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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

4r36

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I'm taught it is a summer cloth. But, weight aside, I'm completely fine with the match too.

Another supposedly summerish thing I wear in the winter is a shantung tie.
 

yanagi

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I wear my mocklino blazer with flannel trousers every now and then in the winter. But I would never admit that on SF. Never mind.
I'm with you. I wore my mock leno DB with flannel trousers last weekend. It helped that it was in the mid-60s (F).

Re: @9thsymph , I think the mock lenos from Minnis or Dugdale can be worn year round. That said, if we're talking about walking outside for an extended period of time, I prefer to stick with a polo and shorts above 82 F; and even with an overcoat, I prefer something truly A/W-ish like tweed below 40 F.
 

Despos

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@9thsymph

“I'm ready to get on with some new orders, but in considering what I "need" I'm finding it hard to shake the impulse of yet another navy blazer iteration, as getting various weights across various textures in tandem with various button configurations and silhouettes becomes rather endless...(do any of you share this madness?)”

Following this “impulse” I had 8 navy jackets in my wardrobe. Variety of cloth types, weights, styles, SB and DB, etc.
Didn’t realize It was induced by a state of madness because they all had a purpose. It was giving an ubiquitous garment a point of view and tuning it by cloth and styling to a specific genre of jacket. Better than the alternative when the one blue jacket is used across the spectrum of social/business situations and is so generic it doesn’t express anything.

Just remembered this, about 2 years ago a client ordered 10 blue blazers using 3 different cloths. And one blue suit and one emerald green jacket.

9th, you’re not alone!
 
Last edited:

Simon A

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Are there any "true" 4-season blazer cloths? (assuming hot summers and cold winters, with overcoats in the winter).

Thanks!
I wear a buggy-lined LL Brisa blazer year-round, but if I had a serge blazer (I outgrew my old one last year), I would wear that in the winter. (Min temp here -20 C, max temp +38C) For me, Brisa is ideal for 3 seasons and you can get by with it in winter with an overcoat. I tend to feel cold more intensely than heat, so others may feel differently.
 

aristoi bcn

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I also wear my mock lenos with flannel trousers in winter but you need an extra layering when going outside.
 

The Chai

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@9thsymph

“I'm ready to get on with some new orders, but in considering what I "need" I'm finding it hard to shake the impulse of yet another navy blazer iteration, as getting various weights across various textures in tandem with various button configurations and silhouettes becomes rather endless...(do any of you share this madness?)”

Following this “impulse” I had 8 navy jackets in my wardrobe. Variety of cloth types, weights, styles, SB and DB, etc.
Didn’t realize It was induced by a state of madness because they all had a purpose. It was giving an ubiquitous garment a point of view and tuning it by cloth and styling to a specific genre of jacket. Better than the alternative when the one blue jacket is used across the spectrum of social/business situations and is so generic it doesn’t express anything.

Just remembered this, about 2 years ago a client ordered 10 blue blazers using 3 different cloths. And one blue suit and one emerald green jacket.

9th, you’re not alone!
One can never have enough navy blazer suits!

disclosure at one point I had 14!
 

Concordia

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Mock leno is coarse enough that it could be taken to be 15oz hopsack. And if you're walking fast outdoors and coming into warm rooms, it is a useful sort of fabric in cooler weather.
 

reidd

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12-13oz high twists are the closest thing to 4 cloth season you can get. I have a Finmeresco DB blazer in this weight that I find I can wear it year round. Obviously not ideal for either the hottest or coldest days but I think it does a good enough job of at least looking congruent with either season's trouser.
 

lordsuperb

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Thanks. I ran it through the washing machine (with detergent) twice before shipping it off. I do that with all my cottons and linens.
Do you wash back to back or wait for the cloth to dry first before washing again?
 

Concordia

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I think abuse in the drier is probably helpful if you're aiming for shrinkage. Of the non-Seinfeld variety.
 

brax

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Damn it, Lordsuperb, did I screw this up?

The cottons and linens get washed once and then put in the dryer. Note that only those linens and cottons that will be made into casual shirts get put in the dryer as those are the only pieces that may shrink with washing. Anything that will be made into a suit/jacket/coat will not be put in the dryer. The Nantucket Red got a two-wash cycle (back to back) treatment because of its propensity to fade (especially quickly early).
 

brax

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I think many of us are assuming the use of a Minnis 9-10oz mockleno with the flannels. But Smith makes a 12-13 oz mockleno which may look even more appropriate with cold-weather flannels.
 

Concordia

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Also the Harrisons Spring Ram (just took delivery on one!).
 

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