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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

stuffedsuperdud

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Why not contact Fox, they are very helpful even with iGents:laugh:
I was concerned that the call would go to the tune of "Hello so...I'm here with this guy who can't speak English, can you please send 4m of your medium gray 340g thinger at the tailor price to his rinkydink shop that you've never heard of? Also, he doesn't have a credit card so we'll use mine, but don't worry, I'll make sure he gets the markup." I also didn't really understand how mills, merchants, and tailors all factored together and lord knows I wasn't going to get a clear answer from my tailor, so I just went and bought it myself from the site. The other thing was, this was before they were as popular as they are now, and the stuff was like $90/yd, not super different from what my tailor would charge for the stuff he had on hand. I might be inclined to do as you suggest if I were to do it again, whenever that may be.

I've been making my own pizza from scratch the past couple of years, its certainly not as good as the better take out places in my area, but its an interesting way to spend my Friday night with my family and facilitates a bit more of a conversation with people at work when discussing what i did last night. Hell, I've driven hours to get a specific beer from a certain craft brewery, even though there are certainly equally good options 20 minutes away in my own city - the road trip is part of the fun.
I've combined these two, and make my own beer. It started 10+ years ago, when craft beer was much harder to find, so if you wanted an odd flavor you had to try to make it yourself. These days, craft beer is widely available and really really tasty, but it's still a fun excuse to host a brewing day every few months. How it works is, at any given time, one person is at the stove monitoring the simmering pot of future glory, while everyone else is hammered on store-bought beer. When the beer is ready, everyone who had come over gets a few bottles of our group creation. It's usually not exactly what we had in mind and probably isn't even that good, but we did have a fun day of getting it done.
 
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The Chai

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When you like a fabric so much you decide to get a three piece dj, a db and a 3 roll 2 all in the same fabric! Just funded my navy blue silk fabric
 

Bespoke DJP

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At last!

The Thread back to its track.

Cheers,

Dimitris

PS
I am expecting some jacketing cashmere swatches for deliberation...
 

Encathol Epistemia

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Does anybody here have opinions on the quality and use of the 3-ply 55 % wool and 45 % mohair cloth made by Pepper Lee, which is associated with William Halstead and I suspect also Standeven in their Cape Town bunch? I'm similarly intrigued by the William Halstead, or perhaps Standeven Carnival cloths, which are even mohairier at 60 %, but definitely kid stuff, but lighter.

I expect that it's good cloth and am most curious about what it would be suitable for. I'm very curious about Mohair* and it seems unusual to see such a large share of it in a mixture. I'm given to understand that it can be scratchy and has a sheen, so I'd naturally want to inspect a swatch at some point, but that's only what I've usually read about the fiber, not personal observation.

*To date I have only a jacket made of a Schofield & Smith cloth from their Palm Beach bunch that is 15 % mohair, as well as 40 % wool, 30 % silk and 15 % linen.
 

lordsuperb

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I expect that it's good cloth and am most curious about what it would be suitable for. I'm very curious about Mohair* and it seems unusual to see such a large share of it in a mixture. I'm given to understand that it can be scratchy and has a sheen, so I'd naturally want to inspect a swatch at some point, but that's only what I've usually read about the fiber, not personal observation.

*To date I have only a jacket made of a Schofield & Smith cloth from their Palm Beach bunch that is 15 % mohair, as well as 40 % wool, 30 % silk and 15 % linen.
The fabric is suited for a night out on the town given the amount of sheen.
 
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The Chai

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Does anybody here have opinions on the quality and use of the 3-ply 55 % wool and 45 % mohair cloth made by Pepper Lee, which is associated with William Halstead and I suspect also Standeven in their Cape Town bunch? I'm similarly intrigued by the William Halstead, or perhaps Standeven Carnival cloths, which are even mohairier at 60 %, but definitely kid stuff, but lighter.

I expect that it's good cloth and am most curious about what it would be suitable for. I'm very curious about Mohair* and it seems unusual to see such a large share of it in a mixture. I'm given to understand that it can be scratchy and has a sheen, so I'd naturally want to inspect a swatch at some point, but that's only what I've usually read about the fiber, not personal observation.

*To date I have only a jacket made of a Schofield & Smith cloth from their Palm Beach bunch that is 15 % mohair, as well as 40 % wool, 30 % silk and 15 % linen.
The three ply stuff is really scratchy, possesses a rough hand (kind of Ike a gunny sack cross sandpaper and has zero give. Don’t mind the scratchy part (Though you might), love the rough hand but I would probably get it cut slightly bigger in hindsight. Of all my suits it’s the three ply mohair stuff I have had to alter the most over the last five years. You could probably get a fully lined summer blazer of some sort or a nice 2 piece db or a sbpl. I think the db and the 1b sbpl are the best suit/jacket design treatment for mohair. If you are looking for something with texture this is the one for you.
The stand even kid mohairs from the carnival bunch is very nice too! Much much softer, less scratchy and slightly more stretch. The Cape Town kid mohair stuff is the exact opposite. Slightly tougher...again zero give and has that rat pack look. I personally prefer the carnival bunch. Probably go for sbpl or a db with these cloths. Both have some slight slubs. Think of it like linen suiting but with anti crease properties.
If you can get the old Taylor and lodge stuff they are good. If you want a dinner jacket the Bateman and Ogden mohair barathea is the best mohair blend I have encountered so far. Great drape, not scratchy at all and not rat pack shiny. Don’t like the dormeuil super brio. Have one tonik which is scratchy af as a summer suit that gives me rashes whenever I wear it. What is your intention with it? I can go all day about mohair.
 

