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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

bdavro23

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Thank you, Dimitris. Yesterday I was indeed tempted to choose one of those (ref. 654019) but as far as I know this is about 240€/m, right? My other concern is also durability/behave under heavy rain conditions. Until expanding my current wardrobe I cannot count much on rotation. Do you have any experience with these Loro Piana?

Meantime, I found this beautiful Magee fabric (660 gr) at http://t-katsura.sakura.ne.jp/, but I didn't saw the reference of it. I just contact Magee to see if they still have it in stock. I guess that I will need about 2.5m. What do you think?

Best wishes,

AVG

View attachment 1466353
I dont know that I have ever seen a ragland sleeved, double breasted coat, but I could be mistaken. In any case, 2.5 meters is probably not enough for an overcoat. Ragland sleeves require more cloth than typical construction, as does double breasted over single. I cant stress how important it is to talk with whomever is going to make this for you before trying to order cloth. Better yet, just let your tailor order it for you.
 
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FlyingHorker

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I dont know that I have ever seen a ragland sleeved, double breasted coat, but I could be mistaken. In any case, 2.5 meters is probably not enough for an overcoat. Ragland sleeves require more cloth than typical construction, as does double breasted over single. I cant stress how important it is to talk with whomever is going to make this for you before trying to order cloth. Better yet, just let your tailor order it for you.
Here are some

 

FlyingHorker

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@bdavro23 no problem. B&Tailor's instagram is a black hole where an hour can go by and I won't even notice. Full of great inspiration and modern looking coats.
 

Stanacle

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I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.
 

FlyingHorker

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I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.
Based on my lurking their instagram, it seems to be a marketing statement.

They claim that the wool yarn doesn't have any chemicals or dyes applied to achieve the colour, and comes from the fleece of different sheep.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.
Undyed wool is just the natural color of the sheep. Depending on the design, I find undyed wool fabrics have a really nice, earthy, slightly variegated color. But since it's undyed, it can only come in certain colors (often various shades of brown)
 

Bespoke DJP

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I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.

Dear @Stanacle,

Our fellows' clarifications on the "undyed British wool" subject are very useful indeed!

Should you wish to peruse a comprehensive undyed wool fabrics' line, let me remind you that the Loro Piana "Pecora Nera" line is exclusively based on this procedure:


Cheers,

Dimitris
 

Concordia

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If you like undyed wool, Ardalanish tweeds have a nice selection. Very rustic.
 

Wren

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For anyone who is interested, I just received my length of Edmorel's Zegna navy pure silk. It's a muted light navy. It has a dry handle. No sheen at all. It also has a decent amount of drape considering the weight.

This photo is the best out of those I have taken, in terms of colour representation.

2020-09-29 14.57.34.jpg
 

dan'l

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That looks great! Thanks for posting. It looks nothing like the blueberry suit Derek was implying!!

What are you planning to have made? Suit or sport coat?
 

Wren

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Yeah it did look very bright and saturated on the photos. I actually asked Ed about the colour and he sent me another photo taken in natural light, and that photo was much better.

I'm going for a 3 roll 2 notch lapel sport coat, only because I personally prefer trousers made with cloth that is at least 10oz. I think it will work well as a suit.
 

Noirkw

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Anyone can advise/point me in the direction on where to purchase some HS crispaire online? Thankyou
 

Concordia

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For anyone who is interested, I just received my length of Edmorel's Zegna navy pure silk. It's a muted light navy. It has a dry handle. No sheen at all. It also has a decent amount of drape considering the weight.

This photo is the best out of those I have taken, in terms of colour representation.

View attachment 1467465
Still for sale? Where is the post on that?
 

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