratheas I've tried. There's alot of heft and volume.
2. Navy/midnight blue slubby silk herringbone from edmorel or bennetts silk 260-300g in 3 roll 2 notch 2 patch neapolitan styled suit because its boss and looks at home in winter or summer and can wear jacket as separates. Dark mop buttons and roping
3. Whatever the grey in between light grey and mid grey 280-320g (charcoal just looks too wintery for me) in a halstead kid mohair or dormeuil tonik. Something for business or summer weddings. Looks boss and understated. 3 roll 2 with notch or Parisian lapel, roping, flapped pockets and dark grey mother of pearl buttons. Think 90s brioni power suit cut. Who doesn't want to look like Sean Connery's bond or Michael corleone in godfather part 2...funnily enough this is the only suit configuration on this list missing from my wardrobe. I do not currently own a grey suit....

Sports coat
1. Dark navy dormeuil traveller heavy mohair hopsack/fresco 450g 3 roll 2 triple patch with notch lapel, green grey corozo or dark mother of pearl buttons and roped shoulders as blazer/sports coat
2. Cream silk/mohair sbpl or 6x2 db in hopsack or herringbone weave 280-320g with roped shoulder. Scabal, dormeuil, halsteads or bennett silks for fabric source. Surprisingly versatile piece. Can wear with virtually any color trousers. Navy for formal black tie. Jean's for smart casual. Light grey or white linen for summer beach parties. As much as I love a full cream suit, the jacket or trousers individually get more use.
3. Dark brown/chocolate heavy linen with big herringbone 450-480g from ulsters. The heavy linen herringbone weave ensures it does not look or feel out of place in winter. 3 roll 2 neapolitan styled triple patch with dark brown horn, lapel tabs and western action back hybrid.
 
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reidd

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Mostly for leisure here as I dislike wearing suits for work. I veer towards mohair or silk these days as I find those fabrics have character and dont look out of place in winter or summer (discounting extreme winters here where cold can be countered with sweaters and overcoats) plus I'm obsessed with textures, drape and slubs. Most standard worsteds bore me. I like the idea I can wear crewnecks, turtlenecks, knitted tees, oxfords or linen shirts with all these configurations and they will look at home.
Suits
1. Midnight blue mohair bateman ogden barathea 320-340g dj shawl lapel sb with black shantung facings cause and cocktail cuffs because I love my black tie. The bateman ogden mohair barathea drape is better than most of the other baratheas I've tried. There's alot of heft and volume.
2. Navy/midnight blue slubby silk herringbone from edmorel or bennetts silk 260-300g in 3 roll 2 notch 2 patch neapolitan styled suit because its boss and looks at home in winter or summer and can wear jacket as separates. Dark mop buttons and roping
3. Whatever the grey in between light grey and mid grey 280-320g (charcoal just looks too wintery for me) in a halstead kid mohair or dormeuil tonik. Something for business or summer weddings. Looks boss and understated. 3 roll 2 with notch or Parisian lapel, roping, flapped pockets and dark grey mother of pearl buttons. Think 90s brioni power suit cut. Who doesn't want to look like Sean Connery's bond or Michael corleone in godfather part 2...funnily enough this is the only suit configuration on this list missing from my wardrobe. I do not currently own a grey suit....

Sports coat
1. Dark navy dormeuil traveller heavy mohair hopsack/fresco 450g 3 roll 2 triple patch with notch lapel, green grey corozo or dark mother of pearl buttons and roped shoulders as blazer/sports coat
2. Cream silk/mohair sbpl or 6x2 db in hopsack or herringbone weave 280-320g with roped shoulder. Scabal, dormeuil, halsteads or bennett silks for fabric source. Surprisingly versatile piece. Can wear with virtually any color trousers. Navy for formal black tie. Jean's for smart casual. Light grey or white linen for summer beach parties. As much as I love a full cream suit, the jacket or trousers individually get more use.
3. Dark brown/chocolate heavy linen with big herringbone 450-480g from ulsters. The heavy linen herringbone weave ensures it does not look or feel out of place in winter. 3 roll 2 neapolitan styled triple patch with dark brown horn, lapel tabs and western action back hybrid.
I have been intrigued by the possibility of a heavy linen that could be worn in the winter. I agree that chocolate brown would probably be the prefect color for this but I have always been unsure of the practicality. Have you ever worn linen this heavy? Does it work in winter?
 

Concordia

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The question is-- three all-season garments, or some that shade to light or heavy?

Best way to split the difference with at least one of these is the original 10oz Fresco. Porous enough for all but the worst warm weather, but substantial (or coarse) enough to drape well. The chalk stripes look like flannel, and there are some good, useful greys and RAF blues.

If you're aiming for dressy use, the 10oz high-twist Finmeresco is quite unlike the rest of that book. Very smooth and elegant, and not a floppy as the original 4-ply under that name. Deceptively cool in hot weather.

Then something for the coolest weather when you don't need to be worried about warm rooms. Actually, a dry worsted will do surprisingly well until the end of spring, so a 13oz Lesser could work. Wears like iron, and will look fine in even the frostiest days, especially if you already have an overcoat. Oyster is a bit less urbane, but also very useful, if maybe less cool-wearing. 11oz Lesser used to be a standard, and could hang in there adequately in that role, but seems to have got soggier post-buyout. Still, there are other, similar books. Harrisons Fine Classics is one.

For sport jackets, you have the same range of choices. P&H Glorious 12th is a good baseline for all but the hottest or coldest days. A 10-oz serge DB blazer would cover useful ground. Then you need to decide if you'd rather have a meaningful tweed or an open-weave linen.
 

