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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I once bought a safari jacket in a blue linen that's similar to the color of that raw silk. I found I rarely wore it. I think it's a hard color to wear, and I'd be cautious about doing a full suit. Although agree that blue is a particularly difficult color to photograph, so maybe it's not showing up accurately on my screen.

If I were to go for a "brighter" blue suit, I'd do one with a very cold shade of blue, like this photo below. Generally cautious of vivid, saturated colors.


tumblr_oa5x7xLQRl1qa2j8co1_1280.jpg
 

dan'l

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Don’t trust pictures on monitors to judge colors but the contrast of the navy ribbon against the cloth shows how bright and bold the actual color is. This shade of blue works well if you have a lot of red in your skin tone. Not as flattering if you don’t. Would wear this as a daytime suit but not really for dressy evening wear. There are exceptions for locale and formality of the event. Cloth looks like it will shift a lot when sewing. Ask your tailor how he liked working with this cloth after it is made!
Of course, would defer to lordsuperb’s opinion on this one.
Thanks, Chris. I also thought daytime suit, e.g. daytime wedding event. I'm a bit on the fence about it, especially since I am pale (I'm red only after being in the sun too long). My tailor is Italian and he's accustomed to lighter cloth, but I supposed the silk composition presents an additional challenge.

Color reminds me of the girl who ate the blueberry candy at Willy Wonka's chocolate factory
Haha, for some reason I thought I'd get one of these comments from you; my intuition was right. I bought your linen-silk summer tweed and had it made into a SC a few years back. It is very versatile and at times I regret not getting a suit length instead.
 

dan'l

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I have a suit in the older Minnis 0520 cloth and I consider it "light," whereas it is actually darker than the silk one I posted. So yeah, I tend to agree with you Derek that light blues are tough.

I just like the idea of a silk suit, though! Man after sleeping in silk PJs, it's hard to sleep in other fabrics.
 

FlyingHorker

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Well it feels good to know I'm not the only one who got a safari jacket in a terrible colour.

Mine stares at me every morning, mocking my poor decision.
 

Despos

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I have a suit in the older Minnis 0520 cloth and I consider it "light," whereas it is actually darker than the silk one I posted. So yeah, I tend to agree with you Derek that light blues are tough.

I just like the idea of a silk suit, though! Man after sleeping in silk PJs, it's hard to sleep in other fabrics.
My two favorite shades of dupioni silk are tan and a deep, dark brown. Very dark brown. Have had them both in my wardrobe. Don’t find as many shades or even makers of silk for suiting these days. Price per yard is very high now.
Silk is very difficult and challenging to sew. It shifts around in a stubborn way. Has absolutely no give.
 

dan'l

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The one I posted is Zegna. I think a gray silk with slubs would be nice, too.

You have a good point about it being challenging to sew. I need to ask my tailor what he thinks. Is it even possible to press the stuff? Does it keep a crease?
 

Despos

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The one I posted is Zegna. I think a gray silk with slubs would be nice, too.

You have a good point about it being challenging to sew. I need to ask my tailor what he thinks. Is it even possible to press the stuff? Does it keep a crease?
Dupioni keeps a crisp crease. The silk cloth you have is a different weave and I don’t know how it will behave.
Silk shines easily, have to press with a damp press cloth and very little pressure. Sheen is More evident in dark colors
 

dan'l

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I see, thank you.

I was trying to visual a brown silk cloth and came across this one from Drake's:



The fabric looks nice and I can see the appeal of a brown silk, though the one you had in your wardrobe was much darker, I guess.
 

FlyingHorker

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FWIW, I did get my Yorkshirefabric samples today for overcoats, I ordered them some time in early August.

So it seems like you will get what you ordered, but you won't get any communication, tracking info, and timeliness for shipping.

That's good news at least considering their selection is enormous.

Lovat is a nice colour

 

Despos

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I see, thank you.

I was trying to visual a brown silk cloth and came across this one from Drake's:



The fabric looks nice and I can see the appeal of a brown silk, though the one you had in your wardrobe was much darker, I guess.
That's a great color for a jacket. Really like that jacket.
The silk was as dark as these trousers if these trousers are brown. Not sure if you can find this color in silk today. I had the same dark color in wool/mohair blend as a DB. Had two of them because the trouser split like mohair tends to do. so, made another one.
 

Concordia

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What do you guys think of this cloth?



It is 100% silk and I'd get it made up into a suit for special occasions (weddings, events, that sort of thing - not for the office). I'm wondering if the color is a bit too bright for my intended purpose, though. Any thoughts? @lordsuperb, I'm hoping to get your feedback on this!
Almost certainly too aggressive for a suit, but could perhaps work as a summer jacket, tailored soft.
 

Mr. Six

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Has anyone found photos online of the Marling & Evans Natural jacketing book? I appreciate their recently increased social media presence, but I’d like to be able to look at some of the options that they haven’t highlighted (and have already bothered my tailor enough for other swatches 😂).
 

Crispyj

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Has anyone found photos online of the Marling & Evans Natural jacketing book? I appreciate their recently increased social media presence, but I’d like to be able to look at some of the options that they haven’t highlighted (and have already bothered my tailor enough for other swatches 😂).
You can email them and they'll send you a Dropbox link. Can try through this link.
 

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