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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

aristoi bcn

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Some close-ups of my most recent unfunded liabilities. They are all intended to be made into neapolitan spotcoats with side patch pockets, barchetta chest pocket and spalla camicia. Maybe the shepherd's check also with chest patch pocket. Maybe ye olde tailor will decide on that.

Navy honeycomb 100% cashmere by Loro Piana allegedlly for Karl Lagerfeld's brand.

Grey donegal 100% cashmere by Johnston's of Elgin stock supported range.

Dark brown with dark olive green undertones textured 100% cashmere made in England for Chester Barrie.

Off-white and black shepherd's check 50% lambswool 50% cashmere by Joshua Ellis.

View attachment 1465738View attachment 1465743

View attachment 1465736
Hahaha I'm so bad uploading pictures. Thinking about buying the lamp but it has the same price as a bespoke jacket.
 

Marshak

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Hahaha I'm so bad uploading pictures. Thinking about buying the lamp but it has the same price as a bespoke jacket.
It's a very classic art deco model. Indeed you could find it around 1200/1500 euros few years ago in Paris. Don't fund the shepherd check and buy it.
 

aristoi bcn

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It's a very classic art deco model. Indeed you could find it around 1200/1500 euros few years ago in Paris. Don't fund the shepherd check and buy it.
Louis Poulsen is the brand of the lamp, based on a 1925 design of a non so well known designer.

The scale of the checks on the shepherd's are a bit bigger than what you normally find in these kind of jacketing designs but not overly so. LL has done some jacketings (I recall the Agnelli POW) which are sensibly bigger in terms of scale. The Fox POW and houndstooth jacketings have a bigger pattern, too.
 

konstantis

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Opening the package for the first time put a grin on my face. This fabric feels like what you'd expect for tweed as konstantis mentioned: stretchy, spongey, hairy, scratchy, and THICK. This has some serious heft to it.

Turns out, 4m is a lot more than I thought. This is a verified horse blanket. I couldn't get the entire length in one picture.


My tailor said he only needed 3.5m, I only just realized I probably could've requested 3.5 instead of 4 unfortunately.

Still though, I'm having trouble imagining how an entire 3.5m of this stuff is required to make one coat.
Do you like the fabric ?
 

SpaceFunk

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Hi everyone, my post got lost amongst another discussion. Just wondering what kind of fabric this is? I know the post says "flannel suit" but theres not much more I can tell apart from it being grey herringbone from afar and up close having specks of blue and orange.

I really like the fabric, could someone point me in the right direction in terms of companies to look for that might have something like this in their fabric collections?

Thanks

FB_IMG_1601174415368.jpg


FB_IMG_1601174421753.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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Hi everyone, my post got lost amongst another discussion. Just wondering what kind of fabric this is? I know the post says "flannel suit" but theres not much more I can tell apart from it being grey herringbone from afar and up close having specks of blue and orange.

I really like the fabric, could someone point me in the right direction in terms of companies to look for that might have something like this in their fabric collections?

Thanks

View attachment 1466168

View attachment 1466167

Looks like a worsted tweed to me.

Try John G. Hardy’s Worsted Alsport (available through Huddersfield Fine Worsted and Gladson) or Porter & Harding's Glorious Twelfth (available through Harrisons of Edinburgh)
 

AVG

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(Re-state from a previous message that was located at the wrong place)

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am planning to order a new (possibly double breasted) raglan coat and I was wondering if you could give me some advice. The weather here (Norway) is quite rainy/cold, so I was looking for something around 650 gr in blue herringbone, preferably a donegal, soft but durable for "daily" use.

In attachment you will find an example of the color and pattern that I am looking for. If anyone knows which one is this fabric, please let me know. All suggestions and advices are obviously more than welcome.

Best regards,

AVG

Photo credit: Fabio la Mantia/Sartoria Panico

Captura de pantalla 2020-09-26 a las 18.31.38.png
 

aristoi bcn

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(Re-state from a previous message that was located at the wrong place)

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am planning to order a new (possibly double breasted) raglan coat and I was wondering if you could give me some advice. The weather here (Norway) is quite rainy/cold, so I was looking for something around 650 gr in blue herringbone, preferably a donegal, soft but durable for "daily" use.

In attachment you will find an example of the color and pattern that I am looking for. If anyone knows which one is this fabric, please let me know. All suggestions and advices are obviously more than welcome.

Best regards,

AVG

Photo credit: Fabio la Mantia/Sartoria Panico

View attachment 1466248
Have a look at Magee, Molloy&Sons and W.Bill coatings book.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @AVG,

The above are solid pointers, the British overcoating fabrics may offer variable alternatives for your project.

Should you wish a lighter overcoating fabric and contemplate an Italian provenance as well, Loro Piana has a 100%wool at 550grams, very close to the shade of blue with herringbone that you originally posted.

