Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sreezy36]

Is “mockleno” (Minnis or Smith Woolens) sturdy enough to hold up long term as a trouser? I understand that it might not be an ideal choice for a trouser or as a suit. However, will it suffice as a trouser/suit at a minimal standard? Or, is it a fabric that is intended for jacketing only?

 

[JHWilliams]

Is “mockleno” (Minnis or Smith Woolens) sturdy enough to hold up long term as a trouser? I understand that it might not be an ideal choice for a trouser or as a suit. However, will it suffice as a trouser/suit at a minimal standard? Or, is it a fabric that is intended for jacketing only?

Dugdale Bros. TropicalAir Mock Leno is AMAZING. I've never seen it used for trousers. However, the cloth feels very sturdy.

 

[JHWilliams]

Say more about the Dugdale Fearnought.

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Fwd: Tales from our basement

• 
  
  
  Frank Shattuck
  [email protected]
  Feb 18 at 7:42 AM
  
  
  
  Sent from my iPhone
  
  Begin forwarded message:
  
  

  From: "Dugdale Bros & Co." <[email protected]>
  Date: February 18, 2021 at 6:50:00 AM EST
  To: [email protected]
  Subject: Tales from our basement
  Reply-To: Dugdale Bros & Co. <[email protected]>

  Like many nineteenth century buildings, the basements at Dugdale Towers are large, cold spaces filled with relics of times past. But it isn't just antiques we store down there. Our basement is the ideal environment for maturing our latest range of bespoke tailors' cloth. Read on to find out more about what makes Fearnought one of our most special collections. Made in Huddersfield Like all of our woollen and worsted cloths, Fearnought is made in Huddersfield using local skills and resources. The cloth is woven using a combination of traditional and innovative techniques at a local mill before being finished using famously soft Pennine waters. Conditioned with care When it arrives at our towers, Fearnought is carefully cuttled and placed in our 'keeping room' for three months. Here, cool, moist air circulates around the cloth, imbuing it with just the right amount of moisture to give it its uniquely soft - and distinctly Dugdale - handle. A heritage cloth for the 21st century We originally introduced these designs in 1910 as part of one of our first collections spun from Australian merino wool. But while it is heritage in design, this is very much a twenty-first century cloth. A tightly woven 18oz cloth, Fearnought is just as hardy as its Edwardian forebears. However, the special attention we have given to producing and conditioning this collection means that, for such a robust cloth, it has an uncharacteristically luxurious handle, making it peerless when it comes to cloth for twenty-first century suiting, bodycoats or indeed any timeless luxury garment. We were pioneers then and we are pioneers today. Fearnought is a celebration of that. Coming soon. Check your inbox for updates or follow us on Instagram @dugdalebrosandco Shop collections online​ ​ ​ ​ ​ Copyright © 2021 Dugdale Bros & Co Ltd, All rights reserved. Photography by Department Two. Registered in England & Wales Company Number: 00561828 VAT Registration No: 427644244 Our mailing address is: Dugdale Bros & Co Ltd 5 Northumberland St Huddersfield, West Yorkshire HD1 1RL United Kingdom Add us to your address book You are receiving this email because you signed up to hear more from Dugdale Bros & Co. Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list. This e-mail contains proprietary information some or all of which may be legally privileged. It is for the intended recipient only. If an addressing or transmission error has misdirected this e-mail, please notify the author by replying to this e-mail. If you are not the intended recipient you must not use, disclose, distribute, copy, print, or rely on this e-mail. Whilst reasonable precautions have been taken to ensure that this message and any attachments are free from viruses or other malicious code, no guarantee is implied or given.

  

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[yanagi]

Is “mockleno” (Minnis or Smith Woolens) sturdy enough to hold up long term as a trouser? I understand that it might not be an ideal choice for a trouser or as a suit. However, will it suffice as a trouser/suit at a minimal standard? Or, is it a fabric that is intended for jacketing only?

Jacketing only. As Dugdale themselves describe,

Woven on traditional looms using extra-fine, 2-ply Merino wool, Mock Leno has an open mesh finish that is characteristic of this enduring method, with interlacing warp and weft yarns creating natural drape and a cool wear aspect. Available in an eclectic range of shades – from classic and muted to modern and vibrant – this fabric is perfect for tailoring summer jackets and blazers.

The "high twist" section of the book is for suiting and also jacketing and trousers.

 

[Sreezy36]

Jacketing only. As Dugdale themselves describe,

Woven on traditional looms using extra-fine, 2-ply Merino wool, Mock Leno has an open mesh finish that is characteristic of this enduring method, with interlacing warp and weft yarns creating natural drape and a cool wear aspect. Available in an eclectic range of shades – from classic and muted to modern and vibrant – this fabric is perfect for tailoring summer jackets and blazers.

The "high twist" section of the book is for suiting and also jacketing and trousers.

Good to know. However, the HFW/Minnis webpage states that the mockleno fabrics are "light weight suiting" fabrics Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Shop - Pieces in Fresco III Collection (hfwltd.com) #510243-245. I guess that is where some of my confusion comes from. While some manufacturers insist that mockleno is a jacketing fabric, others explicitly state that it is a suiting fabric.

 

[JHWilliams]

Good to know. However, the HFW/Minnis webpage states that the mockleno fabrics are "light weight suiting" fabrics Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Shop - Pieces in Fresco III Collection (hfwltd.com) #510243-245. I guess that is where some of my confusion comes from. While some manufacturers insist that mockleno is a jacketing fabric, others explicitly state that it is a suiting fabric.

it is a very distinct open weave. I wouldn’t consider trousers in mock Leno

 

[Concordia]

nvm

 

[JHWilliams]

Is anyone interested in exploring a custom run of Pheasant’s Eye tweed? I have searched high and low for this pattern. Lovat would be willing to weave it.

 

[HodgeW]

Fearnought sounds like a beast. Has the book been released?

 

[Concordia]

Is anyone interested in exploring a custom run of Pheasant’s Eye tweed? I have searched high and low for this pattern. Lovat would be willing to weave it.

Could be a very useful, if slightly off-center, classic. What quality/weight were you thinking of?

 

[JHWilliams]

Could be a very useful, if slightly off-center, classic. What quality/weight were you thinking of?

i was thinking mid to heavy weight. Any thoughts ?

 

[JHWilliams]

Fearnought sounds like a beast. Has the book been released?

not yet. Within the next 6 months or so. I can’t wait.

 

[HodgeW]

not yet. Within the next 6 months or so. I can’t wait.

think there will be a solid navy in the bunch? a fairly pronounced ('steep') serge / twill ?

 

[Concordia]

i was thinking mid to heavy weight. Any thoughts ?

They have one that is about 16" and a good all-rounder. The 21oz is what the London Lounge loves to do, and that is also quite excellent once you've made the commitment.

 

[JHWilliams]

They have one that is about 16" and a good all-rounder. The 21oz is what the London Lounge loves to do, and that is also quite excellent once you've made the commitment.

I would be interested in a 21 oz.