Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    Agree. Linen under 11oz creases like hell. Part of the charm for some but I like it heavier.
     


  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, I am thinking just for autumn and winter. My new overcoat is 22oz and while it doesn't feel that thick it is dense as all hell.
     


  3. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Senior member

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    Thanks for the heads up. I will take that into consideration. I don't mind some creasing but if it'll be extreme, maybe I will avoid it.

    I've read this entire thread and have learned a lot. Thanks to all who have participated.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012


  4. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Anyone from the tobacco fresco buy have any left? Need another 1.5 meters for trousers.
     


  5. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    ignore.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2012


  6. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Does anyone have any sources for 13 oz light yellow or yellowish cream gabardine? Something like:
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2011/04/man-in-style-installment-vi.html

    Scabal has 13 oz white/gray creams, light beige, and light tan/almost wheat, but I can't tell from their web photos whether any of their fabrics has the yellow undertone of these pants. Anyone seen them IRL?

    Also: anyone have any sources for 14 oz+ cream wool in barathea, gab, serge, or plain weave? I know Dugdale's 16 oz ivory barathea, but I'm looking for something more towards yellow. Thanks for any help.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2012


  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Hardy has a few gabardines that you might be interested in, click here

    Also, Hainsworth (British Army suppliers) may have what you're looking for.
     


  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Thanks, Roger. Any experience with Hardy's cream or wheat garbardines? The photos on their site have a bad reputation of being unrepresentative of the fabric colors, so I don't know what to expect. I may have to go to Hainsworth to get a yellowish cream: anyone have any experience with their worsted?
     


  9. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    No experience first-hand, but Minnis/Hardy are very good about sending out samples, so do contact them.
     


  10. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You can be comfortable in much heavier trousers than jackets and over time I have moved to pants that weigh more than my odd jackets as they drape better.

    13 ounce gabardine, for example, is fine in all but the hottest weather. 16 ounce flannel is good up to 65 degrees. Etc.
     


  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How durable is gabardine? I love the hand and how it holds a good crease, but I remember having a pair of gab trousers (cheap ones) in college that wore away at the seat in no time.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Use this test for gabs. The good ones have diagonal / twill weave on the face of the cloth and the same identical diagonal weave on the back. Cheap gabs show a diagonal weave on the face of the cloth and show a plain weave pattern on the back. Plain weave shows the yarns running parallel, 90* angles and not diagonal.
     


  13. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Thanks, Chris. That's good to know.
     


  14. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    I normally wear away trousers very quickly, but my BB gabardines are holding up very well.
     


  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is good to know. Thanks!
     


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