An image of it may be found here:


As always, compliments are in order for people in Hall Madden for their professional photography!

Best,

Dimitris
 

AVG

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Dear @AVG,

The above are solid pointers, the British overcoating fabrics may offer variable alternatives for your project.

Should you wish a lighter overcoating fabric and contemplate an Italian provenance as well, Loro Piana has a 100%wool at 550grams, very close to the shade of blue with herringbone that you originally posted.

An image of it may be found here:


As always, compliments are in order for people in Hall Madden for their professional photography!

Best,

Dimitris
Thank you, Dimitris. Yesterday I was indeed tempted to choose one of those (ref. 654019) but as far as I know this is about 240€/m, right? My other concern is also durability/behave under heavy rain conditions. Until expanding my current wardrobe I cannot count much on rotation. Do you have any experience with these Loro Piana?

Meantime, I found this beautiful Magee fabric (660 gr) at http://t-katsura.sakura.ne.jp/, but I didn't saw the reference of it. I just contact Magee to see if they still have it in stock. I guess that I will need about 2.5m. What do you think?

Best wishes,

AVG

2010.9.28-6.jpg
 

Bespoke DJP

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You are welcome!

Unfortunately I have never handled this particular LP fabric, certainly the brand's vast experience through the years will vouch for its quality! Still, I am afraid that I cannot offer any direct experience, and this is one of the reasons of the link, perhaps one of our fellows here might have something to contribute.

As I wrote above, Magee has very nice fabric propositions, your posted image above depicts handsomely the beauty of this fabric; I believe that the fabric might be one of the following two:



Finally, it's been cited numerous times in this thread, there are a lot of parameters affecting the required length! I urge you to request samples from Magee (or other maker / merchant) and after your final choice, consult with your tailor to determine the length to be bought.

Best,

Dimitris
 

classicalthunde

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(Re-state from a previous message that was located at the wrong place)

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am planning to order a new (possibly double breasted) raglan coat and I was wondering if you could give me some advice. The weather here (Norway) is quite rainy/cold, so I was looking for something around 650 gr in blue herringbone, preferably a donegal, soft but durable for "daily" use.

In attachment you will find an example of the color and pattern that I am looking for. If anyone knows which one is this fabric, please let me know. All suggestions and advices are obviously more than welcome.

Best regards,

AVG

Photo credit: Fabio la Mantia/Sartoria Panico

View attachment 1466248
I’m fairly certain Daniel Day Lewis’ similar blue raglan coat was made with a W. Bill donegal
 

AVG

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You are welcome!

Unfortunately I have never handled this particular LP fabric, certainly the brand's vast experience through the years will vouch for its quality! Still, I am afraid that I cannot offer any direct experience, and this is one of the reasons of the link, perhaps one of our fellows here might have something to contribute.

As I wrote above, Magee has very nice fabric propositions, your posted image above depicts handsomely the beauty of this fabric; I believe that the fabric might be one of the following two:



Finally, it's been cited numerous times in this thread, there are a lot of parameters affecting the required length! I urge you to request samples from Magee (or other maker / merchant) and after your final choice, consult with your tailor to determine the length to be bought.

Best,

Dimitris
Thank you, Dimitris. I am prone to think that the picture that I posted before is none of the fabrics that you mentioned (one seems to me as too dark, the other seems sort of greenish), but as soon as I got answer from Magee I will update you all.

Do you know if it is possible to request a complete bunch of samples? And if so, how much usually they do cost?

Regarding length, I previously discussed about how many meters we will need with my tailor. However, let's hope first that they have the fabric and then I will double check this important point on length requirements. I am still not totally sure about the kind of coat that I want to order. I was originally thinking about a full-length coat, but being so long plus double-chested will most probably be unbalanced. In attachment my original idea in a different fabric with some minor modifications (photo credit: LA www.lopezaragon1976mto.com).

All the best,

AVG

PRENDA-NUEVA-ENCERADA-VERDE_ppA.jpg
 
Last edited:

FlyingHorker

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(Re-state from a previous message that was located at the wrong place)

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am planning to order a new (possibly double breasted) raglan coat and I was wondering if you could give me some advice. The weather here (Norway) is quite rainy/cold, so I was looking for something around 650 gr in blue herringbone, preferably a donegal, soft but durable for "daily" use.

In attachment you will find an example of the color and pattern that I am looking for. If anyone knows which one is this fabric, please let me know. All suggestions and advices are obviously more than welcome.

Best regards,

AVG

Photo credit: Fabio la Mantia/Sartoria Panico

View attachment 1466248
This picture reminds me of why I wanted a darker blue tweed coat again.

At this rate, I'm going to end up with more coats than sports coats.
 

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