Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bdavro23]

I prefer the consignment process as I don’t really have the desire to run things myself. Not overly interested in the money and also like the circus-like atmosphere. This one should be fun to watch.

Fair enough. If you're happy with 40% of the proceeds, who am I to judge?

 

[smittycl]

Fair enough. If you're happy with 40% of the proceeds, who am I to judge?

I know what you mean, though. I could have put it up here in B&S and dealt with a pile of offers and annoying emails or I could have listed it myself on eBay I guess. Just not something I was really interested in.

 

[ZRH1]

thank you for the replies re: heavy wollen cloth.

 

[bdavro23]

I know what you mean, though. I could have put it up here in B&S and dealt with a pile of offers and annoying emails or I could have listed it myself on eBay I guess. Just not something I was really interested in.

Totally get it, enjoy the show

 

[The Chai]

Mohair denim...now I’ve seen everything...

 

[acapaca]

Looks nice! I wonder if it would do for a shirt or shirt jacket.

 

[dan'l]

RE: summer tweed, great stuff. I really wish Derek would come up with other cloths.

RE: eBay, I‘m clearing out my storage room and selling some stuff (non-menswear) and man, it really is a hassle to deal with all that pic-taking, description-writing, question-answering, etc., so I can totally understand the approach of just letting someone else take care of all that.

 

[Despos]

In my case, ordinary wear of basic English and Italian lightweight worsteds, the trousers will only last 3 years, worn 1-2 times a week in the warmer months; they are cut full. Rarely dry cleaned and properly stored. Higher end material like Lessers, more like 8-12 years, which is pretty good for lightweight material. Costly fabric but compared to the cost of tailoring, overall cost of ownership is acceptable.

Heavy worsteds from Gorina, P&B Classics and Dugdales have been both inexpensive and sturdy in my experience. I'd be interested to hear others' experiences.

Finding the specs or information of the yarns used and weaving is not easy to find, nor is it readily available. Even to us in the trade.
Tailors have a perspective of cloth consumers don't have from working with it, sewing and pressing. This how we learn the characteristics of a cloth.
Every cloth merchant has cloth that I like and cloth I don't like. I tend to select the books from each brand that I like to work with and ignore other books.
A friend of mine would go thru the seasons new sample books and remove the cloth samples from each book that he didn't want to make or wouldn't like to make knowing they wouldn't tailor well or wear well.

Single ply yarns have a short shelf life. They don't tailor well or last as long. Some weavers use a certain quality in the warp and a different quality in the weft. This could be to reduce the weight or cost or both. These cloths tend to wear unevenly.
Point is; you can't be reductionistic and determine the cloth quality or longevity by isolating one factor like weight. Stick to brands with a good reputation and stand behind their goods.

 

[dan'l]

^ with that said, have you noticed a change in quality of the same cloths from the same mills over the years? That is, if you always made stuff from, say mill XYZ and cloth # 12345, have you ordered that same cloth a few years later and felt it was different? Of course there could be some slight variation in color due to dyes, etc., but I wonder if the wool itself could differ, too, based on what dww wrote about wool quality.

 

[konstantis]

Does anyone know where to purchase chambray and denim fabrics suitable for MTM shirts ? Thanks.

 

[The Chai]

Does anyone know where to purchase chambray and denim fabrics suitable for MTM shirts ? Thanks.

Try b and j fabrics

 

[konstantis]

Try b and j fabrics

Thank your reply. Any source in U.K. or Europe ?

 

[The Chai]

Thank your reply. Any source in U.K. or Europe ?

Acorn for chambray

 

[konstantis]

Acorn for chambray

Thank you.

 

[konstantis]

Acorn for chambray

I am inside Acorns site but i can not see any chambrays fabics . Is there anyway to have them with different name ? Thanks.