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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dan'l

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Haha, so true. But I meant more of a sticky highlighting typical recommendations vs. a Cliff Notes of what we discuss in here. I suppose it is highly subjective, though.
 

dan'l

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BTW, I totally expect that you have an Excel file of ref. numbers squirreled away somewhere, Derek.

In the past, I ordered lots of swatches, combining through them and planning several commissions in advance. But I‘m getting tired (or lazy) about it and just wondering how you guys all keep track. For example, I‘m thinking of going for a linen suit for next spring/summer and distinctly remember it was discussed here before. But can’t remember if the general consensus was to go for Ulster, W. Bill, Drapers, or something else. See what I mean?
 

dieworkwear

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BTW, I totally expect that you have an Excel file of ref. numbers squirreled away somewhere, Derek.

In the past, I ordered lots of swatches, combining through them and planning several commissions in advance. But I‘m getting tired (or lazy) about it and just wondering how you guys all keep track. For example, I‘m thinking of going for a linen suit for next spring/summer and distinctly remember it was discussed here before. But can’t remember if the general consensus was to go for Ulster, W. Bill, Drapers, or something else. See what I mean?
I kind of just keep it in my head, combined with going for whatever is convenient.

I happen to prefer British linen over Italian linen, as I find it slightly tigher woven. I find Italian linen can sometimes look very messy, whereas British linen tends to look sharper.

Given that, I go for W. Bill linen because it's what my tailors have access to. I don't really want to go through the trouble of sourcing my own linen. So I order swatches from my tailor or the respective Harrisons rep.

I do keep somewhat of a running tab of what I'd like to get commissioned in the future. That's basically my Unfunded Liabilities pile, along with whatever is in my head. Or sometimes I'll just flip through books.

I don't know. I agree it can be very confusing sometimes, but also fun to discover cloths. If you're looking for something specific, I would just ask in this thread. It's not that fast moving of a thread and I don't think anyone minds the chit chat.
 

classicalthunde

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I think I brought this up before, but is there some way to catalog the contents of this thread? It is one of my favorites and I‘ve followed it for years. However, at over 2000 pages, I don‘t remember everything. It‘s often the case that I‘m looking for a specific cloth recommendation months after a similar discussion has played out and I feel sheepish repeating the question.

So, what do you guys do? Do you use the search function to search through everything or do you bookmark specific posts? Or do you do the baller thing and keep an Excel file of recommended cloths with ref. numbers??
I have a google drive folder that I keep swatches images from this thread and others that I’m interested in...I’ll throw the idea and book and ref number in the title of the image (i.e. “blazer despos rec cape horn 667055” or “winter blazer Harrison moonbeam 35020”). I keep another album of outfits and jacket styles that I like

I also have a spread sheet with my intended commissions and notes on it, planned out a couple of years in advance and will plug in/update/revise fabrics and ideas over time. Its a bit much but it helps me temper my impulses and make sure that an idea I had 2 years ago is still something I want today. Got the idea
from a story about Slash I once read where he said he would draw potential tattoos on himself everyday for a year before deciding if he really wanted it And making it permanent
 
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Mr. Pink

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I ordered an overcoat in that one. Unfortunately, it arrived without lapped seams so it's getting fixed. When it's back, I'll post a pic.
Receive the Drapers coat back today. As you can see, the herringbone isn't visible unless you're within two or three feet. Otherwise the fabric looks like a mottled grey/black tweed.


 

dan'l

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I happen to prefer British linen over Italian linen, as I find it slightly tigher woven. I find Italian linen can sometimes look very messy, whereas British linen tends to look sharper.

Given that, I go for W. Bill linen because it's what my tailors have access to. I don't really want to go through the trouble of sourcing my own linen. So I order swatches from my tailor or the respective Harrisons rep.
This is what I mean - for some reason I had Drapers in mind, but it was actually Dugdale that I was thinking about, after seeing Simon post this:

53A4FD2D-2F57-4DD7-9B89-F4011093BE63.jpeg


I distinctly recall a discussion a few months back about Dugdale. I‘ll also check out W.Bill, since I have an account with them. Thanks.

I do keep somewhat of a running tab of what I'd like to get commissioned in the future. That's basically my Unfunded Liabilities pile, along with whatever is in my head. Or sometimes I'll just flip through books.
Sort of my system as well.
 

dan'l

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I have a google drive folder that I keep swatches images from this thread and others that I’m interested in...I’ll throw the idea and book and ref number in the title of the image (i.e. “blazer despos rec cape horn 667055” or “winter blazer Harrison moonbeam 35020”). I keep another album of outfits and jacket styles that I like

I also have a spread sheet with my intended commissions and notes on it, planned out a couple of years in advance and will plug in/update/revise fabrics and ideas over time. Its a bit much but it helps me temper my impulses and make sure that an idea I had 2 years ago is still something I want today. Got the idea
from a story about Slash I once read where he said he would draw potential tattoos on himself everyday for a year before deciding if he really wanted it And making it permanent
Yeah, I used to save various images, but it got out of hand.

I have a spread sheet for past commissions but it‘s a good idea to use them to plan ahead, too. Thanks!

I seems like a lot of us are planning our wardrobe a few years ahead!
 

sensuki

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Dugdale Natural elements is pretty nice, 280g but pretty tightly woven compared to Brisbane Moss (350g) and Baird McNutt (~340g?), the trousers I have in those are lined and as a result wears warmer and looks cleaner than both.

edit: forgot that they were in fact lined.
 
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Bespoke DJP

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Gear Gentlemen,

Actually, Dugdale Natural Elements is Spence Bryson/Ulster Weavers re-branded, as the former is just a merchant, whereas the latter is a producer. Earlier in this year there were certain very informative swatches' comparisons in this thread proving that; same held true with W. Bill linen.

Just save images & keep respective notes.

Cheers,

Dimitris
 

dieworkwear

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It might be the case that Ulster makes for this or that merchant but I've noticed there are some colours that are exclusive to such merchants.
Very likely, and why I think the constant comparison/ mill sniffing/ factory sniffing sometimes devolves into a kind of reductionism. Sometimes people assume that everything is just rebadged, and a factory or mill is just pumping out the same product. So if you find out a mill made X and Y, then X and Y must be comparable. Which is not always the case.
 

sensuki

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I know a local manufacturer that said the cost of Brisbane Moss linen was $x but they also offer custom dye lots, not sure what the minimum number of rolls was but the price was double the standard price, probably inclusive of the R&D required to get the color to the specification.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear Gentlemen,

Things are not black or white, no one said - or implied - that these merchants all they do is re-brand! These are not region or country representatives / authorized dealers of the mills, where all they would have to do is marketing & sales for the respective mill that they represent; these companies have a distinct corporate identity and they are trying to promote their own brand following their own business model.

Take Caccioppoli as an example: not long time ago, almost all suiting and some jacketing fabrics were either VBC or Loro Piana, the price difference spoke for itself and many of these fabrics had the mill's selvedge as well! Most staple worsted suiting fabrics in navy and grey fell into this category and some "generic" wool, wool-mix jacketing fabrics too.

It goes without saying, that the said Co. could not confine itself to that; other suiting fabrics offered were explicitly and exclusively manufactured for them because they had to differentiate themselves (Re: Solaro-type offerings, etc). This was even more pronounced in the jacketing fabrics' area, because there is the big game and the opportunity to make a presence in the market, and so they did (especially with the SS w-s-l offerings).

If these companies don't use such commercial tactics, what really is their "raison d'être"?

Best,

Dimitris
 

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