Encathol Epistemia

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The three ply stuff is really scratchy, possesses a rough hand (kind of Ike a gunny sack cross sandpaper and has zero give. Don’t mind the scratchy part (Though you might), love the rough hand but I would probably get it cut slightly bigger in hindsight. Of all my suits it’s the three ply mohair stuff I have had to alter the most over the last five years. You could probably get a fully lined summer blazer of some sort or a nice 2 piece db or a sbpl. I think the db and the 1b sbpl are the best suit/jacket design treatment for mohair. If you are looking for something with texture this is the one for you.
I don't mind scratchiness on the outside; I like my garments to have some texture. My brain will go smooth before what I wear does. If I were talking about underwear it would be a different story, but I've never broached that prospect with a tailor. Just thinking of how the basted fitting would work...

The stand even kid mohairs from the carnival bunch is very nice too! Much much softer, less scratchy and slightly more stretch. The Cape Town kid mohair stuff is the exact opposite. Slightly tougher...again zero give and has that rat pack look. I personally prefer the carnival bunch. Probably go for sbpl or a db with these cloths. Both have some slight slubs. Think of it like linen suiting but with anti crease properties.
That's a useful characterization and something that I hadn't quite grasped. The weather where I live tends to exceed 90°F (32.22°C ) and humid at the height of the summer, so I'm interested in anything that will help me to endure my stubbornness about how I dress in those conditions. (I haven't worn shorts since I was an undergraduate and I'm never going back!)

If you can get the old Taylor and lodge stuff they are good. If you want a dinner jacket the Bateman and Ogden mohair barathea is the best mohair blend I have encountered so far. Great drape, not scratchy at all and not rat pack shiny. Don’t like the dormeuil super brio. Have one tonik which is scratchy af as a summer suit that gives me rashes whenever I wear it. What is your intention with it? I can go all day about mohair.
I've gotten to be a big fan of Bateman Ogden.

As for my intentions... well... this will probably make me sound ridiculous, but besides curiosity, my reason for looking toward the 14 ounce 3-ply wool and mohair blend is because I'm considering eventually have travel suits made. I tend to like my garments to have a purpose, even though none are necessarily restricted to it, and so I suffer no ambiguity as to what I'll wear if I drag myself out of bed at some ghastly hour for an early outbound train and had neglected to prepare the night before. To my mind this meant something with slightly 'rustic' features (E.g. Patch Pockets) in a cloth that was hard wearing that wouldn't wrinkle much, so as to survive and preserve my scarce stock of dignity through the depredations of travel.

I was thinking of having a warmer weather one made in mohair fresco (Perhaps Fresco III # 510236 ) and its cooler weather counterpart made in a heavy fabric with a large mohair share. I had repeatedly heard of mohair resisting wrinkles well, being fairly hardy and thought that it seemed like a neat fiber overall, which is why I was drawn to it. I have, however, also heard it described, especially the Kid Mohair, as a cloth for warmer weather, and the high sheen seems inappropriate, so I'm beginning to doubt that it would be fit to purpose. I have been told and know better than to think of weight as particularly important to warmth, but that hasn't stopped me. (I tend to prefer heavy cloth when I think that I can get away with it; it feels more comfortable to me)

I was looking toward the Carnival bunch as a candidate for a future summer suit, indulging the 'lightweight is cooler' fallacy and all that. My process with all of this is to change my mind four or five times, then revert to my first or second idea roughly five minutes before making the ultimate decision.

I do sometimes dream fondly of a wool and mohair barathea tuxedo in a bulletproof weight, presumably with Kevlar lapel facings*, so there's that too... someday... maybe.

*Probably actually grosgrain.
 
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The Chai

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*Probably actually grosgrain.
You definitely want your pants fully lined...you can get away with half lined if you wear knee length socks (all dat static). Personally it is not the scratchiness. The 3-ply stuff and the mohair fresco can get quite uncomfortable in the dead of summer when you are participating in activities that make you sweat. Mohair and stickiness don't go hand in hand. Which is why contrary to popular opinion, I personally prefer full or at least half lining.

I've gotten to be a big fan of Bateman Ogden.

If you want a four season midnight blue DJ, go with the Bateman Ogden midnight barathea. Hands down the best mohair cloth for a DJ I have used imo and I have tried many (2/3 of my bespoke items counting the stuff I threw out are mohair. Half my unfunded liabilities are mohair)

SBPL blazersuit? would not get triple patch in any mohair. 2 is the max number imo though I am considering a mohair fresco safari jacket...

