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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

ChasingStyle

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Re: Giaccone

Practically a coat positioned between a jacket and a topcoat / overcoat.

Konstanti (@konstantis) we used to call it "redicotta" (originating from the English word: riding coat), its length being in the middle-length of the above-stated garments (at approx. the mid-thigh).

Another term is "caban", IMO it calls for a lightweight overcoating (or a heavyweight jacketing) fabric to satisfy its destination; very heavy fabrics will probably contradict its purpose, although taste will have a primary role in fabric selection.

Best,

Dimitris
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Wren

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Anyone knows where can I find a nice light yellow oxford shirting? Couldn't find any from my tailor's books, and acorn is out of theirs.
 

Encathol Epistemia

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I recently received some swatches from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds that included two of their covert cloths from the English Coatings Collection. I had been considering the Draper's covert cloths that I got a two months ago, but decided that they were too light for my purposes, which are walking around grouchily in cool, but not cold Philadelphia weather. Properly heavy top coat and overcoat cloth has evidently declined in popularity, thus availability.

These seem to be a suitable weight and I think that the fawn color of 2006 would fit with my idea of what a covert coat should look like. It looks slightly greyer in other light or at other angles, which is to its credit. I like the charcoal color of 2007 as a habit, but it's not what I imagine for these purposes. They do seem slightly 'fuzzier' than the Draper's cloths, which isn't a demerit to them, just a minor curiosity. I might finally get around to having this made, although a year later than once envisioned.


Huddersfield Covert Cloths.JPG
 

reidd

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I recently received some swatches from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds that included two of their covert cloths from the English Coatings Collection. I had been considering the Draper's covert cloths that I got a two months ago, but decided that they were too light for my purposes, which are walking around grouchily in cool, but not cold Philadelphia weather. Properly heavy top coat and overcoat cloth has evidently declined in popularity, thus availability.

These seem to be a suitable weight and I think that the fawn color of 2006 would fit with my idea of what a covert coat should look like. It looks slightly greyer in other light or at other angles, which is to its credit. I like the charcoal color of 2007 as a habit, but it's not what I imagine for these purposes. They do seem slightly 'fuzzier' than the Draper's cloths, which isn't a demerit to them, just a minor curiosity. I might finally get around to having this made, although a year later than once envisioned.


View attachment 1540779
I have some trousers made in 560 gram covert coating and they are very nice to wear in the winter. That weight might be a bit light for a proper overcoat, but for simply "cool" weather as you say, it would be fine.
 

Simon A

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I recently received some swatches from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds that included two of their covert cloths from the English Coatings Collection. I had been considering the Draper's covert cloths that I got a two months ago, but decided that they were too light for my purposes, which are walking around grouchily in cool, but not cold Philadelphia weather. Properly heavy top coat and overcoat cloth has evidently declined in popularity, thus availability.


Consider 900 g covert cloth from Lovat Mill for an heirloom piece.
 
Last edited:

rjkabk

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I'm looking for recommendations for my next suit. I'm wanting a Navy stripe suit, either gray or blue stripes, preferably subtle striping, half an inch apart, give or take a little. Last time I got a suit I followed @Despos recommendation of a sharskin from Harrisons Premier Cru. I am enjoying that suit a lot. I generally prefer suits that are lower Super numbers, durable, more matte appearance. Since I wanted something just a bit lighter than the Harrisons Premier Cru, I am considering something from either Harrisons Cru Classe book, Smith's Siena Super 120s & Cashmere, or H & S Target, maybe even H & S Perennial Classics. Does anyone have experience with those books and would they be what I am looking for based on what I described? Thanks!
 

JHWilliams

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I'm looking for recommendations for my next suit. I'm wanting a Navy stripe suit, either gray or blue stripes, preferably subtle striping, half an inch apart, give or take a little. Last time I got a suit I followed @Despos recommendation of a sharskin from Harrisons Premier Cru. I am enjoying that suit a lot. I generally prefer suits that are lower Super numbers, durable, more matte appearance. Since I wanted something just a bit lighter than the Harrisons Premier Cru, I am considering something from either Harrisons Cru Classe book, Smith's Siena Super 120s & Cashmere, or H & S Target, maybe even H & S Perennial Classics. Does anyone have experience with those books and would they be what I am looking for based on what I described? Thanks!
if you like a dry “walnut finish” cloth, go with Dugdale or Standeven.
 

kolecho

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4078B5E3-B4D3-491C-B2B0-F0F2C0342D60.png


Has anyone made up the above cotton/elastane cloth from Caccioppoli.

Wondering how cotton with 2% elastane compares to 100% cotton in similar weight. Thoughts?

Thinking to make a jacket like this heavy cotton one below but with the bottom RAF blue swatch from Caccioppoli above.

AD135302-F18A-45ED-82A6-13DFCF6F34C5.jpeg
 

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