Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Encathol Epistemia]

Ground refers to the base color of the cloth.
A blue cloth with a white window pane pattern would be referred to as “a blue ground with white decoration”
If you were joking, then I misunderstood

No, thank you. I was unfamiliar with the term.

I was joking about dropping the suit, actually I was lying, I never dropped it, although I did get some rather stubborn stains on it after dinner at a steakhouse.

 

[JHWilliams]

Been there a couple of times with my tailor. Fun place to find odd ends.
@JHWilliams, please see your private message

thank you, sir! I have responded

 

[ruvort]

I just found this on a sealed bag, was ordered by a forum member but never paid.

The very famous Agnelli fabric from Carlo Barbera and other cool one. For sale, 50 euros meter, retail maybe 3 or 4 times more. full cut are 4 meters each.

View attachment 1511335

I'd be interested in more info on these first two fabrics that you mentioned. If you would, please send me a PM.

Thank you.

 

[brax]

I’d be curious to hear people’s thoughts on SmithBotany hopsack for a suit?

I’ve often heard that hopsack is jacketing rather than suiting, but I recently watched the MoMA video on Anderson and Sheppard, and the sales associate at the beginning of the film clearly confirms that the suit is a hopsack from the Botany book.

Nobody wants to rehash the Vox v. FNB debate concerning which professions may wear hopsack suits? It was a SF classic.

 

[bdavro23]

Nobody wants to rehash the Vox v. FNB debate concerning which professions may wear hopsack suits? It was a SF classic.

I'm fairly certain its limited to sanitation workers. My memory could be failing though...

 

[classicalthunde]

Nobody wants to rehash the Vox v. FNB debate concerning which professions may wear hopsack suits? It was a SF classic.

I was aware of the references, but always thought it was in reference to the BlazerSuit™ convo...didn't realize there was a separate thread on the implications of hopsack suiting

 

[The Chai]

Personally I find the hopsack to be the best material if you are going for the minimalist black knit tie and white/light blue OCBD shirt...very sanitation worker indeed

 

[brax]

And now for something completely different, I am moving to a new house in a little over a month and have decided to thin out many of my possessions (including some London Lounge lengths that I've had in storage). I have the following available:

Brown QUCT 3.0m (Quintessential Ultimate Calvary Twill; middle fabric)

LLTW08 Chevriot tweed herringbone violet windowpane 4m

PSJ2 (Perfect Spring Jacket) 2.5m (on left)

Fumo di Londra Flannel 3.5m (very difficult to capture; solid dark (not charcoal) grey)
Ultimate navy blazer 2.5m

LLTW14 Agnelli grey tweed 4m

Thanks

 

[Concordia]

You have chosen well--- at least, on the buy side.

 

[brax]

You have chosen well--- at least, on the buy side.

Thanks. The Agnelli is one of my all-time favorites and I just had it made up again.

But do I really need three lengths of the fabric?
I‘ll likely regret letting the PSJ2 go but I just don’t wear tweed (or flannel) in warm weather.

 

[sensuki]

I am getting trousers made up in a Caccioppoli Covert Cloth 14oz, which I believe is the same quality as what you have there. I too ordered a Drapers sample and compared it to the Caccioppoli and it looked the same, but maybe a tiny difference in dye lot.

My fitting is on Dec 11th, I'll see if I can get a photo.

Here's a preview of my fitting, keen!

Nice troll from the maker regarding the cloth, lmao

 

[emptym]

probably fine but synthetic mixed cloth will eventually split and you’ll have a bunch of little rubber bands sticking out of your clothing at stress points. Will take a while but it happens.

It's a disaster to wash, even with a careful cold wash. The fabric shrinks appallingly. We do not have the same use of a everyday cotton pants as a wool suit pants. The Cacciopoli trousers have lost almost 20% of their mass after 5 washes... Because of the elastana. A pure cotton will shrink a lot less.

I don't think synthetics will necessarilly shrink or split. Elastane can definitely dry out, get hard and break, but I have workout clothes from the early 90's that are still in good shape. I don't think the elastane itself would shrink. Cotton other natural fibers shrink much more than artificial ones in general. So my guess for your (@Marshak's) fabric is that the cotton wears or washes away and the elastane pulls the cloth in, thus making it smaller. But I have cotton jeans with elastane that are maybe 7 yrs old, have been worn and washed a lot, but have suffered little to no shrinkage -- probably less than their all cotton counterparts.

 

[mockingboy]

Hey gang

trying to identify a similar fabric to brown/beige puppytooth or mini houndstooth in photo below. From Jean Manuel Moreaus instagram

 

[reidd]

I don't think synthetics will necessarilly shrink or split. Elastane can definitely dry out, get hard and break, but I have workout clothes from the early 90's that are still in good shape. I don't think the elastane itself would shrink. Cotton other natural fibers shrink much more than artificial ones in general. So my guess for your (@Marshak's) fabric is that the cotton wears or washes away and the elastane pulls the cloth in, thus making it smaller. But I have cotton jeans with elastane that are maybe 7 yrs old, have been worn and washed a lot, but have suffered little to no shrinkage -- probably less than their all cotton counterparts.

I don't mean that the cloth itself will necessarily split but rather that the individual filaments of the elastane will eventually begin to break over time in a way that cotton will not. Depending on how these synthetic filaments are spun into the completed yarn and later woven into the finished fabric has an effect on how the fabric ages. There are many ways of doing this so each fabric will be different. The larger point is that in any fabric that is composed of both natural and synthetic fibers, the two components will react to wear and laundering differently.

Cotton fibers absorb moisture and when they dry, some fibers break and fall out. This is why cotton shrinks after it is washed. Synthetic fibers will also break over time with wear but they generally look less nice as a result (think pilling). Cotton can age very beautifully and elastane much less so.

 

[RogerC]

Hey gang

trying to identify a similar fabric to brown/beige puppytooth or mini houndstooth in photo below. From Jean Manuel Moreaus instagram
View attachment 1512545 View attachment 1512546

Doesn't Marling and Evans have something similar?