The mohair fresco makes a great travel suit/jacket. Would definitely qualify for patch pockets. If your next question is weighing up between the three ply stuff and the fresco, it is a tough call. If you have the mullah for it pepper lee does have a 100% kid mohair fabric which is actually quite cheap for its pricing. Seen the cloth and have seen a Dunhill jacket made in it. That lux feeling... You're right in saying they resist wrinkles well and are hardy. Just don't get it in the rain or it is a trip to the tailors to get it pressed again. I will not send a mohair suit to the cleaners to get pressed. It is hardy but due to the structure of the composition it can be fragile. In an ironic way, the higher the mohair content the more brittle the cloth is. The lack of stretch puts me off these days because any slight changes in body composition can be felt when wearing the jackets and pants made in that cloth. I think you will have to be pretty set in body shape and size to get something made in either cloth. I would not worry about sheen. With most of these cloths you're not gonna suffer the rat pack look in the morning. They are not 'shiny' in natural light. It's only in the evening you may notice the shine and again, it is very subtle. The sheen is the least of your concerns. The Cape town kid mohair and Dormeuil mohair are the shiniest I have seen but they are not shiny enough to be of concern.

The carnival has low sheen, has a 'wet' hand but I would not get a sports jacket/blazer made out of it. Love the Carnival though, great stuff for a summer suit. It's the cape town which has a higher sheen and I am personally not the biggest fan of it.

See above and go for the bateman ogden mohair...mofo cloth has some of the best drape i have ever seen and you're speaking to a guy with a 480 gram wool mohair herringbone and dormeuil tonik...does not even compare

I am a shantung lapel convert now...
 

dieworkwear

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Does anybody here have opinions on the quality and use of the 3-ply 55 % wool and 45 % mohair cloth made by Pepper Lee, which is associated with William Halstead and I suspect also Standeven in their Cape Town bunch? I'm similarly intrigued by the William Halstead, or perhaps Standeven Carnival cloths, which are even mohairier at 60 %, but definitely kid stuff, but lighter.

I expect that it's good cloth and am most curious about what it would be suitable for. I'm very curious about Mohair* and it seems unusual to see such a large share of it in a mixture. I'm given to understand that it can be scratchy and has a sheen, so I'd naturally want to inspect a swatch at some point, but that's only what I've usually read about the fiber, not personal observation.

*To date I have only a jacket made of a Schofield & Smith cloth from their Palm Beach bunch that is 15 % mohair, as well as 40 % wool, 30 % silk and 15 % linen.
I don't have experience with that specific cloth, but I have a 60/40 wool-mohair suit. It does have a slight sheen. I think of it as an evening suit for going to bars and restaurants. There's something very appealing about how mohair looks under that kind of dim lighting.
 

The Chai

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I don't have experience with that specific cloth, but I have a 60/40 wool-mohair suit. It does have a slight sheen. I think of it as an evening suit for going to bars and restaurants. There's something very appealing about how mohair looks under that kind of dim lighting.
Second this! I think the only color mohair which looks good in the day is light grey
 

samtalkstyle

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The three ply stuff is really scratchy, possesses a rough hand (kind of Ike a gunny sack cross sandpaper and has zero give. Don’t mind the scratchy part (Though you might), love the rough hand but I would probably get it cut slightly bigger in hindsight. Of all my suits it’s the three ply mohair stuff I have had to alter the most over the last five years. You could probably get a fully lined summer blazer of some sort or a nice 2 piece db or a sbpl. I think the db and the 1b sbpl are the best suit/jacket design treatment for mohair. If you are looking for something with texture this is the one for you.
The stand even kid mohairs from the carnival bunch is very nice too! Much much softer, less scratchy and slightly more stretch. The Cape Town kid mohair stuff is the exact opposite. Slightly tougher...again zero give and has that rat pack look. I personally prefer the carnival bunch. Probably go for sbpl or a db with these cloths. Both have some slight slubs. Think of it like linen suiting but with anti crease properties.
If you can get the old Taylor and lodge stuff they are good. If you want a dinner jacket the Bateman and Ogden mohair barathea is the best mohair blend I have encountered so far. Great drape, not scratchy at all and not rat pack shiny. Don’t like the dormeuil super brio. Have one tonik which is scratchy af as a summer suit that gives me rashes whenever I wear it. What is your intention with it? I can go all day about mohair.
Second the Standeven Carnival thumbs up. Really nice stuff.
 

AVG

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Dear all,

I am writing to you in search of some advice. I would like to order a green coat of about 550gr/m and I was thinking about the Loden that Cacciopoli do, that was by the way also used in one of the coats described in permanent style: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/01/loden-top-coat-from-vergallo.html

Do you have any experience with this cloth? Or perhaps any suggestion of another warm green to use?

Thank you in advance. Best regards,

AVG
 

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