- Oct 7, 2015
- Reaction score
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Hi Dimitri , did you ordered direct from them ?
Yes this has happened but it’s so rare and infrequent , wouldn’t say it’s an issue to watch for. Talking about a significant change in the look, feel and structure of the cloth.^ with that said, have you noticed a change in quality of the same cloths from the same mills over the years? That is, if you always made stuff from, say mill XYZ and cloth # 12345, have you ordered that same cloth a few years later and felt it was different? Of course there could be some slight variation in color due to dyes, etc., but I wonder if the wool itself could differ, too, based on what dww wrote about wool quality.
Hoarded cloths that I thought were above average when they are close to being discontinued. Buy all they have in stock. Like;The best way to get the old quality cloths is to go to a vintage store and buy an old suit, then give the vintage suit to your tailor and tell him or her to make a new suit out of this old suit.
Viola. Guaranteed Old World quality.
Objective measurement of fleeces on-farm and at the auction house has been developing rapidly over the past 3 decades, supplementing the skills of the woolclasser who works in the shearing shed. In addition to measuring staple length and average fibre diameter, it can very cheaply identify tender fleeces (those susceptible to a break in the fibre due to nutritional setback), standard deviation of fibre diameter within the sample (uniformity, in other words), and tensile strength. All this is information available to the topmaker at the combing mill when their agent buys the fleece, and they are correlated with how the spun fibre, and to an extent the derived cloth, performs. They are not a perfect substitute for objective durability tests like the Martindale test (resistance to rubbing) on finished fabric but they are correlated. Topmaker, spinner and weaver/finisher have very detailed objective information on the fibres they are working with, but merchants may choose not to communicate that to tailors or garment factory operators, which I think is a pity.I don't think there's something you can look for, but rather something you know from direct experience.
He also noted that older wool fibers were more durable, which he believes is a result of climate change. A lot of wool is sourced from Australia, where there have been droughts. This exec believes this is why fibers today are often more brittle.
If you could easily spot durability with things such as weight or fiber composition, then you wouldn't need such extensive durability tests.