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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. GucciKid

    GucciKid Senior member

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    I just had a jacket made up in the Taransay, and I can tell you that I am 95% sure that the "Nut Brown" fabric that the Harris Tweed Shop sells is the same cloth. I know it doesn't look like it from the swatches on the website, but I have held swatches of both and they are indistinguishable from each other. The Nut Brown may be a touch heavier, but I am quite sure they are the same pattern.
     


  2. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    More on the weave than the weight. 13 oz open weaves in wool will be cooler than 10 oz twill in wool, especially in dry conditions with a breeze. 'Course, you also need to consider color (retains or blocks sunlight).
     


  3. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Did you get those backwards? As I understand it, the more tightly woven fabrics like cavalry twill will drape better and smoother, but will be hotter, than a more open weave of greater weight. The more open weaves unfortunately rumple and ripple more. I could be wrong though, textile science can be really complex and the people in the know are hard to find.
     


  4. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    If you're wrong, Svenn, then so are most of the tailors who post on internet clothing fora. Well put.

    Color and coarseness also matter. I forgot to mention that a smooth fabric will wear cooler than a coarse, spongy, or lofty fabric, all else equal. This is why tweed wears hotter than cavalry twill, even though cavalry twill is probably a tighter twill than a tweed.
     


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, but isn't cavalry twill generally lighter in weight than tweed?
     


  6. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Also, I'm not sure open-weave cloths crease more easily. Fresco actually resists creasing quite well.
     


  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    (double post deleted, apologies)
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2012


  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    These days, no. Cavalry twills usually start at 15 oz, and go up from there to 32 oz (like H. E. Box's) or beyond. 20 oz cavalry is quite common. 13 oz tweed is easy to find these days, and I'd bet most tweed coats made today are in the 13-16 oz range.
     


  9. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Below, the jacket on the left is a 21 oz cavalry twill of mine, from HK, the one on the right is a 18oz thornproof (tweed right?), from Steed (SR)... I think this pic demonstrates well the 'frumpiness' of open-weave fabrics, since there's litte waves and ripples across the thornproof that don't appear to be due to poor tailoring:

    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/ry1555/edityao.jpg

    Both are uncomfortably hot indoors ;)

    Testudo, do you know of any cavalry twills out there in the 15oz range that have heavy, pronounced twill lines? The one above from Huddersfield is a little too fine for me, I would like more texture.
     


  10. forex

    forex Senior member

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    ^^ Steed coat looks great, other one not so much.
    I have three suitings that I need to move, not wearing suits much due to change of jobs. Mid gray fresco 0511, Flannel 0328 and Sharkskin, all are Minnis and 4 meters. Please pm if you want any one of these.

    [​IMG]
     


  11. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    Thanks for that head's up

    it looks like it might be heavier - 19/20 oz vs 15 oz for the Taransay

    if I make up a coat, I can use that one for sure so thanks for the lead, and I would still love to find a stash of Taransay for a sportcoat or suit so...... if somebody has any Taransay left they'd be willing to sell (tailors? etc), please PM me and I'll make it worth your while :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2012


  12. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Hi,

    It's identical to the one that Will is offering, and I would say the color is pretty accurate...
     


  13. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    I have a mean calvary twill pant from Frank thats much heavier than almost all of my tweed.

    Forex, interested in swapping the grey flannel for a 2.25M length of lesser sportcoating?
     


  14. forex

    forex Senior member

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    What kind of sport coating is it?
     


  15. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    One is the teal blue with rust windowpane (4 ply), the other is a dark blue plaid (like a lambswool, nice and soft). i find myself in the opposite position as you, I'm either totally casual at work (no jacket or tie) or in a suit. Also looking for a nice solid navy flannel.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2012


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