The Chai

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I have been intrigued by the possibility of a heavy linen that could be worn in the winter. I agree that chocolate brown would probably be the prefect color for this but I have always been unsure of the practicality. Have you ever worn linen this heavy? Does it work in winter?
Yes. Ulster does a large herringbone linen at 450 480 g weight. I have one in navy which works for summer and it rumbles in a way which does not look out of place in winter
 

Sreezy36

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Question for this fun crew: you can only have 3 suits and 3 sport coats for a four season geographic....what fabrics do you choose and why?
I absolutely love posts and questions of the sort. Obviously, there will be a multitude of different answers and analysis regarding the topic. However, within this variety, it gives us a chance to each learn from and share our philosophies, values, and approach to dressing. Although I would love to answer this question, I feel as though I am not qualified to do so. Mainly because I have very little “personal experience“ with many of the fabrics that I wish to include in my list. With that being said, I am pleased to hear answers from others who are more qualified and experienced.
 
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kolecho

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Question for this fun crew: you can only have 3 suits and 3 sport coats for a four season geographic....what fabrics do you choose and why?
Firstly, six garments is plenty for a regular fella but not when you are of the type that would pose the question on SF. I'd double that to twelve to be more realistic. Assuming you have seasons to deal with...

Navy open weave suit
Grey tropical worsted suit
Navy winter hopsack suit
Grey winter twill suit

Summer navy blazer
Winter navy blazer
Summer mohair blend jacket
Winter cashmere blend jacket

Tan linen jacket
Olive linen jacket
Grey tweed jacket
Brown tweed jacket
 

Simon A

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Question for this fun crew: you can only have 3 suits and 3 sport coats for a four season geographic....what fabrics do you choose and why?
LL Brisa dinner suit, DB shawl collar
LL Brisa light grey suit, SB, 3 pairs of trousers
Gorina heavy flannel suit (460g), DB mid-grey, 3 pairs of trousers

LL Brisa navy blazer, 8 x 3, gold buttons
Molloy and Sons Donegal Tweed teba, 3 button, single vent
Baird McNutt Dark Tan linen jacket, (270g), single breasted

You always need a dinner suit.
The Brisa trousers can be worn with the blazer, or even the linen jacket, and are a pretty robust 3-season option.
The mid-grey flannel can also be worn with the blazer and the teba in winter. I use my teba as a travel garment in cool weather as it has plenty of external pockets for boarding passes and it handles being rolled up or slept in better than a conventional sports jacket. It also gets used for riding and hunting.

Effectively ten outfits.
 

samtalkstyle

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LL Brisa dinner suit, DB shawl collar
LL Brisa light grey suit, SB, 3 pairs of trousers
Gorina heavy flannel suit (460g), DB mid-grey, 3 pairs of trousers

LL Brisa navy blazer, 8 x 3, gold buttons
Molloy and Sons Donegal Tweed teba, 3 button, single vent
Baird McNutt Dark Tan linen jacket, (270g), single breasted

You always need a dinner suit.
The Brisa trousers can be worn with the blazer, or even the linen jacket, and are a pretty robust 3-season option.
The mid-grey flannel can also be worn with the blazer and the teba in winter. I use my teba as a travel garment in cool weather as it has plenty of external pockets for boarding passes and it handles being rolled up or slept in better than a conventional sports jacket. It also gets used for riding and hunting.

Effectively ten outfits.
That Baird dark tan colour is exceptional.
I've just had a suit made up in it.
 

Rafael Tompoulis

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Hi guys! I need your precious help in identifying the type of Wool fabric the following Brioni Sportsjacket is made of. I believe, from my humble knowledge and from what I've seen, that it is maybe a Fresco ? Please help me differentiate in my mind Hopsack and Fresco and how they both look. Thanks a lot in advance!
 

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The Chai

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LL Brisa dinner suit, DB shawl collar
LL Brisa light grey suit, SB, 3 pairs of trousers
Gorina heavy flannel suit (460g), DB mid-grey, 3 pairs of trousers

LL Brisa navy blazer, 8 x 3, gold buttons
Molloy and Sons Donegal Tweed teba, 3 button, single vent
Baird McNutt Dark Tan linen jacket, (270g), single breasted

You always need a dinner suit.
The Brisa trousers can be worn with the blazer, or even the linen jacket, and are a pretty robust 3-season option.
The mid-grey flannel can also be worn with the blazer and the teba in winter. I use my teba as a travel garment in cool weather as it has plenty of external pockets for boarding passes and it handles being rolled up or slept in better than a conventional sports jacket. It also gets used for riding and hunting.

Effectively ten outfits.
8x3 blazer though?
 

Bespoke DJP

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Well, this is not an unknown configuration of a DB (mostly navy) blazer; its military reference is very clear which can be supported by HRH as he has served as a royal navy officer.

Still, it requires a certain body-type...

Best,

Dimitris
 

reidd

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If the goal is a true 4 season wardrobe, you shouldn't aim for more than 1/3 of the pieces to be in "all season" weight cloth because the weather will be either hot or cold 2/3 of the time. Even in more temperate climates, I think its a mistake to go too middle of the road with regards to seasonality in cloths. One of the most appealing aspects of bespoke (although I realize the OP did not specify he is going that rout), is the ability to use specialty cloths which were designed for maximum seasonal functionality whereas ready to wear brands cannot really do this because of marketing and other business considerations.
 
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