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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dan'l

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For anyone who has been following my upcoming Balmacaan-ish coat, any tips before I go to my tailor tomorrow and what to ask? He generally claims to make anything, but I'm uncertain as to his skill of his making a raglan coat and pattern matching.

I wonder if there is any point in asking for a muslin fit first.

FWIW, he has made me great trousers in the past, a safari jacket, shortened the collar of a blazer(collar gap alteration), and narrowed the shoulders of an overcoat. All with great results.

@dieworkwear
@Despos
@Bespoke DJP
@konstantis
I've had quite a few overcoats made over the years and never had a muslin fit first. Overcoats are made similar to suit coats, so you should have basted, forward and final fittings. There should be sufficient margin to get it to work.

With that said, raglan sleeves can be tricky. When I asked one of my tailors to make my raglan coat, he pulled out his pattern book and showed me how he intended to cut it. It turned out fine. But at that point he had made lots of stuff for me already and I fully trusted his abilities.

On the other hand, I've been working with another maker for a raglan sleeve rain coat. They made a toile mock-up and all, but in the end it didn't pan out, so I abandoned the idea and went with a set-in sleeve. I'm quite disappointed with that, since I really wanted it to work out.
 

dan'l

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Hey all! Specific search question.

I'm looking for a brown dominant gunclub, preferably with a burgundy or red element or crosscheck. In the 9.5-12 oz range.

Was looking through a bunch of Loro books as well as some Gladson and the Fox website and couldn't quite find anything.

Worsted Alsport 2 had some stuff close.

If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
Have you checked out Caccioppoli?

For example:
 

Bespoke DJP

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For anyone who has been following my upcoming Balmacaan-ish coat, any tips before I go to my tailor tomorrow and what to ask? He generally claims to make anything, but I'm uncertain as to his skill of his making a raglan coat and pattern matching.

I wonder if there is any point in asking for a muslin fit first.

Dear @FlyingHorker,

I totally feel you and comprehend your insecurities concerning this project!

Just few generic - I am afraid - thoughts:

- I have a long-standing aversion to such statements as the above in bold; he knows of course that you can never bullet proof this "claim", only the hard way.

- Has your tailor shown you any pictures of bespoke Balmacaan overcoats that he personally has completed? Recent work is what you need, it might be quite informative too; excuse me for being blunt, but I don't think that you would be thrilled if his last made balmacaan was like 20-25 years ago!

- A muslin / toile is a good idea, still, it will roughly demonstrate you that he has a "connection" with the make-up, not that he possesses the actual skills to work optimally with the fabric, and perform as expected in intricate construction elements as the raglan sleeves are, as well as in aesthetically necessary elements as pattern matching is.

- Finally, although your eagerness to make use of this beautiful fabric that you just acquired is more than understandable, once you wrote above and I quote: "I'm uncertain as to his skill...", I can only advise you to have more than one pre-decided project-breaking points, before you totally commit yourself. I most certainly believe that your singular starting point should be trust; if at any early stage (before he cuts the fabric) you have the feeling that you don't trust him that he would efficiently perform his professional task, you should abort the project with him.

Please, do keep us informed.

Best,

Dimitris
 

aristoi bcn

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Debating between the one in the picture and the lighter one at 300g (both Joshua Ellis). I wish they did something in the 350-420g range which imo the is ideal weight for a woollen cashmere.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Is this too heavy for a sportcoat or it is just fine?

View attachment 1470218

Dear @aristoi bcn,

As you are very well aware, this is an overcoating fabric, and as such it falls in the known to us theme: "overcoating fabric to be used for Sport Coats", so in general it depends on the climate of the area to be used, in tandem with your taste & tolerance to cold.

One point of warning though; from your picture I can see that there is a fair nap in the fabric, and in this case, if I were you, I wouldn't consider it for the said purpose. The nap - in my books - is a clear distinguishing feature of an overcoating fabric and it begs (the fabric) to be used as such!

That said, do you have a picture of the 300grams fabric's swatch that you are also contemplating?

Best,

Dimitris
 

aristoi bcn

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Dear @aristoi bcn,

As you are very well aware, this is an overcoating fabric, and as such it falls in the known to us theme: "overcoating fabric to be used for Sport Coats", so in general it depends on the climate of the area to be used, in tandem with your taste & tolerance to cold.

One point of warning though; from your picture I can see that there is a fair nap in the fabric, and in this case, if I were you, I wouldn't consider it for the said purpose. The nap - in my books - is a clear distinguishing feature of an overcoating fabric and it begs (the fabric) to be used as such!

That said, do you have a picture of the 300grams fabric's swatch that you are also contemplating?

Best,

Dimitris
Thanks for your comments Dimitris.

I don't have a picture of the 300g but I think it also has a slight nap. Both are plain weave.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Thanks for your comments Dimitris.

I don't have a picture of the 300g but I think it also has a slight nap. Both are plain weave.

You are very welcome!

Out of sheer coincidence I perused the Joshua Ellis site the other day and I found their 100% cashmere jacketing cloth at 300grams. They seem to have a pretty nice collection with a very fine assortment of herringbone ones among them: there 15 colors with 6 shades of brown taking the cake!

Do you know if they sell swatches?

Best,

Dimitris
 

aristoi bcn

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You are very welcome!

Out of sheer coincidence I perused the Joshua Ellis site the other day and I found their 100% cashmere jacketing cloth at 300grams. They seem to have a pretty nice collection with a very fine assortment of herringbone ones among them: there 15 colors with 6 shades of brown taking the cake!

Do you know if they sell swatches?

Best,

Dimitris
Yes, they have a very good selection of classic designs. Wider selection than Johnston's. I got my swatches long time ago from HFW and I don't know if they do send them out directly sorry. They sell direct part of their range so my assumption would be that they do.
 

acapaca

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This may be a touch out of the usual for this thread, but I couldn't think of anywhere better to ask. Might any of you know where I could source a fabric similar to this one in the Scott Fraser collection? It's described as 'cross weave' Irish linen. I'm interested in anything 'super gauzy', if you will, to end up as a sort of shirt jacket. Thanks if you can help!


ScottFraserLinen.PNG
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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This may be a touch out of the usual for this thread, but I couldn't think of anywhere better to ask. Might any of you know where I could source a fabric similar to this one in the Scott Fraser collection? It's described as 'cross weave' Irish linen. I'm interested in anything 'super gauzy', if you will, to end up as a sort of shirt jacket. Thanks if you can help!


View attachment 1470311
I've seen that at Asian markets

5422797-asian-pears-all-wrapped-up-for-protection.jpg
 

Simon A

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This may be a touch out of the usual for this thread, but I couldn't think of anywhere better to ask. Might any of you know where I could source a fabric similar to this one in the Scott Fraser collection? It's described as 'cross weave' Irish linen. I'm interested in anything 'super gauzy', if you will, to end up as a sort of shirt jacket. Thanks if you can help!

John England Linen may have something like that in pure linen, or in a blend with hemp

 

ValidusLA

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Have you checked out Caccioppoli?

For example:
That Caccioppoli F/W jackets bunch actually looks to have a number of winners. Not sure my tailor ever brings them in, will have to see if I can get him to.

They don't sell direct I assume?
 

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