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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

jonathanS

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Cross-post:
For those attending dinners in Scottish castles this winter (or Texas ranches unaffected by federal energy regulations), Fox is offering 21/22oz barathea as one of their specials.

I am very tempted by this cloth....
 

Concordia

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You can also get the same weight in the H Lesser book and maybe Smiths as well. I have no idea which is best.
 

ZRH1

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could you share which? I searched by and large in those books at my tailor and most ai found were two twills at 565gr. I rather prefer the geometry of the oxford/barathea pattern.
 

JHWilliams

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You can also get the same weight in the H Lesser book and maybe Smiths as well. I have no idea which is best.
unfortunately, Harrison’s has let the H. Lesser formal book dwindle down to nothing. All that is left is a 12 oz navy barathea and a 14 oz. black. Harrison’s has not done right by the Lesser name. Would have been better to let them ride off into the sunset.
 

Concordia

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Probably there are some issues about duplication. And some of the Lesser books were getting old-fashioned in a not-so-useful way. But I don't assume that current management is doing the right thing. Among other things, the 11oz book has been getting very dubious reviews from tailors recently. And it will be interesting to see if they revive the 16oz book properly.
 

JHWilliams

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Probably there are some issues about duplication. And some of the Lesser books were getting old-fashioned in a not-so-useful way. But I don't assume that current management is doing the right thing. Among other things, the 11oz book has been getting very dubious reviews from tailors recently. And it will be interesting to see if they revive the 16oz book properly.
Lesser was consistent with the old standards. some updates wouldn’t hurt.

Every tailor I have spoken with is still royally ticked off at the quality of the cloth since the merger. With the demand of heavier cloth on the rise, I can’t understand why they have let their 16 oz bulletproof cloth die down.
Dugdale Bros. will be introducing their 18 oz. Fearnaught collection soon. I can’t wait !!!
 

Concordia

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That should be interesting. In the meantime, there is the Universal book as part of the Harrisons wing, and small bits of flannel elsewhere. Fox has their heritage collection, and LL still gets a few things out there from time to time.
 

sebastian mcfox

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Hi gang - I’m in search of a nice navy birdseye for a conservative business suit. Bonus if the cloth works well for travel. Ideally 11-13oz if possible

Here is the shortlist, though very open to other suggestions

H&S City of London 13.5oz
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/6218035-city-of-london-dark-navy-birdseye

Dugdale Royal classic vantage
https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-classic-vantage/product/3417-dug13688/colour/navy_birdseye/

Lesser 13oz
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/29770/

Standeven Escorial - 11oz
https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/12037-navy-blue-birdseye/

I believe The Armoury offers a suit in the Standeven, though I wonder if Escorial would be too soft?
 

ericgereghty

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Hi gang - I’m in search of a nice navy birdseye for a conservative business suit. Bonus if the cloth works well for travel. Ideally 11-13oz if possible

Here is the shortlist, though very open to other suggestions

H&S City of London 13.5oz
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/6218035-city-of-london-dark-navy-birdseye

Dugdale Royal classic vantage
https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-classic-vantage/product/3417-dug13688/colour/navy_birdseye/

Lesser 13oz
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/29770/

Standeven Escorial - 11oz
https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/12037-navy-blue-birdseye/

I believe The Armoury offers a suit in the Standeven, though I wonder if Escorial would be too soft?
Escorial would be sooooooo money. It's supposedly quite durable, though I'm unsure if that's in relation to cashmere, which it's often compared to for hand feel, or as a wool stand alone.
FWIW, I have a few ties in Escorial, and they are VERY resilient. Have no issues shaking wrinkles, and I tend to tie rather tight knots.
 
Last edited:

Despos

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Hi gang - I’m in search of a nice navy birdseye for a conservative business suit. Bonus if the cloth works well for travel. Ideally 11-13oz if possible

Here is the shortlist, though very open to other suggestions

H&S City of London 13.5oz
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/6218035-city-of-london-dark-navy-birdseye

Dugdale Royal classic vantage
https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-classic-vantage/product/3417-dug13688/colour/navy_birdseye/

Lesser 13oz
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/29770/

Standeven Escorial - 11oz
https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/12037-navy-blue-birdseye/

I believe The Armoury offers a suit in the Standeven, though I wonder if Escorial would be too soft?
Harrison’s Premier Cru is my go to. Very wrinkle resistant, good colors. The charcoal birds eye is a particular favorite
 

Concordia

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Lesser 13 would have been the go-to a while back. Here's hoping it is still good. Birdseye is a bit less stiff than most other weaves, so the hard/dry finish of Lesser won't have made such a huge impact. I had a DB made from their Golden Bale 13oz-- still going after 10 years at Boston Symphony concerts, never yet dry cleaned.
 

kolecho

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Hi gang - I’m in search of a nice navy birdseye for a conservative business suit. Bonus if the cloth works well for travel. Ideally 11-13oz if possible

Here is the shortlist, though very open to other suggestions

H&S City of London 13.5oz
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/6218035-city-of-london-dark-navy-birdseye

Dugdale Royal classic vantage
https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-classic-vantage/product/3417-dug13688/colour/navy_birdseye/

Lesser 13oz
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/29770/

Standeven Escorial - 11oz
https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/12037-navy-blue-birdseye/

I believe The Armoury offers a suit in the Standeven, though I wonder if Escorial would be too soft?
I like Harrisons Oyster 13oz. Its finish is more “rustic”, for lack of a better term, compared to Lesser 13oz which I prefer.
 

Despos

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Good to hear - though I’m curious whether it stays crisp and professional with the cashmere mixed in
It does hold up. Client shipped a jacket in Premier Cru cloth to me to repair. Came out of the box with no wrinkles.
 

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