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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Concordia

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Missed that one. Oh, well.

Looks like a LL birdseye. I have my own jacket made from that. Sleeves probably not mismatched!
 

Despos

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Really. And I am not glad to highlight it!

Have you seen the image with the sleeve attached? The direction of the barleycorn in the garment's torso points downwards, whereas in the sleeve it points upwards!

I think this is a very unfortunate thing to pass by, and a gross mistake by any tailor delivering a bespoke garment.

Cheers,

Dimitris
This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.
 

FlyingHorker

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This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.
Hmm where are the pictures? I can't seem to find this mismatched barleycorn.
 

Bespoke DJP

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This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.

Sure!

As far as the cutter's carelessness is concerned, this should never happen because he/she does have a professional duty of care.

In the second case (shortage of cloth), at first instance it is the client's mistake (assuming a CMT deal) to deliver a fabric short of the required-by-the-garment length, but he could be advised by the tailor during the bespoke process to order an extra length; not a big deal!

Best,

Dimitris
 
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FlyingHorker

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Impatience and procrastination from life lead me to scrolling through M&E's instagram...and I found this! This looks to be the exact same coat that was hanging off a dummy that I was looking to duplicate.


I do wonder how my own pattern matching will end up regarding this cloth. It looks like the raglan sleeve intersecting with the shoulder area is tough to nail.

The coat below on the right being a much more obvious example on how this can look disastrous

 

Wren

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Sure!

As far as the cutter's carelessness is concerned, this should never happen because he/she does have a professional duty of care.

In the second case (shortage of cloth), at first instance it is the client's mistake (assuming a CMT deal) to deliver a fabric short of the required-by-the-garment length, but he could be advised by the tailor during the bespoke process to order an extra length; not a big deal!

Best,

Dimitris
Unfortunately it happens quite often. Here is another example, this time on the pockets:

 

Bespoke DJP

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Yes, I absolutely agree!

Not only is the flap-in-sight sewn upside down, but more to that, it is not even vertically aligned with the rows of the PoW above and below the pockets! This has proved to be a challenging (and troublesome!) part of this particular jacket because just above the flaps - due to the darts - the vertical rows of the PoW have been trimmed to three from four.

I am no tailor, but in a layman approach I would have pre-estimated the position of the dart with the use of the client's personal pattern, and I would have probably selected the void area between the vertical parts of the PoW if other harmonies were not disturbed; there, the above-underlined problem caused by the darts would have been avoided.

Best,

Dimitris
 

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